Itinerant Air-Cooled

Got my numbers dialed in. I am going for a 7.3 CR and need to add .04 to my deck height.
The shims go between the cylinder barrels and the cylinder heads correct? And do I need any Permatex on those?

Thanks!
- paige

I thought they went between the cylinder barrels and case.


neal

This is what I'm trying to determine. I think those are barrel shims and they are a large diameter.

If you're at 7.6 without the shims don't use them. One less point for leaks.

misszora wrote:This is what I'm trying to determine. I think those are barrel shims and they are a large diameter.

The factory sealing rings up at the top of your cylinder barrels are the diameter of the barrels, and the shims are the diameter of the case opening down at the bottom.

With 2.0 engines, it is recommended to delete the factory sealing rings and set your deck height solely through the use of the shims. HOWEVER > if some knucklehead has over-flycut the heads, you will have to use the sealings rings (little blue stripes on them in the kit) to prevent combustion gas blowby due to incorrect barrel-to-cylinder head spigot clamping. You can actually see between the cylinder barrel wall and the head spigot when you have proper clamping. If the outer fin surface of the barrel hits the outer surface of the head, then you will need the factory sealing ring and you will have to add .028" to your deck height measurement.
Colin

I did find .04 inch barrel shims online today.
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?P ... -C10-5185A
Right now I have .010 barrel shims and .030 sealing rings.

misszora wrote:I did find .04 inch barrel shims online today.
http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?P ... -C10-5185A
Right now I have .010 barrel shims and .030 sealing rings.

Your final assembly is going to include .040" shims and .030" head sealing rings?

If you *are* using the head sealing rings, please perform this additional step:

After you have torqued the heads to their final torque value of 23 ft/lbs, do another pass and bring them up to 35 ft/lbs. Let sit for at least overnight.

Now going exactly backwards in the sequence, loosen cylinder heads nuts to below 23 ft/lbs, then bring them up to exactly 23 ft/lbs, one nut at a time. You should end at 1 in the sequence diagram.
Colin
(this helps the sealing rings develop a set and hold the final tightening torque through the coming heat/cool cycles)

yes to your question and I will do that step today!!!
thank you, Colin.

Paige, you should check with Discount Import Parts right here in Portland - Hall Blvd. They had all the right base shims and even endplay shims that I needed. Give a call ahead of time and they can have it waiting for you.

I am going with Colin's advice from above on the heads.
I've got a big ol' box of endplay shims from A-1 to pick from at the moment.

It's amazing how much time I've spent driving around for just the right part.