Re: again with the throwout bearing?!
Posted: Wed Apr 17, 2013 4:59 pm
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Tech and Community Help For Air-Cooled VWs
https://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/
https://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=11199
Can you plan your course of questioning here?chachi wrote:what if i didn't have the correct clutch cable? again, this is a six rib i'm trying to put in a '74, and it is clearly longer than the original five rib (i measure about a half inch). long enough so that in the bottom gears, 2, 4 and R, i'm physically hitting a crossbeam forward of the transmission with the shift coupling cage.
before i replaced the donut in the nose cone, i could, without the clutch, wrench it through its gears and get it into neutral. but now, seemingly, it won't go actually into neutral at all.
What is a "worn pressure plate" ?i will say that the pressure plate on this engine looks pretty worn. i'm kicking myself now that i didn't just change it.
Why? What makes a spring "worn"?also, can that big spring that is on the outside, forcing the actuating arm back, be too worn?
Then you honestly can't "feel the gears". What is "feel the gears". Do you mean that you can feel a discrete engagement in each of the four positions? Or do you just feel some resistance under the car as the shift coupler cage rides over the torsion tube or whatever you were saying?i get the shifting nut and wire back in and i can feel the gears, but the transmission is in gear the whole time,
CV linkages? trans side dishes? We need to speak the same language to communicate. If you have the least bit of an issue with the clutch disengaging, not having the CV joints bolted up absolutely works against you. The transmission needs the drag of the output shaft at a full stop, like any fully assembled car would have. You are trying to engage gears with cold transmission oil and no driveshafts? Forget it.i don't have the cv linkage hooked up and can see the trans-side dishes spin. but the clutch is more worrying to me.
There is no "max" to it. I don't actually know if you meant you wanted to replace the "pressure plate" further up or "clutch plate", but for the record, if you do put in a new clutch plate, the pressure plate fingers will actually be much further in towards the flywheel, and you WILL have to take up more clutch cable slack. As the clutch wears, the fingers move out, taking away free play.now i'm here, which is about where i had it before, way way in, almost to max
"Puppies"? There are puppies in there? Aw just kidding.chachi wrote:i've been playing with the cluth free play and now have it where it feels right - where it feels like it was set on the bus when i got it (the bus was in a very untouched condition in terms of the drivetrain, if not the body). i had it backed off at one point where i couldn't get it in gear and then backed it out to where the friction point was way too high, so i think i have a good sense of the range and what a few revolutions of the screw will do. and yes, i think it's about an inch of free play.
i'm still nervous about the ToB. i'm afraid to go anywhere for fear i'll pop it again.
Hi. Finally found this. Please don't misinterpret what I feel. I am only on the hunt for solutions. I get confused sometimes and have so many issues with so many VWs that I get befuddled. So, yes, a 1700 and an 091 can work, but there were many subtle dimensional changes to fit the 091 transaxle to the bus with that big 228 clutch disk. You have, I am sure, read of the different input shaft length and the different transaxle length and the need to swap bell housings and all.chachi wrote:sorry if i did not make that clear, but yes, this is a 1.7 (at least that what the code would indicate) that i aquired from some very nice sand railers in Corbet and an 091
your response in my other thred leads me to believe that you feel i am somehow problematic with clutches or somehow otherwise negligent.