Midwest, yes.Lanval wrote:As always, the west is the best. Don't let Colin and these other guys pull the (l)east coast wool over your eyes.
L
aircooledchris; if it was an early-westy mustard vinyl stool I might take you up on that!
Midwest, yes.Lanval wrote:As always, the west is the best. Don't let Colin and these other guys pull the (l)east coast wool over your eyes.
L
Lanval wrote:Kris,
Get thee to Pacific City, OR for this: http://www.yourlittlebeachtown.com/pelican
There is nothing better than what that guy makes. FWIW, his first professional brewing experience came from a brewery in, I believe, Appleton, WI.
As always, the west is the best. Don't let Colin and these other guys pull the (l)east coast wool over your eyes.
L
We tipped back a few Amber's that I had on tap from Capital Brewery in Madison when he was here in June...sounds like the sampling has continued across the country, can't stop now.airkooledchris wrote: I'll spare Colin from any beer gatherings if he's already burnt out on it.
I am "fostering a gut"? Fostering a gut? I am not fostering a gut.whc03grady wrote:And finally, my blog post. Photo credit to CK.
http://www.ludwigandgertie.com/2015/07/ ... und-8.html
The new one came, it doesn't have the pinch clamp thing that the old one does; it has a big flat hex nut instead. I'm not sure if they're equivalent. Also, how do I determine the length to start it at? I'm afraid the details of June 24th's pre-briefing have markedly faded in my mind.Amskeptic wrote:HEY MITCH . . . . update?
The "big flat hex nut" is called a jam nut; it's similar to the "locking" nuts found on some dual carb linkages and it uses the same principle as "double nutting" to remove a stud. The nut locks against an object, and the clamping force of the nut makes the object unable to turn down the threads. It's cheaper to manufacture than a clamp, which is why it's on your new part and not the original...whc03grady wrote:The new one came, it doesn't have the pinch clamp thing that the old one does; it has a big flat hex nut instead. I'm not sure if they're equivalent. Also, how do I determine the length to start it at? I'm afraid the details of June 24th's pre-briefing has markedly faded in my mind.Amskeptic wrote:HEY MITCH . . . . update?
. . . just bring the new one down and install the back end into the relay lever. Now thread out the steering box end until it slips into the pitman arm. New sockets are stiff, so you will need to work the spindle to be properly aligned to see if you have the length correct. Use grease on the spindle and only lightly secure ot. Test drive. Is steering wheel cocked all crazy? If cocked right, shorten one turn. If cocked left, lengthen one turn.asiab3 wrote: The "big flat hex nut" is called a jam nut;
For starting length, there might be a more "official" method, but I start by removing the old one without allowing the steering, suspension, or tires to move. You should be able to put it back in without touching anything. So you know the car is set up correctly. From here . . .
I keep the tires on the ground right? I line up that tab on the steering box, right?asiab3 and Amskeptic wrote: The "big flat hex nut" is called a jam nut;
For starting length, there might be a more "official" method, but I start by removing the old one without allowing the steering, suspension, or tires to move. You should be able to put it back in without touching anything. So you know the car is set up correctly. From here . . .
. . . just bring the new one down and install the back end into the relay lever. Now thread out the steering box end until it slips into the pitman arm. New sockets are stiff, so you will need to work the spindle to be properly aligned to see if you have the length correct. Use grease on the spindle and only lightly secure ot. Test drive. Is steering wheel cocked all crazy? If cocked right, shorten one turn. If cocked left, lengthen one turn.
PM sent. If nothing else we can have a beer?lilpig88 wrote:I'll be around the area in a week or so (bozeman, but I can mosey over the pass).
Let me know if you want help!
Sure, just drive the car straight to a stop. You don't even have to line up the little tab IF everything is already centered. You just make a note of where the spokes are, then LEAVE THEM ALONE, this job is about getting the new drag link installed without moving anything while you work. You could install it with the wheels half turned left or right, it doesn't matter. Just try to get the new drag link in without disturbing where the wheels and the steering wheel were when you dropped the old one.whc03grady wrote:I keep the tires on the ground right? I line up that tab on the steering box, right?asiab3 and Amskeptic wrote: The "big flat hex nut" is called a jam nut;
For starting length, there might be a more "official" method, but I start by removing the old one without allowing the steering, suspension, or tires to move. You should be able to put it back in without touching anything. So you know the car is set up correctly. From here . . .
. . . just bring the new one down and install the back end into the relay lever. Now thread out the steering box end until it slips into the pitman arm. New sockets are stiff, so you will need to work the spindle to be properly aligned to see if you have the length correct. Use grease on the spindle and only lightly secure ot. Test drive. Is steering wheel cocked all crazy? If cocked right, shorten one turn. If cocked left, lengthen one turn.
Right on, lilpig88! Bringing the precious lilpiglet?whc03grady wrote:PM sent. If nothing else we can have a beer?lilpig88 wrote:I'll be around the area in a week or so (bozeman, but I can mosey over the pass).
Let me know if you want help!
Excellent! Good for you guys. Sounds like you know how to adventure. You are keeping the legend going into the next generation, that girl is going to grow up with VW in her hard wiring.lilpig88 wrote:Yep!
Piglet and all!
The bus seems to be perfectly designed to lull a newborn to sleep with it's engine nearly under the rear seat...she loves it...so far!