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Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 9:20 am
by Velokid1
Thank you, fellas. So it's far less engineerical than I imagined. It's more tapemeasurical, it seems.

And see now... everyone in Free Speech probably thinks I'm bad at admitting that I know nothing, but I ain't afeard to expose my utter knownothingness!

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 10:41 am
by Sluggo
I have a Valucraft (bargain Autobone) in the Beetle (two years) and had one in the Bus for four years. Both are still great. 600cca.

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:30 pm
by DurocShark
I went with a WAY big battery. When it's -4* while trying to crank the thing over, I need all the amps I can get.

Image

I had to relocate the charcoal canister. I'm thinking about getting longer cables, putting the battery on the other side where there's more room and putting the stuff back on the passenger side.

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 1:16 pm
by Velokid1
Monster! There's a Checker and an AutoZone right across the street from work. Neither of them have a 42A. Neither do the websites. I don't know how you people find enjoyment in this stuff. :flower:

EDIT: I meant to type 42R and that's what I was looking for at the store.

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:14 pm
by dtrumbo
Ask if they have just a Group 42 instead of 'A'. Costco has 'em, the NAPA store by my house has 'em. They shouldn't be that hard to find.

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:35 pm
by hambone
My battery is apparently wired backwards, ground is by the engine lid. Well it hasn't bothered me yet.

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 4:42 pm
by Amskeptic
hambone wrote:My battery is apparently wired backwards, ground is by the engine lid. Well it hasn't bothered me yet.
All Type 1 buses had the positive towards the front of the car. VW came to understand that these cars brake harder than they accelerate, so they put the safer post forward.
:colors:

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:12 pm
by dtrumbo
Amskeptic wrote:
hambone wrote:My battery is apparently wired backwards, ground is by the engine lid. Well it hasn't bothered me yet.
All Type 1 buses had the positive towards the front of the car. VW came to understand that these cars brake harder than they accelerate, so they put the safer post forward.
:colors:
This is true. My '70 is like yours, Hammy and my '78 has the ground post forward. Yet another one of the subtle changes over the years.

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 6:42 pm
by midatlanticys
Velo, have a look here
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_e ... fault.aspx and see if there is an "all battery center" or a "platinum dealer" near you.

Re: Time For A New Battery!

Posted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 8:31 pm
by Hippie
Amskeptic wrote: I have had good luck with the local AutoZone Duralast for $59.95. It is now 5 going on 6 years old.
Ditto on the brand and age.

Posted: Sat Dec 12, 2009 8:44 pm
by Velokid1
Update: Checker does have a battery that works and it is indeed a 42-sumpinerudder. $79.99 with a 3 yr warranty, I believe. Only 500 cca but I was noticing that my Interstate battery that's been in the bus for years is only 400 cca. I have my old battery on a 36-hour trickle charge now. I sure would love to save $90 if I can. The battery sat dead in the bus for probably a year, then Colin and I quick-charged it, then it sat another year. Am I hoping against hope that the battery still has any life in it? Finally getting super excited about having her on the road again!

Posted: Sun Dec 13, 2009 3:55 am
by midatlanticys
Velo, if the Interstate has been dead a long time, maybe 36 hours is not enough time to bring it back from the abyss. Do you have a voltmeter to test the voltage being put in by the charger? <14 volts may not be enough. I also assume this is a *sealed* battery and you cannot check the acid level inside, right?

Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 10:28 am
by Velokid1
midatlanticys wrote:Velo, if the Interstate has been dead a long time, maybe 36 hours is not enough time to bring it back from the abyss. Do you have a voltmeter to test the voltage being put in by the charger? <14 volts may not be enough. I also assume this is a *sealed* battery and you cannot check the acid level inside, right?
Hoping you guys can help me determine whether my battery is likely dead, or possibly not:

It was on a trickle charge for 36 hours. When I took it off the charger and tested the voltage from the battery it started at 13.8V or so, then went down to 12.4V or so within an hour of sitting. Then, after sitting overnight, it's still right at 12.2-12.4V (very inexpensive voltmeter, I have).

Does that sound promising? Should I let it sit for 4-5 days and check again?

Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 11:06 am
by hambone
I'd only trust it locally at first, but if it seems to be holding a charge, it should still do so, but maybe just short term.
After my engine build last winter, my 7 year old battery held a charge and I was able to use it all year until fall when it finally had enough. An old battery is what it is.
If you haven't been using your bus, I'd not trust it yet until it gets it's creaky joints back in service. Sitting does strange things to mechkanincks. Short local trips until you get the confidence back up.
10 cents is still 10 cents.

Posted: Mon Dec 14, 2009 5:19 pm
by midatlanticys
Velokid1 wrote: . . . . . whether my battery is likely dead, or possibly not:

It was on a trickle charge for 36 hours. When I took it off the charger and tested the voltage from the battery it started at 13.8V or so, then went down to 12.4V or so within an hour of sitting. Then, after sitting overnight, it's still right at 12.2-12.4V . . . . . Does that sound promising?
Yes, there IS life in that old girl!! The 13.8v was reading latent charging voltage. A battery needs to *settle* for at least 6 hrs after the charger is disconnected, then you get a true voltage reading of the battery state. Your 12.2-12.4v is a battery with a 50%-75% charge. Hook up the charger for another 36 hours, let it settle, then measure the terminal voltage again. 12.65v is a fully charged lead-acid battery.