Powder Coating

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hambone
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Powder Coating

Post by hambone » Wed Dec 17, 2008 9:14 am

What is the approx cost for engine tin? Any prep work needed? Can the pulleys be safely coated?
Jasan I think you had this done lemme know. :cheers:
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Amskeptic
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Re: Powder Coating

Post by Amskeptic » Wed Dec 17, 2008 1:43 pm

hambone wrote:What is the approx cost for engine tin? Any prep work needed? Can the pulleys be safely coated?
Jasan I think you had this done lemme know. :cheers:
Poisonally, I prefer paint. Powder coating is like cloisonne, brittle, cracks like porcelain, and you may very well have to bend tin to get everything to fit well. When it gets hairline cracks, rust gets in under the little spider tracks.

Either way, straighten your tin after cleaning. Refit it to the engine in its entirety and get to work tacking it down with screws here and there and gently bending and straightening until everything falls into place nicely. Then you can do your paint/powdercoat prep.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:09 pm

Good, I'm a cheap cheap man. Paint holds up ok, except for the over cylinder area, tends to cook off. I did kind of worry about the brittleness.
Shouldn't have to do too much straigtening right? Just taking off existing tin and putting it on a new case. (he says nievely)
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http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:34 pm

hambone wrote:Good, I'm a cheap cheap man. Paint holds up ok, except for the over cylinder area, tends to cook off. I did kind of worry about the brittleness.
Shouldn't have to do too much straigtening right? Just taking off existing tin and putting it on a new case. (he says nievely)
I guarantee you, guarantee you! that you can get an easy decade off your engine paint with the following:

Strip all the old paint off. Sandblast it even. WASH with hot dishwashing liquid soapy water and rinse unbelievably well. Dry it quickly. Do not touch the metal except for along the edges only as necessary.

No primer.

500* Engine Enamel, I use gloss black, spray a light tack coat. It should just look foggy speckled. Wait five minutes. Do another more medium coat so everything looks consistently wet but do not shoot for the final gloss, just nice and foggy consistent black. Now when you shoot, you will find the already dried coats interact with your new coat and they will do that cool "melt" as you spray. As soon as the melt occurs, move along and this coat will be glossy perfect.
Colin
(my tin paint is now eight years old come February)
Image
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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Bookwus
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Post by Bookwus » Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:43 pm

Hiya Bob,

And when you go to get rid of the old paint you might want to try this.......

http://www.instructables.com/id/Electro ... aka-Magic/

This is just a hoot! I did this with all my tinware. The electrolytic bath not only removes the rust it removes the paint also. I came out with tin that looked exactly like it did originally before painting. No chemicals, no scraping, no sanding.
I have cancer.

It does not have me.

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hambone
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Post by hambone » Wed Dec 17, 2008 2:56 pm

Great! Thanks a bunch guys.
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:03 pm

I'd recommend paint as well. It's cheap and you can touch it up. Last summer Colin and I got the pleasure of bending the shit out of my freshly painted tin to get it all to fit the way it should have (I didn't know it was so buggered up). If I'd powder coated instead of painted, I might have been crying by the end of the day....
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:32 pm

Ritter wrote:I'd recommend paint as well. It's cheap and you can touch it up. Last summer Colin and I got the pleasure of bending the shit out of my freshly painted tin to get it all to fit the way it should have (I didn't know it was so buggered up). If I'd powder coated instead of painted, I might have been crying by the end of the day....
Man, I was about crying at the end of the day. That poor tinware.
Colin :pale:
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Wed Dec 17, 2008 4:55 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
Ritter wrote:I'd recommend paint as well. It's cheap and you can touch it up. Last summer Colin and I got the pleasure of bending the shit out of my freshly painted tin to get it all to fit the way it should have (I didn't know it was so buggered up). If I'd powder coated instead of painted, I might have been crying by the end of the day....
Man, I was about crying at the end of the day. That poor tinware.
Colin :pale:
No worries! You were only trying to help. I haven't done touch up yet, but it's still so pleasurable to open the reactor bay and stick my head in there now.
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Wed Dec 17, 2008 7:41 pm

Well, for what it's worth I paid $150 for all of this............


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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Wed Dec 17, 2008 11:47 pm

Westy78 wrote:Well, for what it's worth I paid $150 for all of this............
That's gorgeous. Any issues with splintering due to serious readjustments, or was everything in good alignment?
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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chitwnvw
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Post by chitwnvw » Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:40 am

That's porn.

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RSorak 71Westy
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Post by RSorak 71Westy » Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:45 am

That's a excellent deal from what I've seen my local power coater wanted $150 to clearcoat a mustang 5.0 intake only! I passed.
Take care,
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.

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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Thu Dec 18, 2008 7:05 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
Westy78 wrote:Well, for what it's worth I paid $150 for all of this............
That's gorgeous. Any issues with splintering due to serious readjustments, or was everything in good alignment?
Colin

No issues yet. I did have to do some "massaging" to get all of the tin to fit. It was cobbled together from three or four engines so it didn't all want to play nice together.

That price was way cheaper than I was expecting to pay. They even did all of the prep work. Some of the pieces had some oily grunge on them but they said don't worry about it since they were going to have to sand blast them regardless of how clean they were as part of pre-paint prep.
Chorizo, it's what's for breakfast.

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Bookwus
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Post by Bookwus » Thu Dec 18, 2008 7:08 pm

Hiya Jasan,

Nice looking tin!

Just outta curiosity...............who did the powdercoating for you?
I have cancer.

It does not have me.

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