Another Engine Build thread stock type 1 dp (Happy Ending)

[ruckman101]

The thermostat is short of just touching the top of the bracket by a quarter inch or so before it is pulled down and bolted to the base of the bracket. The spring been sprung.


neal

[ruckman101]

Are there rebuild kits for the early fuel pumps? I have an early Brosol, apparently, (IND BRAS B). One of the nibs (?), fuel lines (?), pipes (?) has let loose from the body, which allowed air in, so it was replaced. Thinking of rebuilding it and using it on the dual port for Gretchen. It was originally on her single port engine.

I recall a repair suggestion of doing a rough knurling of the small pipe with a pair of vice grips, giving it a touch of texture, and tapping it back into place, but I forget what kind of sealant, adhesive to use. JB Weld? Loctite?


neal

[hambone]

Cyanocrylate, it seems to be quite fuel resistant.
Rebuilt kits are available, I'd get it from Wolfsburg West ifn' it were I.

[Amskeptic]

Are there rebuild kits for the early fuel pumps? I have an early Brosol, apparently, (IND BRAS B). One of the nibs (?), fuel lines (?), pipes (?) has let loose from the body, which allowed air in, so it was replaced. Thinking of rebuilding it and using it on the dual port for Gretchen. It was originally on her single port engine.

I recall a repair suggestion of doing a rough knurling of the small pipe with a pair of vice grips, giving it a touch of texture, and tapping it back into place, but I forget what kind of sealant, adhesive to use. JB Weld? Loctite?


neal

Be a whole lot more cautious with a brass nipple that has come off the fuel pump body. When it is a carburetor nipple, repairs are in a fairly benign environment. A fuel pump is closer to engine heat and waay more vibration. Why did the nipple come loose anyway? Some one get all tough on removing the hose that was overcrunch-clamped? I am suggesting to people (who seem not to be aware that Brazilian/Mexican carbs and pumps are not built like the originals) that they cut fuel hose off, not pull and twist and yank and curse. Just slice it lengthwise like a hotdog on the grill.
Colin

[ruckman101]

Fuel pump was like that when we purchased. It explained what I guess would be vapor lock issues (?) or at least fuel deprivation that would on random occasions leave us stranded for stretches before running again.

Not going to mess with it at this point. Too close to getting things wrapped up. Two weeks turned to five months.


neal

[hambone]

The loose fittings on those fuel pumps seem to be as common as carbs. Must be because of the 2 different materials being used, and the press-fit loosening over time.

[ruckman101]

Learning, learning, learning. Today I learned the lower tin must go on before the heater boxes.


neal

[Amskeptic]

The loose fittings on those fuel pumps seem to be as common as carbs. Must be because of the 2 different materials being used, and the press-fit loosening over time.

From the factory, VW did not nutso clamp those hoses. We, in our paranoia, clamp the hell out of them. Then we rip the nipples off trying to get the petrified squished hoses off by yanking and sawing and twisting and swearing and prying with screwdrivers. The press fit does not loosen over time. It gets loosened over time.
Colin

( April 06 - all transaxle related posts have gone forth to . . . Transaxle Forum)

[ruckman101]

One axle on. One to go.


neal

[Amskeptic]

Ok, thought I had things set but I found a mystery wire,

Neal take this to the vehicle forum, this is not engine technical, it is generalized wandering.
Is this the Karmann Ghia, 1970? 71?

[ruckman101]

I'se skeered.

Other than taking the clutch cable off to get a dust boot onto the cable, I think the engine is ready to go into the car.


But first lunch. And maybe a beer.
neal

[bajaman72]

Well?? How was the beer?

[ruckman101]

Beer good.

Engine, eh, gots a problem.

Engine is in. Not a lot of wiggle room, but got it in there. I have no idea how to go about getting nut and washer onto the top stud off of the transaxle on the driver's side. The doghouse tin is in the way.

And on the starter side, the flat side of the D head is pointing up instead of down at the starter, giving it just enough angle it won't go through to the other side. And of course there is a slight lip on the starter body that the D head catches on, so I can't pull the bolt out. And the corner of the D prevents me from spinning the bolt into the proper position.

My frustration is very very very high, so I'll tackle it tomorrow. Step back before I end up killing a small innocent animal. I have a feeling I'm going to have to pull the engine back for that lousy stupid misaligned bolt.



neal

[SlowLane]

Engine is in. Not a lot of wiggle room, but got it in there. I have no idea how to go about getting nut and washer onto the top stud off of the transaxle on the driver's side. The doghouse tin is in the way.

I seem to recall that the engine cases which were originally equipped with the doghouse cooler had a threaded boss at that corner, precisely for the reason you've discovered. You may need to get fancy with the JB Weld or some other trick to keep the nut in place on your case.

And on the starter side, the flat side of the D head is pointing up instead of down at the starter, giving it just enough angle it won't go through to the other side. And of course there is a slight lip on the starter body that the D head catches on, so I can't pull the bolt out. And the corner of the D prevents me from spinning the bolt into the proper position.

Yeah, those D-head bolts are challenging. You mght be able to get a screwdriver under the head and free it up from where it's wedged against the starter, but it sounds like you're in for pulling the engine out to deal with the other side anyways. Once you get the D-bolt free, some sort of stick-um is useful for holding it in place in the correct orientation.

Best,
Lyle

[RSorak 71Westy]

Engine is in. Not a lot of wiggle room, but got it in there. I have no idea how to go about getting nut and washer onto the top stud off of the transaxle on the driver's side. The doghouse tin is in the way.

I had this problem on my Thing but noticed it before I put the engine in and welded a tab to the head of a bolt to keep it from spinning and put it in the engine so after it was in I had a stud sticking out of the trans to put a nut on that wouldn't turn.