Weber sprung a leak on the right port

[turk]

I found the replacement for the wheel, just a whole Accelerator Cover: I'm starting the disassembly of the Weber IDF 40s:
This Gumout is nasty. I'm just hand washing some parts now piecemeal with rubber gloves of course.

[Sluggo]

Man! That's a dirty carb. Nice to see it's getting proper treatment. Good luck!

[turk]

They were leaking (at one gasket on the carb) after the bowls filled so I took them off and and I'm not going to use gasket sealant on the carbs and try again with fresh set of gaskets and check all flanges for any irregularities. It didn't start up. The float is at 10mm from the flange with the needle not compressed but hanging upside down. Empty is at 32 mm, per the book. I'm gonna have to re-check all that carefully. I think I will put new plugs and wires on too. It was cold out, and the gas has been sitting in the tank for 5 months.

[Amskeptic]

It was cold out, and the gas has been sitting in the tank for 5 months.

Gasoline loses its volatility from evaporation during an extended sit. It is especially lacking in volatility when you are attempting to use old summer blend gasoline in cold conditions.
Colin

[turk]

Thanks for that tip. I have some in a plastic container that's fresher. Maybe I'll mix that in as well.

[turk]

The good news is they aren't leaking gas now, but still won't start. The fuel pump (electric) still is sending fuel into both carbs, filling them up (too much) as soon as the ignition key is turned enough to engage the battery. Starter cranks, but engine won't turn. But the carbs are getting too much gas I think. I can see it with the air-filters off. I can hear it gurgling in the carbs. At least no leaks. It doesn't seem right the fuel pump just keeps filling the carbs automatically, even without pressing the gas pedal, but I dunno, I guess that's the way it is supposed to be. So, the quandary is, IS the gas that bad? I put about a half gallon or more in yesterday, (fresh gas). Well, I'm waiting for new plugs, wires, cap and distributor in the mail.

[chitwnvw]

Your floats should be turning off the input of gas to the carbs when the bowls fill up.

[turk]

Yeah. They're not apparently. I quit the attempts for a while while I consider taking them down and apart again. I thought I had the floats set per the manual -10 -10.5 mm and 32 mm. it seems like there's something wrong in there. Maybe the ball valve. But that doesn't seem right. I think maybe the floats are stuck. Or maybe a wire to the pump is loose.

[turk]

I took them off to inspect. I will check the fuel pressure regulator tomorrow. Here's what I saw on the carbs after I took them off. It's leaking, past the throttle plates into and around the manifold, and I assume into the crankcase so not good. It's on the ground under the engine. there's gas outside the bowl in those little holes on the bottom of this pic
the top gasket was wet with gas
this is the other one before taking the top off. You can see the gas pooling above the gasket

here it is after taking the top off
You can see the gasket is soaked.
So, my plan is order another gasket kit. Check the floats again. Check the needle and seat for sticking. Check the floats for any air-pockets in water. Change the oil. Check the fuel pump regulator. I will also change the plugs wires rotor and distributor and the fuel filters and lines. I hope the gas doesn't damage my cylinders rings or anything in the meantime.

[Amskeptic]

You can see the gasket is soaked.
So, my plan is order another gasket kit. Check the floats again. Check the needle and seat for sticking. Check the floats for any air-pockets in water. Change the oil. Check the fuel pump regulator. I will also change the plugs wires rotor and distributor and the fuel filters and lines. I hope the gas doesn't damage my cylinders rings or anything in the meantime.

I don't know if you need to replace the gasket set.

You can blow into the fuel inlets and move the floats manually to see if they shut off your air. Run the floats through a few finger cycles to help seat the needle valves.

I replaced fuel needle valves on the Road Warrior in 2001 and drained a good couple of gallons of gas into the crankcase overnight, because I did not start the engine immediately after finishing the installation of the carbs. The flooding was *not* because of defective needle valves. It was because I never got the float bowls properly filled to press the new needle valves closed. They worked fine for the next eight years and 170,000 miles.
Colin

[turk]

Thanks a lot! Looking at the gaskets I don't think replacement is absolutely necessary. So, how then did a couple gallons of gas drain into your crankcase from bowls that weren't all the way filled? Then, did you change your oil before starting the engine? The floats float in water fine. I'll check the needle to see how that closes the intake port by blowing into it.

[Amskeptic]

Thanks a lot! Looking at the gaskets I don't think replacement is absolutely necessary. So, how then did a couple gallons of gas drain into your crankcase from bowls that weren't all the way filled? Then, did you change your oil before starting the engine? The floats float in water fine. I'll check the needle to see how that closes the intake port by blowing into it.

With a full fuel tank slightly above the engine, gas will find its way. The bowls did fill all the way, then the fuel started dripping into the throats and down the intake manifolds. I had one open intake valve that filled that cylinder with gasoline that made its way past the rings into the crankcase.

I did not know of this drama until I tried to start the engine. It hydrostatically locked.
When I was investigating this "seized engine", the dipstick was reading several gallons too high.

Drained the oil all right. It was thinner than WD-40.
Colin

[turk]

Gotcha. I have the lines clamped with wrenches somewhat poorly. I should go take a look. What a mess. Thanks again.

[turk]

I just pulled the oil plug. Started out thin and turned almost to gas at the end. Maybe a gallon.

[chitwnvw]

Well, good save, Turk. A wise man knows when to cut his loses.

I seem to remember having my IDFs on the manifolds with the tops off adjusting the float levels, that would no brains way of making sure they are cutting off, although CKs blowing method is a good start.