best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
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best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
Installed some new step studs; three all together. I have one stud (outside rear on right bank) that is half covered/ won't line up on the right bank. I've got another set of manifolds, so not worried about McGuyvering these. That metal is hard! I've using round bastard files, and a cobalt drill bit and have made very little progress. Any suggestions?
I'm surprised it's so far off to be honest....there wasn't that much metal when I drilled the tap hole, and you'd think the original hole would have guided the bit straight.
My other thought is to take out the stud that is lining up (not a step stud IIRC), install the manifold, then reinstall the stud with the hopes that everything lines up once it's all nestled in place.
I'm surprised it's so far off to be honest....there wasn't that much metal when I drilled the tap hole, and you'd think the original hole would have guided the bit straight.
My other thought is to take out the stud that is lining up (not a step stud IIRC), install the manifold, then reinstall the stud with the hopes that everything lines up once it's all nestled in place.
1976 VW Bus aka tripod
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
hambone wrote: There are those out there with no other aim but to bunch panties. It's like arguing with a pretzel.
- drober23
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
My guess is if you remove the other stud you will still be off. But, it is a low risk proposition.
A bit late for the suggestion of having the manifold bolted in place and using it as your guide to drill the hole for tapping.
A bit late for the suggestion of having the manifold bolted in place and using it as your guide to drill the hole for tapping.
DJ
'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe
(plus more busses than sense)
In a time of chimpanzees I was a monkey
'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe
(plus more busses than sense)
In a time of chimpanzees I was a monkey
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
Oops.
1976 VW Bus aka tripod
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
hambone wrote: There are those out there with no other aim but to bunch panties. It's like arguing with a pretzel.
- tommu
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
Are these F-pipes? I took all my bolt holes up a size using a drill press and some Milwaukee drill bits. I also needed to bend them a little with a floor jack to fit. Any chance that the studs are in the right place but your manifold has twisted a little?
- drober23
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
Not Troll, but I think they are. Pretty sure he has the '75-'78 style manifold/u-tube/heat exchanger setup.
DJ
'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe
(plus more busses than sense)
In a time of chimpanzees I was a monkey
'75 Westfalia, '79 Deluxe
(plus more busses than sense)
In a time of chimpanzees I was a monkey
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
My biggest concern is that I used red Loctite put the studs in. Will make it a wee bit difficult to take them out. Order some ez loc inserts the other day. Plan is to heat up the offending stud and hopefully the red Loctite will break free and then I will use the manifold as a guide to drill a new hole for the easy lock insert . Will let you know how it goes
1976 VW Bus aka tripod
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
hambone wrote: There are those out there with no other aim but to bunch panties. It's like arguing with a pretzel.
- sgkent
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
the pipes warp with use. It is common with exhaust manifolds where the ends move towards each other over time. The usual fix is build a spreader tool of some kind, heat the manifold to expand it until it fits then when it cools file the flanges parallel with either a large belt sander or a big mill file. A spreader could be a couple pieces of all thread with a nut at one end filed curved so it doesn't slide off the manifold, and a special threaded portion in between that moves the pieces of all thread apart. Then heat the area one wants to bend with a torch. Don't melt the brazing on the flanges.
The other solution if they are close is to drill out the holes a little. This is less preferred but quicker. The step thread area has a pocket behind it so there isn't as much bite there as one might think.
Mark (BusDaddy elsewhere) suggested heating the pipe with a torch or Mapp gas and using a scissors jack to spread the tubes a little. Be careful to not break the flanges free or crack the welds. Check the tops for flatness afterwards.
The other solution if they are close is to drill out the holes a little. This is less preferred but quicker. The step thread area has a pocket behind it so there isn't as much bite there as one might think.
Mark (BusDaddy elsewhere) suggested heating the pipe with a torch or Mapp gas and using a scissors jack to spread the tubes a little. Be careful to not break the flanges free or crack the welds. Check the tops for flatness afterwards.
TBone208 wrote: "You ppl are such windbags. Go use your crystal ball to get rich & predict something meaningful. Nobody knows what's going to happen. How are we supposed to take ppl who don't know the definition of a recession & "woman" seriously?"
Merlin The Wrench
Merlin The Wrench
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
I used a dash of everyone's suggestions....including my own. :) Yes, the exhaust manifolds were drilled out (that was two weekends ago), and as SGKent suggested, used my scissor jack to stretch the manifold just a wee bit. I also removed the (properly oriented) stud (with no red loc-tite), managed to get the exhaust manifold on, and the stud threaded back in.
However, the stud that was slightly askance, was askanced inward enough that I did not have enough clearance to get a socket on to tighten down the nut. . tightened it a fair amount with a open end wrench and channel locks. Fired it up, and, dang it, exhaust leak. So I said to my self, "Self, how are we going to get this torqued down to spec's?" Had a bunch of random sockets left by the PO of the house, found a 1/2 inch 12 point, ground it down skinny like, but couldn't get it to fit right, and it scuffed up the top edge of the nut. So went back to the socket pile, found a 6 point, ground it down, and although I had clearance, did not want to clear over the buggered top edge of the nut. So I said fark it, lined it up, and tapped it on with a ball pein hammer, and low and behold got it torqued down to the right specs. Still have an exhaust leak though.
I know there are folks out there that are cringing at this, but remember, both of these heads are toast, not even good for cores (broken exhaust stud boss on one, insert in spark plug hole that has a death grip on the spark plug on the other). Engine cost me $250 and it runs awesome other than the exhaust leaks, and I've put 20k on it (and who knows how many miles on the death grip plug). Part of this is just to see how far I can take it before I have to finally replace the heads....the other part is I wanted to at least get it through a couple of camping trips this season (maybe next your too?).
Cheers,
Mike
However, the stud that was slightly askance, was askanced inward enough that I did not have enough clearance to get a socket on to tighten down the nut. . tightened it a fair amount with a open end wrench and channel locks. Fired it up, and, dang it, exhaust leak. So I said to my self, "Self, how are we going to get this torqued down to spec's?" Had a bunch of random sockets left by the PO of the house, found a 1/2 inch 12 point, ground it down skinny like, but couldn't get it to fit right, and it scuffed up the top edge of the nut. So went back to the socket pile, found a 6 point, ground it down, and although I had clearance, did not want to clear over the buggered top edge of the nut. So I said fark it, lined it up, and tapped it on with a ball pein hammer, and low and behold got it torqued down to the right specs. Still have an exhaust leak though.
I know there are folks out there that are cringing at this, but remember, both of these heads are toast, not even good for cores (broken exhaust stud boss on one, insert in spark plug hole that has a death grip on the spark plug on the other). Engine cost me $250 and it runs awesome other than the exhaust leaks, and I've put 20k on it (and who knows how many miles on the death grip plug). Part of this is just to see how far I can take it before I have to finally replace the heads....the other part is I wanted to at least get it through a couple of camping trips this season (maybe next your too?).
Cheers,
Mike
1976 VW Bus aka tripod
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
hambone wrote: There are those out there with no other aim but to bunch panties. It's like arguing with a pretzel.
- sgkent
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
did you heat the copper rings to 900 F temp to soften first as described by Richard Atwell? http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Exhaust.html
TBone208 wrote: "You ppl are such windbags. Go use your crystal ball to get rich & predict something meaningful. Nobody knows what's going to happen. How are we supposed to take ppl who don't know the definition of a recession & "woman" seriously?"
Merlin The Wrench
Merlin The Wrench
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
I confess that I did not. I Did not expect perfection, but it is leaking more than I thought it would. As it probably took me all told about 10-12 hours to McGyver everything back together....and I know I need new heads anyways...really not keen on taking it all back apart. I do have 3 more functional studs, however, it does leak more (at least the right bank...left bank that is missing a stud actually sounds a bit quieter). Goal is to take it on a couple of short (500 miles round trip) camping trips this year...and maybe get one more season out of it (I only put maybe 1500 miles a year).sgkent wrote: ↑Wed Jul 19, 2017 5:16 pmdid you heat the copper rings to 900 F temp to soften first as described by Richard Atwell? http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Exhaust.html
So the exhaust is more soundly attached..but the exhaust leaks a little more...hoping after everything takes a bit of a set, and after I re-torque everything, she may get a bit quieter.
1976 VW Bus aka tripod
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
hambone wrote: There are those out there with no other aim but to bunch panties. It's like arguing with a pretzel.
- wdollie6
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
During my first visit with Colin last year when we fought the carbs and the distributor he easily ascertained that I had not done the heat treat of the copper rings as I had multiple exhaust leaks, worse I never even replaced the originals. In this case he somehow used the leak to help dial in the engine... of course he did . Once he left, since the engine was still not in the bus, I precariously balanced the engine off of my solid bottom stand, removed the old exhaust ovals, and followed the Ratwell procedure with my new ones, made an amazing difference with regards to ability to seal.
As I am learning (the hard way of course), shortcuts are just that, short term time savers. long term work creators. Last night I rebuilt a squealing wiper assembly, per Collin's procedure (partly), slapped it in and behold wipers that were cleaning my lights. After rereading the procedure and looking in Bentley I now know that there is a method to ensure that the wiper parks in the right place. Pulled out the wiper assembly set it per Bentley (+ or - 5 deg. to the motor axis) and reinstalled, all should be great, not a chance. Turned out that the arm had to be exactly opposite of where Bentley indicated, read that section three times to make sure I wasn't missing anything. After the third install finally have excellent, quiet working wipers...
Moral of the story... not sure.
As I am learning (the hard way of course), shortcuts are just that, short term time savers. long term work creators. Last night I rebuilt a squealing wiper assembly, per Collin's procedure (partly), slapped it in and behold wipers that were cleaning my lights. After rereading the procedure and looking in Bentley I now know that there is a method to ensure that the wiper parks in the right place. Pulled out the wiper assembly set it per Bentley (+ or - 5 deg. to the motor axis) and reinstalled, all should be great, not a chance. Turned out that the arm had to be exactly opposite of where Bentley indicated, read that section three times to make sure I wasn't missing anything. After the third install finally have excellent, quiet working wipers...
Moral of the story... not sure.
1972 Superbeetle Convertible
1972 Westy Bus
1972 Beetle
1970 Fastback
1966 6V Beetle with Sunroof
1972 Westy Bus
1972 Beetle
1970 Fastback
1966 6V Beetle with Sunroof
- asiab3
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
Do your cylinder heads have the "air injection ports" accessed from above with their M10x1.0 plugs in place? It will sound like an exhaust leak that gets slightly quieter when you close the deck lid hatch. I've been bitten by those before……
Robbie
Robbie
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145k miles with me.
322k miles on Earth.
145k miles with me.
322k miles on Earth.
- Amskeptic
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
So, after the scissor jack spread, did you re-bastard file the pipe ends parallel?
Yes, we want and can achieve a leak-free exhaust.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
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Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
I filed before, but not after spreading. It's bugging me enough, that yes, I will take the right manifold off, if...and that is a big if... I can extract the 9MM step stud that I put in with red loc tite. If not, it will most likely accelerate getting new heads. Regardless, it is going to make the 300 mile round trip camping trip this weekend the way it is. I need a solid half day to tinker with it, won't have that until after next weekend.
1976 VW Bus aka tripod
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
FI ...not leaky, and not so noisy...and she runs awesome!
hambone wrote: There are those out there with no other aim but to bunch panties. It's like arguing with a pretzel.
- sgkent
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Re: best way to wallow out hole on exhaust manifold
the studs should not come out when you remove it. Only the nuts need to come off. Why you are missing a stud I don't quite understand. Enjoy your trip. you can use a piece of fuel line to listen for where the exhaust leak actually is before you start pulling things off.
TBone208 wrote: "You ppl are such windbags. Go use your crystal ball to get rich & predict something meaningful. Nobody knows what's going to happen. How are we supposed to take ppl who don't know the definition of a recession & "woman" seriously?"
Merlin The Wrench
Merlin The Wrench