Type 4 engine. I am trying to replace the rear main seal. I am having a bear of a time removing the fan hub from the crankshaft. In the past I have just put a peice of steel behind the 3 bolts and it just popped out. The hub is made of pretty good and hard steel.
Not working this time. I have heated up the hub after soaking it in solvent for a couple of days. Some hammering on the hub to see if that helps. So far nothing.
I have a gear puller (a harmonic balancer removal puller) that I have threaded on there and in theory, the center bolt should just walk it off the crankshaft.
Not working this time. Not so much as a budge.
Has anyone ever tried to cut the hub with a dremel tool ? I have not tried that before, but I think I could get it in there to cut partially through it in a few places to remove it without damaging the crankshaft.
Any thoughts out here?
Fan Hub Removal
- Randy in Maine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Old Orchard Beach, Maine
- Status: Offline
Fan Hub Removal
79 VW Bus
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- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Boalsburg PA
- Status: Offline
Re: Fan Hub Removal
Randy...Did you use propane or oxy/act? That tapered hub,if even rusted a little can hang on tight. Did the center bolt come out easy? I have had to go full bore with oxy on some bus parts that laughed at propane. Bob L.
- Randy in Maine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Old Orchard Beach, Maine
- Status: Offline
Re: Fan Hub Removal
I used MAP gas with no aditional O2 (since that is all I have). Center bolt came out easily.
79 VW Bus
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- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Boalsburg PA
- Status: Offline
Re: Fan Hub Removal
Randy, Mapp is hotter than propane but you're trying to heat expand a big thermal sink.
Two masses of metal in intimate contact. The hub itself and the crankshaft. I'd think those two could suck away enough Mapp type heat to prevent release. Got a buddy/friend with an oxy torch? Tricky stuff as that seal is not far away. Bob L.
Two masses of metal in intimate contact. The hub itself and the crankshaft. I'd think those two could suck away enough Mapp type heat to prevent release. Got a buddy/friend with an oxy torch? Tricky stuff as that seal is not far away. Bob L.
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: Fan Hub Removal
I strongly recommend no heat here.Randy in Maine wrote:I used MAP gas with no aditional O2 (since that is all I have). Center bolt came out easily.
Get a steel plate behind the hub and use the fan bolts to push off the hub.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- Randy in Maine
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Old Orchard Beach, Maine
- Status: Offline
Re: Fan Hub Removal
UPDATE...
It came out last night. I used the "harmonic balancer" gear puller along with a lot of torque on the big bolt that pushes on the center point and it came off as I applied sharp wacks to the pulley using a long punch and a BFH. The hub is pretty dense metal and I don't think applying the heat helped any.
The new seal will be applied using Indian Head gasket cement to the outside of the new seal and oil on the inside of it.
It came out last night. I used the "harmonic balancer" gear puller along with a lot of torque on the big bolt that pushes on the center point and it came off as I applied sharp wacks to the pulley using a long punch and a BFH. The hub is pretty dense metal and I don't think applying the heat helped any.
The new seal will be applied using Indian Head gasket cement to the outside of the new seal and oil on the inside of it.
79 VW Bus