Gas Pedal Sticking
- Manfred
- Old School!
- Location: Chicago
- Status: Offline
Gas Pedal Sticking
So my 1978 bus gas pedal will stick a bit and give me a high idle. I have a new accelerator cable. I assume that its just old and warn and needs some TLC. I know its sticking because when I pull up on the pedal the idle returns to normal.
Where should I start?
Thanks!
Where should I start?
Thanks!
- satchmo
- Old School!
- Location: Crosby, MN
- Status: Offline
Are you sure it's not just due to cold weather? Sometimes a little water can get in the tube for the accelerator cable and cause it to stick when it freezes. Some folks put a lot of grease on the cable when installing, thinking this will keep the moisture out, and then the grease gets sticky in cold weather too. Your answer will come when the weather warms up.
You should also check to be sure the spring that sits at the pivot of the accelerator pedal is not broken. If it is, the pedal has a hard time coming all the way up. Ice and rust in the pivot can make a difference too.
However, a new cable is cheap and not hard to put in. I would try to spray some WD40 into the cable tube and work the old cable in and out a bunch to see what's in there and what rusty/greasy crud you can get out. I have heard you should just oil rather than grease a new accel. cable because the grease gets stiff in cold temps (see first paragraph).
Tim
You should also check to be sure the spring that sits at the pivot of the accelerator pedal is not broken. If it is, the pedal has a hard time coming all the way up. Ice and rust in the pivot can make a difference too.
However, a new cable is cheap and not hard to put in. I would try to spray some WD40 into the cable tube and work the old cable in and out a bunch to see what's in there and what rusty/greasy crud you can get out. I have heard you should just oil rather than grease a new accel. cable because the grease gets stiff in cold temps (see first paragraph).
Tim
By three methods we may learn wisdom:
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius
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- IAC Addict!
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Oil is all I use. Penetrant in the winter. It revitalizes all the old grease. You still have FI? There is also a return spring from the throttle linkage to a hole on the intake plenum toward the back end of the engine. You can shorten up the spring to give more tension. My bus still does it.Not as bad as yours sounds.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- Manfred
- Old School!
- Location: Chicago
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- airkooledchris
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Eureka, California
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that's what mine ended up being when mine would stick. Shortened it up a bit and now it snaps back nicely.vdubyah73 wrote:There is also a return spring from the throttle linkage to a hole on the intake plenum toward the back end of the engine. You can shorten up the spring to give more tension..
1979 California Transporter
- tractoman
- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Sonoma, CA
- Status: Offline
- airkooledchris
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Eureka, California
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after some recent work where I had pulled the trans and reinstalled, the hole in the firewall where the cable comes through was putting a bit of pressure on it and causing it to hang up a bit.
massaging the firewall back into shape and getting the cable nice and tight/firm did once again fix the stuck pedal issue for me...
massaging the firewall back into shape and getting the cable nice and tight/firm did once again fix the stuck pedal issue for me...
1979 California Transporter
- Manfred
- Old School!
- Location: Chicago
- Status: Offline
Ok. I got a chance to mess with my cable over the past weekend. I increased the tension on the accelerator spring on the engine, which has helped the accelerator pedal action. I also noticed that once warm the engine did, in fact, idle too fast. Must have been up near 2k rpm.
I located the idle speed screw and lowered the idle. It seems to be running great now.
One question, however. The idle screw seemed very easy to move. It might have vibrated loose, causing the fast idle. Is the idle adjustment screw supposed to be that easy to move?
I located the idle speed screw and lowered the idle. It seems to be running great now.
One question, however. The idle screw seemed very easy to move. It might have vibrated loose, causing the fast idle. Is the idle adjustment screw supposed to be that easy to move?
- airkooledchris
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Eureka, California
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- Manfred
- Old School!
- Location: Chicago
- Status: Offline
- Manfred
- Old School!
- Location: Chicago
- Status: Offline
Broken record. Since the warm weather in Chicago, my accelerator cable problem has gotten worse.
I've been driving longer distances at highway speeds and the rpm will jump up between 2k and 3k when I disengage the clutch. When I tap the gas pedal, the rpms will drop, but just to tolerable level.
When i lift the pedal with my hand, the engine will return to normal idle setting.
I removed the pan that covers cable as it comes off the pedal. There seems to be a lot of tension when I pull the cable. I can barely move it. When I move the throttle directly from the engine, it moves freely. I would think if there was some binding it would be difficult to move.
My guess is that the cable is binding due to rust or something is pinching it some where the cable is routing.
I took a luck under the pedal and I didn't see any kind of spring. It seems like the way the cable is routed keeps the pedal up. I have a 78 bay.
I still haven't installed the new cable because I've had so many other things to fix.
Anyone have a clue here? Am I missing the spring? Did the PO reroute the cable because the spring broke.
My biggest fear is the cable will brake while I'm out driving because of all the tension that seems to be on it.
I've been driving longer distances at highway speeds and the rpm will jump up between 2k and 3k when I disengage the clutch. When I tap the gas pedal, the rpms will drop, but just to tolerable level.
When i lift the pedal with my hand, the engine will return to normal idle setting.
I removed the pan that covers cable as it comes off the pedal. There seems to be a lot of tension when I pull the cable. I can barely move it. When I move the throttle directly from the engine, it moves freely. I would think if there was some binding it would be difficult to move.
My guess is that the cable is binding due to rust or something is pinching it some where the cable is routing.
I took a luck under the pedal and I didn't see any kind of spring. It seems like the way the cable is routed keeps the pedal up. I have a 78 bay.
I still haven't installed the new cable because I've had so many other things to fix.
Anyone have a clue here? Am I missing the spring? Did the PO reroute the cable because the spring broke.
My biggest fear is the cable will brake while I'm out driving because of all the tension that seems to be on it.
- Ritter
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sonoma County, CA
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You need a spring under the pedal. Take a look at this one. It goes between the bottom of the pedal and the floor.
http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=J13009
Replace your accelerator cable soon. It is a pretty easy (15 minute) job and will make you smile.
http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=J13009
Replace your accelerator cable soon. It is a pretty easy (15 minute) job and will make you smile.
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
Manual or Automatic tranny? not much to put in here but there are differnet connections.
When it sticks can you pull it from the engine bay. Same resistance?
Are there any visible binding points?
I think a new cable may resolve but just throwing out idears.
When it sticks can you pull it from the engine bay. Same resistance?
Are there any visible binding points?
I think a new cable may resolve but just throwing out idears.
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- Manfred
- Old School!
- Location: Chicago
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It's a manual. I didn't track the cable back to the engine. I wasn't in the mood.
Thanks for spring picture. I'll double check and see if there is one there or not.
This is my next project. I hate the throttle sicking thing. It's driving me crazy, wasting gas, and probably wearing out my clutch.
Blurg!!!!!
Thanks for spring picture. I'll double check and see if there is one there or not.
This is my next project. I hate the throttle sicking thing. It's driving me crazy, wasting gas, and probably wearing out my clutch.
Blurg!!!!!
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- IAC Addict!
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