Itinerant Air-Cooled

I got the cheap Bus Depot one 2 yrs ago and it's been great!

I have never had a German part die an early death. Engine, rubber, bolts...doesn't matter.
Brazilian (or Chinese) on the other hand.............
It all depends on where you drive your VW. If it's somewhere always near civilization then go for the cheap part, with the understanding upfront that it will not last as long. You will certainly gain mechaninckiin experience!

RZAR wrote:So does anyone know which one is best? I just found mine seeping between the booster.

My original master cylinder lasted from 1973 to 2005. I am paying up-front for German OEM and spending less per mile.
Colin

German it is! Is bus Depots 130 bucks the lowest price? And is there anything else I should get?

RZAR wrote:German it is! Is bus Depots 130 bucks the lowest price? And is there anything else I should get?

Uhhh. . . . . brake fluid.
Colin

I have that.. I was just wondering about any seals I might need ect. ect.

So what is the latest on master cylinders? Sounds like I am to find German made, and pay the price. I seem to be in the same situation as the original poster - I need a brake booster rebuild and it is probably time to match it to a new master cylinder. I topped off the upper reservoir before my 3 'first drives'. On the drives, I had zero to none brakes; now I notice that the upper reservoir is nearly empty with no visible leaks at the wheels or along the lines. I'm led to think that the fluid is collecting in the brake booster. I am not want to 'bleed the brakes' again, just to push additional fluid into the booster. I stripped a brake booster off of my parts bus and have another master cylinder (from same parts bus), but I don't want to 'swap' these parts just to wind-up in the same (failed) situation. Your thoughts/opinions, please.

Runamuck Bus wrote:I am to find German made, and pay the price. I stripped a brake booster off of my parts bus and have another master cylinder (from same parts bus), but I don't want to 'swap' these parts just to wind-up in the same (failed) situation. Your thoughts/opinions, please.

Everything will fail. If the master cylinder/booster from the parts bus shows no evidence of leakage, you have only the time of installation/removal as your gamble.
Colin

OK, thank you. I will more thoroughly inspect the 'parts bus' booster for signs of any former leaks. I do intend to seek/acquire/replace the necessary seals ('O' ring) and connections for master cylinder to brake booster. Bentley describes master cylinder rebuild as a job perhaps best left to the professionals (now hard to find or non-existent) and also cautions the need for re-hone (over bore) for any debris in the chambers - This concerns me; the 'parts bus' master cylinder is at the least requiring a good surface cleaning and who-knows-what from there. Bentley says 'repair or replace' master cylinder a few times in the chapter writings. Brakes always being the topic of - 'do it right the first time' conversation, I question the wisdom/logic of re-using vs bite-the-bullet and buy the 'good' cylinder and sent your booster to Texas! Like every one else, I want good brakes and I've come this far already...

Runamuck Bus wrote:OK, thank you. I will more thoroughly inspect the 'parts bus' booster for signs of any former leaks. I do intend to seek/acquire/replace the necessary seals ('O' ring) and connections for master cylinder to brake booster. Bentley describes master cylinder rebuild as a job perhaps best left to the professionals (now hard to find or non-existent) and also cautions the need for re-hone (over bore) for any debris in the chambers - This concerns me; the 'parts bus' master cylinder is at the least requiring a good surface cleaning and who-knows-what from there. Bentley says 'repair or replace' master cylinder a few times in the chapter writings. Brakes always being the topic of - 'do it right the first time' conversation, I question the wisdom/logic of re-using vs bite-the-bullet and buy the 'good' cylinder and sent your booster to Texas! Like every one else, I want good brakes and I've come this far already...

If there is rust pitting along the lower surface due to water in the brake fluid, then you best go new. If no rust, go for it. It is not rocket science.
I hone brake cylinders with a socket extension and 800 grit sandpaper wrapped around a little socket in a 45* cross-hatch. Then wash well. Reassemble with clean parts and new rubber parts in the order of disassembly. Works gud.
Colin

Well, I went with new. Jim Beam and I were surfin one night and out came the debit card (bad combination). I called the next day, just to see what we had done. Gary was very re-assuring; being VW people themselves, they understood my concern - German made parts, quality confidence and some grommets please. Here is the shipment:


Made in Czech Republic, labeled to ship everywhere. Gary threw in the cylinder to booster 'O' ring (I think). Bottom line? - $155 (approx)

California Jbugs Order
211611021AA MASTER CYLINDER, BUS 68-79, W/SERVO, GERMAN 1 $149.95 $149.95
113611817A MASTER CYLINDER PLUG, T-1 72-79 2 $1.95 $3.90

Booster should be home from Texas next week.

Good for you! Support Quality!
Colin

Installed the new master cylinder today. I'll just say, I can make a 'job' out of anything. I did the 'poor mans' version of a bench bleed. In spite of the method, that actually seemed to wok out well.






I improvised some tubes to 're-feed' the reservoir from the master cylinder. Added some clear tubing so that I could watch for bubbles. I short time, the master cylinder was pumping clear fluid back to the reservoir. This all went south at install time; my solid brake lines were too long to fit on the cylinder under the bus and the clear tubes got in the way of the existing, actual brake lines. Needless to say, I lost a lot of fluid while trying to swap over and I created a new vocabulary of brake install words. The bleeding after hook-up was quick and I have brake lights too! Here is the finished product, but there are still some problems -
The brake lights are dim, barely noticeable with the lights on.
The pedal seems soft; I may have to make some connecting rod adjustments.

I think a re-bleeding is in order and I don't know if I understand the connecting rod adjustment stuff just yet. Seems like, in order to make the adjustment, the clevis pin connection stops the rod from turning easily. No test ride yet, I want to continue to tighten and check for leaks. Anything you got will be appreciated, thanks.