Itinerant Air-Cooled

It takes an elephant push to activate the brake lights on my '69 Bus. I am guessing it is the switches on the master cylinder. Fuses are clean, not sure about the terminals but it shouldn't matter. Volts is volts.
Anyone have any beenteredonethat advice for a tattered old soul?
Since I'm heading off-grid I will deal with this later.
http://www.ipconlinestore.com/vw-brake- ... 3-bus.html

Always somethin. This just started acting up about 10 years ago.


ooooooooooo worth $50?
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Deta ... 3945515CGR

Yup, bad brake switches on the master cylinder. My 67 bug did the same thing. I had to MASH down on the pedal to get the brake lights to come on.. The car had the cheap, Chinese Autozone special brake switches installed in the M/C. I bought ATE German brake switches off a guy on The Samba. I think I paid $15 ea for them. After installing them, problem gone.

This is where I bought them from. They are now $20 each.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... id=1916942

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=830008
Ya gotta bleed the brakes yah?

hambone wrote:http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=830008
Ya gotta bleed the brakes yah?

Nope.. I unscrewed them (one at a time) with something to catch the little bit of fluid that comes out under the M/C and simply screwed in the new ones. It's basically the same thing Colin does when he bleeds the back brakes on buses. He cracks the bleeders and lets gravity do the work.

Just don't touch the brakes with them un-screwed.

When the new switches are almost tightened down, I will have an assistant push the brake pedal slightly to get any air bubbles out, then I'll finalize the torquing. THEN the assistant is allowed to release the pedal.

Robbie

New switches finally! Hey not bad only a year.
Seems to have solved the problem, I'll know for sure tonight.

Excellent. Off to adjust my rears so I won't rear-end your fancy brake lights at the Lab.
Robbie