front wheel shimmy
- ruckman101
- Lord God King Bwana
- Location: Up next to a volcano.
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front wheel shimmy
Ok, so it feels like the passenger side front wheel shimmy/shakes at about 40 mph on the Ghia. Otherwise I don't notice anything slower or faster. What should I look for?
neal
neal
The slipper has no teeth.
- Randy in Maine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Old Orchard Beach, Maine
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- ruckman101
- Lord God King Bwana
- Location: Up next to a volcano.
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- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
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Mud ( or whatever ) on the inside of the rim? I would try rotating. I seem to recall someone having this issue and it was a sign of failure for that tire. The tread coming loose or some sort. At any rate, it would be good to isolate if it is the tire/rim or something else.ruckman101 wrote:Balanced with the mounting of the new tires a year ago. Maybe I have lost a weight.
neal
- hambone
- Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
- Location: Portland, Ore.
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What about wheel bearing adjustment? Too loose can cause wobblies.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat
- ruckman101
- Lord God King Bwana
- Location: Up next to a volcano.
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Well, had the balance checked today, and wheels are balanced just fine. Worn tie-rod ends are causing the shimmy. The worst is on the driver's side, even though the shimmy feels like it's the passenger side wheel.
The guy at the tire shop explained how to measure my toe-in after I get them replaced. They look easy enough to replace.
neal
The guy at the tire shop explained how to measure my toe-in after I get them replaced. They look easy enough to replace.
neal
The slipper has no teeth.
- ruckman101
- Lord God King Bwana
- Location: Up next to a volcano.
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- RSorak 71Westy
- IAC Addict!
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A pickle fork is not required to get the tie rod end outta the steering knuckle, just a nice hammer. Hit the steering knuckle where the tapered shaft from tie rod goes through it. The force should distort the hole for a milisec and allow the tie rod to pop free. This trick DOES work I've used it many times.....It has the advantage of never tearing up the rubber boots too.
Take care,
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.
- ruckman101
- Lord God King Bwana
- Location: Up next to a volcano.
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Yah, New territory for me again. Ya mean I don't just undo that bottom nut and pop it off of there, then thread it out of the tie rod? I better take a look at my Bentley.
So picked up the new ones this morning, was encouraged to see the box, Meyle Products, Germany. Then I noticed a small sticker on the side, "Made in Turkey".
Thanks Gypsy, the plan is to tackle on my approaching weekend. Ya gonna be at the homefront Sunday morning? Maybe I could swing by and grab that fork hanging. Saturday morning would work on this end, too.
neal
So picked up the new ones this morning, was encouraged to see the box, Meyle Products, Germany. Then I noticed a small sticker on the side, "Made in Turkey".
Thanks Gypsy, the plan is to tackle on my approaching weekend. Ya gonna be at the homefront Sunday morning? Maybe I could swing by and grab that fork hanging. Saturday morning would work on this end, too.
neal
The slipper has no teeth.
- RSorak 71Westy
- IAC Addict!
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Yes loosen the bottom nut a few turns but leave it on to protect the threads in case you miss with the hammer. (Not that it matters as the threads are going to be replaced.) But just loosening the nut will not allow anything to come loose. The tapered part of the tie rod end will not easily come out of the steering knuckle. Hence the need for a trick or a pickle fork.
Take care,
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.
- ruckman101
- Lord God King Bwana
- Location: Up next to a volcano.
- Contact:
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Ok, so got the tie-rod ends in, but have a bit to do still. According to our tape measure, the toe-in is at 1/16 of an inch. But, loosening the lock nut on the inner side of the passenger tie-rod, to adjust both sides, was elusive. No wrench, tight space. So it was all adjusted by turning the driver side tie-rod. Going to have to go back I suspect, as the steering wheel is wonky now. Initially the toe-in was over an inch. Three threads tighter, six total, got us to 1/16 of an inch.
And the boots are torn on the ball joints, so gotta hit the tears with a glob of grease.
I think I'm on the right track. Pickle forks were available here on the mountain, and the old ones came off without too much of a fight.
neal
And the boots are torn on the ball joints, so gotta hit the tears with a glob of grease.
I think I'm on the right track. Pickle forks were available here on the mountain, and the old ones came off without too much of a fight.
neal
The slipper has no teeth.