Front disc brake frozen?

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iwantmybustorun
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Front disc brake frozen?

Post by iwantmybustorun » Sun Aug 05, 2007 2:07 pm

If the pads on my 73 bus are frozen to the disc does it mean i need a new calliper or can it be adjusted?
73 Westy
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vwlover77
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Post by vwlover77 » Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:24 pm

There is no adjustment that I know of.

Sounds like the caliper will need to be rebuilt or replaced. I'm guessing there is corrosion on the piston causing it to stick.....
Don

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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:56 pm

Or the brake hose on that caliper has deteriorated to the point of sealing it shut in the closed position.
Chorizo, it's what's for breakfast.

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Mon Aug 06, 2007 7:38 am

Thanks guys. This is what i found in my searches as well. I guess I am trying to narrow it down now. I am wondering, since it was only one brake that was freezing up, could I only need to flush the old fluid (probably 8 years old!) and change the brake hoses?

The Bentley also mentions cleaning the master cylinder's compensating port as a possible fix for overheating and binding of the brakes.
1. I am wondering if this is a solution when this is happening to both front brakes. Mine is only on the driver's side so I am thinking that it is not the master cylinder or the pushrod clearance. Is this right?

2. Since it is only the one side is it worth it to just flush the system and change the hoses to see if it helps?

3.a. If I release some of the pressure in the system through the bleeder valve should it release the pads from the rotor?
b. If it does not, does this mean my pistons are frozen?
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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RSorak 71Westy
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Post by RSorak 71Westy » Mon Aug 06, 2007 10:08 am

The answers to all your question are yes....
Take care,
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Mon Aug 06, 2007 1:48 pm

I tried to release the pressure through the bleeders but it did not work. There was no fluid traveling down the flex hose to the bleeders. When i took off the hose i had a steady drip from the brake line but nothing through the hose. I am going to flush the system and put on the new brake hoses and tomorrow.

Thanks.
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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Ritter
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Post by Ritter » Mon Aug 06, 2007 3:07 pm

iwantmybustorun wrote:I tried to release the pressure through the bleeders but it did not work. There was no fluid traveling down the flex hose to the bleeders.
When I changed out my rubber hoses, there was enough crap (decomposed rubber) that it plugged up one bleeder. You can totally remove them to clean it out. Remember, this is fun!
1978 Westfalia 2.0 FI

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Mon Aug 06, 2007 6:18 pm

You can totally remove them to clean it out. Remember, this is fun!
_________________
I will do this. I already took one off and it was clean. I will take the other one off tomorrow and clean it too.

I am actually having fun. This is my first brake adventure. I am enjoying the learning process so far. I just hope this is the problem and not something more expensive, like the calipers.

Thanks
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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RSorak 71Westy
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Post by RSorak 71Westy » Tue Aug 07, 2007 9:04 am

Brakes are one of the simplest and easiest systems to get right.
Take care,
Rick
Stock 1600 w/dual Solex 34's and header. mildly ported heads and EMPI elephant's feet. SVDA W/pertronix. 73 Thing has been sold. BTW I am a pro wrench have been fixing cars for living for over 30 yrs.

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Tue Aug 07, 2007 7:25 pm

Today went well I think. The new hoses went on easy and the flush and bleed went well too. I took it for a quick test drive, slamming the brakes hard to see if i could get the hard pull to the right that I had noticed before. The result was near perfect. So I think my fix is a success!

My only concern now is that both sides seam to drag on the rotor a little bit. Is this normal? I don't think so. So tomorrow i will try to back off the push rod to see if that helps.

Thanks.
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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Westy78
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Post by Westy78 » Tue Aug 07, 2007 8:59 pm

The pads will drag slightly on the disc. Not enough to abruptly stop the wheel when you turn it off the ground but you will hear a slight rub. Enough that the wheel should come to a slow stop by the pads rubbing and not by coasting.
Chorizo, it's what's for breakfast.

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iwantmybustorun
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Post by iwantmybustorun » Wed Aug 08, 2007 8:24 am

Westy78 wrote:The pads will drag slightly on the disc. Not enough to abruptly stop the wheel when you turn it off the ground but you will hear a slight rub. Enough that the wheel should come to a slow stop by the pads rubbing and not by coasting.
Really?! Wow. I am very green with this brake stuff. That surprises me. On the other hand, after my test drive last night, I felt the wheels and they did not feel warm due to the friction so I guess that makes sense.

Thanks again guys. I think my work on the brakes is done for now... with a total cost of 36 dollars. $4 for the brake fluid and $32 for the hoses. No labor cost and no new calipers! YA!

The best part is that I am finished in time for my camping trip. Leaving today. Wish me good vibes. My first camping trip since the resto work. :bounce:
73 Westy
1700
Weber single progressive
[Crane ignition system out]
SVDA and points

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