Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
- VWDreamer
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- Location: Portland, OR
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Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
Soooooo finally just got the engine all back together and put in, and running (after a few wiring issues ARG)
After about 5 minutes of running, a bit of oil is coming out of #3 exhaust tube.... at a pretty good rate .... i really dont understand as i just sealed them all up, and not sure what i did wrong (yes i have installed them without issue before).
Since it is on a type 1, and the furthest tube away from the rear of the bus, it is completely under the bottom engine tin.
Does anyone have any tips to help this go smoother? I was thinking about getting one of those dang spring loaded tubes (althought i dont want to, I would rather do that than pull the engine out again)
After about 5 minutes of running, a bit of oil is coming out of #3 exhaust tube.... at a pretty good rate .... i really dont understand as i just sealed them all up, and not sure what i did wrong (yes i have installed them without issue before).
Since it is on a type 1, and the furthest tube away from the rear of the bus, it is completely under the bottom engine tin.
Does anyone have any tips to help this go smoother? I was thinking about getting one of those dang spring loaded tubes (althought i dont want to, I would rather do that than pull the engine out again)
~Heather~
Portland, OR
1971 Adventurewagon - Rosie
1970 articulated vw bus - BusZilla II
1967 bug - daily - Bettie Page
http://www.vwdreamer.com
Portland, OR
1971 Adventurewagon - Rosie
1970 articulated vw bus - BusZilla II
1967 bug - daily - Bettie Page
http://www.vwdreamer.com
-
- IAC Addict!
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
pull the sled tin off, grab a hold of the offending tube and twist it. use pliers without crushing it, if needed. sometimes, often actually, the seals need help settling in.
1/20/2013 end of an error
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
never owned a gun. have fired a few.
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
You will need to make a not-good situation at least remain the same if not a little better.vdubyah73 wrote:pull the sled tin off, grab a hold of the offending tube and twist it. use pliers without crushing it, if needed. sometimes, often actually, the seals need help settling in.
A) pull the left side rocker assembly off (after finding the spot where most all valves are closed simultaneously, #4 tdc, I believe)
B) pull #3 exhaust pushrod
C) you must keep a tension on the pleats at the crankcase end. Use strong thin bailing wire to wrap the closest "valley" to the case you can get, twist and lock ends of wire in some visegrips. Use the visegrips to help pull the pushrod tube towards the case as you:
D) twist per vdubyah's instruction while using an 11mm ( or what ever size fills the hole without sticking in it) socket and extension to center the metal tube end in the hole. You will see that it is sometimes all cock-eyed.
E) Floss some of the valleys at the case and head end both. It is a simple wrap-wire around a valley at the pleated ends of the tube, then twist ends of bailing wire with pliers until you see it tighten and go down into the valley a little, unwrap and move to the next valley. It only takes a few to restore tension. Make sure tube edge is mostly centered in the head hole, stick pushrod in, rockers, adjust valves, run the engine, howdjoodo?
Colin
( next time, stretch the tubes to Bentley spec and don't let them get accidentally compressed due to misalignment when putting on the heads )
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- VWDreamer
- I'm New!
- Location: Portland, OR
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Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
Thank you, that is very helpful information.
any tips on getting the "sled" tin off without removing heaterbox?
and just curious what is your preference on sealant?
any tips on getting the "sled" tin off without removing heaterbox?
and just curious what is your preference on sealant?
~Heather~
Portland, OR
1971 Adventurewagon - Rosie
1970 articulated vw bus - BusZilla II
1967 bug - daily - Bettie Page
http://www.vwdreamer.com
Portland, OR
1971 Adventurewagon - Rosie
1970 articulated vw bus - BusZilla II
1967 bug - daily - Bettie Page
http://www.vwdreamer.com
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
oh no, here we go....VWDreamer wrote:
and just curious what is your preference on sealant?
I presume you are speaking of a sealant to be applied to the tube ends (on or near the seals...)?...
I'm sure there will be a boatload of opinions so I will offer mine.
I personally use moly or packing grease just to make it easy for the seals to get in there without getting all bungled. As well it allows for the 'twist to help seat the seals' method. I am thinking that properly installed the seals on the tube will be sufficient.
I am averse to using an rtv product because after it sets up it is difficult to remove for future work.
2cents. spend it wisely
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- VWDreamer
- I'm New!
- Location: Portland, OR
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Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
thanks :) I know i just like to get rich on peoples 2cents!
so after cutting the sled tin in half, it was torture, but was already beat-up from fitting around the super cool tin under the cylinders, i figured i would make it easy to access the tubes, so i installed pinchwelt on both sides of the cut tin, then realized it wasnt even the tubes, it was the oil cooler.
So last night, pulled engine, installed a good working oil cooler, and voila no more oil leak
so its all back together and sounds pretty good, just gotta break in the new rings and find that darn oil pressure safety wire (this bus had some "genius" rewire a bunch of stuff with lots of red and black wire, all on 1 wire )
I will upload some photos soon!
Thanks again!
so after cutting the sled tin in half, it was torture, but was already beat-up from fitting around the super cool tin under the cylinders, i figured i would make it easy to access the tubes, so i installed pinchwelt on both sides of the cut tin, then realized it wasnt even the tubes, it was the oil cooler.
So last night, pulled engine, installed a good working oil cooler, and voila no more oil leak
so its all back together and sounds pretty good, just gotta break in the new rings and find that darn oil pressure safety wire (this bus had some "genius" rewire a bunch of stuff with lots of red and black wire, all on 1 wire )
I will upload some photos soon!
Thanks again!
~Heather~
Portland, OR
1971 Adventurewagon - Rosie
1970 articulated vw bus - BusZilla II
1967 bug - daily - Bettie Page
http://www.vwdreamer.com
Portland, OR
1971 Adventurewagon - Rosie
1970 articulated vw bus - BusZilla II
1967 bug - daily - Bettie Page
http://www.vwdreamer.com
- Westy78
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Stumptown OR
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
Here's another 2¢ to add to your riches. I used Loctite teflon pipe thread sealant on my pushrod tube seals and they've been nice and dry for ~15k.
Chorizo, it's what's for breakfast.
- Gypsie
- rusty aircooled mekanich
- Location: Treadin' Lightly under the Clear Blue!
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
that's a sealant that does not cure?....Designed to remain pliable? Toothpaste consistency?
Sounds like it will hold up consistency over the temp range.
Sounds like it will hold up consistency over the temp range.
So it all started when I wanted to get better gas mileage....
- Westy78
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Stumptown OR
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
Yup.Gypsie wrote:that's a sealant that does not cure?....Designed to remain pliable? Toothpaste consistency?
Sounds like it will hold up consistency over the temp range.
Chorizo, it's what's for breakfast.
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
Type 1 pushrod tubes have a slightly different experience. While the Type 4 engines are designed to have movement between the seals and the case, the Type 1s are deadset. I would not use any sealant on Type 1 seals, just clean and dry . . .Westy78 wrote:Here's another 2¢ to add to your riches. I used Loctite teflon pipe thread sealant on my pushrod tube seals and they've been nice and dry for ~15k.
ColinInNorthCarolina
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- hambone
- Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
- Location: Portland, Ore.
- Status: Offline
Re: Type1 - Leaky pushrod tube
And use good German seals! Brazil rubber...notso hot.
Elring makes a decent seal kit for rebuilds.
Elring makes a decent seal kit for rebuilds.
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http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat