72 Bus Left Heater Cable Stuck

[Drhallster]

When I bought my 72 bus the PO told me that the left heater cable to the flapper was broken and he hadn't been able to get an adequate repair. When I looked under there, I saw where he had tried to use plastic tie straps to connect the end of the cable to the flapper arm. I thought it would be a simple repair by just replacing things with the appropriate hardware; ie barrel clamps etc.
Now my problem is that the cable is stuck and totally non mobile in the metal tube that carries from the front of the bus to the back.
I have run my hand along the entire length of the tube and I can feel no holes or dings that would account for this. But that cable is STUCK. I have actually pulled hard enough to break the cable.
I am at a total loss as to how this could be anchored to tightly.
I would think that rust would be unlikely with multiple layers to the cable.
I hope someone else has run up against this and found a solution because I'm lost.

Steve

[Amskeptic]

I hope someone else has run up against this and found a solution because I'm lost.

These cables do rust solid in the tubes. The spiral sheath does ride through the tube. You will need to pull mightily to extricate the cable. When the sheath unravels as you pull, be glad. You will possibly end up 40 feet in front of the bus still pulling. You do not want the cable and the sheath to snap with remnants still inside the tube, so take it easy with twisting and stick to a more straight pulling.
"hey buddy! use a tow truck if you gotta drag that thing home!"

[Elwood]

Hi. I'm going through the same job myself on my '69. One cable is free and the other is totally frozen in the tube. I ordered two new cables from WW. They are different left and right for my year but are sheathed with some kind of plastic/rubber the whole length. My question is: "Are you pulling from the front of the bus or the rear to get it out?" I know I will have to use some sort of "Tow truck" application but Colin's post has me wondering?

Thanks for any tips,

Barb

[Amskeptic]

My question is are you pulling from the front of the bus or the rear to get it outr?

You will most likely disconnect and push the cables down from the instrument cluster to the belly pan area, then pull cables out of the undercar tubes from the front of the vehicle.
Colin

[Drhallster]

I tried pulling both ways. Just make sure to remove the nylon locking grommet type thing at the rear end of the under tube before pulling forward.
Steve

[Elwood]

Thank you Steve and Colin for the advice. It really makes it better to know what I'm tugging against before I start to disassemble the under dash levers. I got new/used ones from reglaser (Steve) with red and blue knobs. Mine were brittle and fell off long ago. It will be a grand day to have heat again I have to find out what to do with the two tubes that must go to the rear between the seats. Both are uncapped. Would they let heat escape?
Do you know if there was a hose to connect them?
Barb

[Amskeptic]

I have to find out what to do with the two tubes that must go to the rear between the seats. Both are uncapped. Would they let heat escape?
Do you know if there was a hose to connect them?
Barb

Yep, there were. Do you have the under seat heater outlets?
Colin

[Elwood]

Yes Colin, there is a vent between the walk through seats. When I got under there to analyze, I saw the tubes off the main one going to the vent with no connection between but scrapes of duct tape around edges. I really don't care if I have heat in the rear. As it is I would have to cap off the one on the main tube; but I would like it to be as close to original as possible. I have found no pictures or info on what was between those outlets.

[Amskeptic]

I really don't care if I have heat in the rear. As it is I would have to cap off the one on main tube, but I would like it to be as close to original as possible. I have found no pictures or info on what was between those outlets.

What about the owner's manual in your possession? It has a description of heater outlets and controls. Look also for pictures of under the car. Even pictures in the lubrication section for example, can have a great shot of the factory heater hoses. . . .
Colin

[Elwood]

Yes Colin I do have a '68 owners manual, thanks to you. I wil look at it again, but the years were changing on the early bays from splitty ways to our early ones. It's a can do thing by capping off but many things are hard to find. Never expected my '69 to be a show bus , just a working and driving fun bus. Thanks,Barb

[twinfalls]

PS Is there suppose to be a boot on the front end of the tube to prevent this?

On my 74, at the front end, under the belly pan: No boot. Here I filled in a good shot of bearing grease.
Boots , sleeves at the rear: I have a pic of all these parts in my TheSamba gallery. I filled the boot with bearing grease too.

I had the cable stuck in the tube. Pulling straight from the front of the tube, like Colin explained, gave me many yards of untwisted cable sheath. I was lucky to get it all, out. Then I ran a thin steel wire thru the tube, used it to run a thin rope, used that rope in a loop ( from rear to front of tube ) to "chimney sweep" the tube, adding knots on the rope and jamming, a liot of, bearing grease inside. This way I took out a lot of dirt and moisture from the tube. Then it was easy, at last, to pull in the new cable with the rope.

[Drhallster]

Hey TwinFalls,
Just curious what your cable looked loke when you got it out.
Where was the rust? Front of cable or rear? And did the rust go through the cable or just around it?

Thanks. Just trying to figure this out.
Steve

[Amskeptic]

I ran a thin steel wire thru the tube, used it to run a thin rope, used that rope in a loop ( from rear to front of tube ) to "chimney sweep" the tube.

Smart move, I'll try that next time.
Rust can be unbelievable in there Drhallster, years of road spray can permeate the cable sheath.

[vdubyah73]

Headliner bow chucked in a drill at slow rpm with lots of penetrating oil.

Bill

[twinfalls]

Hey TwinFalls,
Just curious what your cable looked loke when you got it out.
Where was the rust? Front of cable or rear? And did the rust go through the cable or just around it?

Thanks. Just trying to figure this out.
Steve

The inner wire had broken when pulled hard. This OG wire is teflon coated, at places the teflon was cut, and the wire rusty undernearth at the cut ( new wire , no coating; I like better ).
The outer sheath that untwisted had several short rusty areas.
The cable was stuck near the rear, because it finally got loose after most of the sheath had come out untwisting. This is why, I was carefull at the rear boots and seals, packing much grease in there. A few hours job, turned out to last few days, and I will spend more to remove asbestos at the accordion tubes, and hunt for all small leaks, and I should add insulation.
I enjoyed much a good warm air flow at the dashboard, until I got aware I have asbestos in the ducts.