Colin schools the Professor ~ Updated with links to VC pix
Posted: Wed Aug 06, 2008 10:49 pm
Well Colin was spot on time, and after some theory, we got to work. First up:
I pulled the van across to park in a cleaner spot, and we took off the cover and started looking around. Colin pulled the top of the distributor off, and asked to look at a couple of things while he was getting some tools. I couldn't find the front of the rotor (with the copper? piece in it)... because the copper piece had broken off...
This was the first of many signs that the work done on my newly rebuilt engine (less than 1500 miles from the install) was, shall we say, less than satisfactory.
So we need a new rotor, but we'll get after lunch. Next up: setting the hydraulic lifters and checking the valve covers and VC gaskets.
Passenger side came off, the VC was beat up and bent, so Colin straightened it, and I put it on. Driver's side comes off and I look at the gasket.
Now, I had taken the Van back to the engine builder after a week because of a heavy leak from the driver's side VC ~ so what did I see when it came off in my hands... the cork gasket had been installed with a none to neat layer of RTV or some such crap
Colin cleans that VC while I set the lifters, and he installs the VC. Lunch, and acquire the Bosch rotor at Carquest. They gave me a cheap American made substitute that looked suspiciously like the DOA rotor I was replacing. Colin asked them to check for a Bosch ~ they brought the correct Bosch rotor out at $4 less than the crappy substitute. Add in some German VC gaskets that were thicker than the cheapie cork gaskets installed by the engine builder and we're off.
Install the rotor, check the VC. The passenger side I installed is leaky, Colin re-installs with new gasket, no leaks. I do the driver's side with new gasket it leaks... Colin shows me how to get the bale on w/o moving the VC.
So now let's look at timing. Hmmm. My new engine is running at 10 deg ATDC... WTF? No problem ~ Colin shows me how to set the timing at idle, checking the vacuum advance and making sure the vacuum advance is working.
With the official Itinerant Air-Cooled timing marks painted on, setting the time is a breeze, and now the van is running better. But not good enough.
Out comes the carb cleaner, and Colin shows me the various spots I can check. A few possibilities, but nothing dramatic enough to suggest that the change is from carb cleaner and not just the engine idling a bit faster than slower on its own. That is until he finds a vacuum leak... wait for it...
on the #2 intake manifold at the head. By now I realize my $1500 for the rebuild was money down the rabbit hole, and my $400 for the IAC expert is the best money I've spent on this van since I bought it.
So now I'm filing the face of the intake to flatten it out ~ meanwhile we scout around my parts box (from the PO) and get some gaskets for the intake manifold, because the old thin gasket came apart when we tried to remove it. Put it all back together with some sealant and hope that the head isn't warped.
Then it's on to the AFM. You will not be surpised to discover the engine is running lean. But you might be surprised to discover that the AFM is already set to max rich setting (on the top portion ~ not the black disk held by the spring). Why would this be? Why is the screw adjustment for air flow on the AFM ALL THE WAY IN? So we work through the AFM. It's clearly running lean, and so the settings are adjusted to find a happy medium.
Now it's time for a test run. I was complaining about high temps going uphill, so how about a run up Newport Coast Road. It's off for a drive, with Colin behind the wheel. He gives me his instructions on driving to maximize clutch life and take it easy on the shifting system AND the engine. Then it's up the hill. At 45 mph, the engine hit's a max of 430 with engine oil temp in 110 deg C. range.
Then I get behind the wheel. Holy Moly! Is this even the same engine? All kinds of power (well in VW stock air-cooled terms), firm, even response, it's like a different van ~ a new engine, with power, etc. But what's the smoke?
The darn driver's side VC is peeing oil... um, the one I put on. Colin removes the VC and checks the gasket and the seating. This VC is a bit bent up too, and the AMC head isn't the cleanest casting you ever saw... maybe there's a problem with the fit? In getting the VC to sit on and get the bale (a lousy, lousy job to do when the engine/heater box is hot) Colin begins to suspect that the VC isn't the greatest, but he gets it on, with a few burn marks I think, and off we go.
We return to our starting spot. The heater box looks too wet to be sure the VC isn't still leaking, though if it is, it's a small fraction of what was coming out before. Doesn't matter as I now know how to deal with this problem. New VC's coming up, and I'll put them on ~ no worries.
Oh, BTW, I forgot to mention that the driver's side heater box was hotter than blue blazes? Could it be because my engine rebuilder, when he had the engine apart, didn't bother fixing the flaps (which are broken on the driver's side) or installing the switch and cable for the flaps? I thought that was odd at the time, but accepted their answer (you don't need it down here where it's warm.. uh, OK); should've trusted my instincts (after a rebuild the engine should be 100% stock).
All in all it was an exceptional 10 hours, and flew by. I can't remember being more satisfied with having spent money. Colin is an excellent teacher, in terms of his understanding of the subject, his ability to communicate that understanding with exceptional clarity and his insistence on using theory as a prep to hands on experience.
Again, a tip o' the hat to Randy in Maine for suggesting getting in contact with Colin here at the IAC ~ Randy, you're welcome by my fire anytime.
And I'm now thinking about next year... heh, heh, heh. (Note to self, courtesy of Colin ~ that transmission looked like heck, and shuddering clutches are not to be tolerated... nor non-functioning window washers.... plenty of work to do before I wax and polish the engine compartment...)
Best,
Lanval
I pulled the van across to park in a cleaner spot, and we took off the cover and started looking around. Colin pulled the top of the distributor off, and asked to look at a couple of things while he was getting some tools. I couldn't find the front of the rotor (with the copper? piece in it)... because the copper piece had broken off...
This was the first of many signs that the work done on my newly rebuilt engine (less than 1500 miles from the install) was, shall we say, less than satisfactory.
So we need a new rotor, but we'll get after lunch. Next up: setting the hydraulic lifters and checking the valve covers and VC gaskets.
Passenger side came off, the VC was beat up and bent, so Colin straightened it, and I put it on. Driver's side comes off and I look at the gasket.
Now, I had taken the Van back to the engine builder after a week because of a heavy leak from the driver's side VC ~ so what did I see when it came off in my hands... the cork gasket had been installed with a none to neat layer of RTV or some such crap
Colin cleans that VC while I set the lifters, and he installs the VC. Lunch, and acquire the Bosch rotor at Carquest. They gave me a cheap American made substitute that looked suspiciously like the DOA rotor I was replacing. Colin asked them to check for a Bosch ~ they brought the correct Bosch rotor out at $4 less than the crappy substitute. Add in some German VC gaskets that were thicker than the cheapie cork gaskets installed by the engine builder and we're off.
Install the rotor, check the VC. The passenger side I installed is leaky, Colin re-installs with new gasket, no leaks. I do the driver's side with new gasket it leaks... Colin shows me how to get the bale on w/o moving the VC.
So now let's look at timing. Hmmm. My new engine is running at 10 deg ATDC... WTF? No problem ~ Colin shows me how to set the timing at idle, checking the vacuum advance and making sure the vacuum advance is working.
With the official Itinerant Air-Cooled timing marks painted on, setting the time is a breeze, and now the van is running better. But not good enough.
Out comes the carb cleaner, and Colin shows me the various spots I can check. A few possibilities, but nothing dramatic enough to suggest that the change is from carb cleaner and not just the engine idling a bit faster than slower on its own. That is until he finds a vacuum leak... wait for it...
on the #2 intake manifold at the head. By now I realize my $1500 for the rebuild was money down the rabbit hole, and my $400 for the IAC expert is the best money I've spent on this van since I bought it.
So now I'm filing the face of the intake to flatten it out ~ meanwhile we scout around my parts box (from the PO) and get some gaskets for the intake manifold, because the old thin gasket came apart when we tried to remove it. Put it all back together with some sealant and hope that the head isn't warped.
Then it's on to the AFM. You will not be surpised to discover the engine is running lean. But you might be surprised to discover that the AFM is already set to max rich setting (on the top portion ~ not the black disk held by the spring). Why would this be? Why is the screw adjustment for air flow on the AFM ALL THE WAY IN? So we work through the AFM. It's clearly running lean, and so the settings are adjusted to find a happy medium.
Now it's time for a test run. I was complaining about high temps going uphill, so how about a run up Newport Coast Road. It's off for a drive, with Colin behind the wheel. He gives me his instructions on driving to maximize clutch life and take it easy on the shifting system AND the engine. Then it's up the hill. At 45 mph, the engine hit's a max of 430 with engine oil temp in 110 deg C. range.
Then I get behind the wheel. Holy Moly! Is this even the same engine? All kinds of power (well in VW stock air-cooled terms), firm, even response, it's like a different van ~ a new engine, with power, etc. But what's the smoke?
The darn driver's side VC is peeing oil... um, the one I put on. Colin removes the VC and checks the gasket and the seating. This VC is a bit bent up too, and the AMC head isn't the cleanest casting you ever saw... maybe there's a problem with the fit? In getting the VC to sit on and get the bale (a lousy, lousy job to do when the engine/heater box is hot) Colin begins to suspect that the VC isn't the greatest, but he gets it on, with a few burn marks I think, and off we go.
We return to our starting spot. The heater box looks too wet to be sure the VC isn't still leaking, though if it is, it's a small fraction of what was coming out before. Doesn't matter as I now know how to deal with this problem. New VC's coming up, and I'll put them on ~ no worries.
Oh, BTW, I forgot to mention that the driver's side heater box was hotter than blue blazes? Could it be because my engine rebuilder, when he had the engine apart, didn't bother fixing the flaps (which are broken on the driver's side) or installing the switch and cable for the flaps? I thought that was odd at the time, but accepted their answer (you don't need it down here where it's warm.. uh, OK); should've trusted my instincts (after a rebuild the engine should be 100% stock).
All in all it was an exceptional 10 hours, and flew by. I can't remember being more satisfied with having spent money. Colin is an excellent teacher, in terms of his understanding of the subject, his ability to communicate that understanding with exceptional clarity and his insistence on using theory as a prep to hands on experience.
Again, a tip o' the hat to Randy in Maine for suggesting getting in contact with Colin here at the IAC ~ Randy, you're welcome by my fire anytime.
And I'm now thinking about next year... heh, heh, heh. (Note to self, courtesy of Colin ~ that transmission looked like heck, and shuddering clutches are not to be tolerated... nor non-functioning window washers.... plenty of work to do before I wax and polish the engine compartment...)
Best,
Lanval