Itinerant Air-Cooled

Did a search on this subject and nothing specific to this maintenance item came up.
I'll be crawling under there tomorrow to get my sticky throttle cable to operate smoothly again.

Any tips, tricks, be carefuls ?

Make sure the linkage and pedal hinge are not sticky, those can cause issues just as easily as the cable itself. I had to remove my pedal pin and thoroughly clean the hinge area and pin itself to cure a sticky throttle.

When we reinstall our engines it's very easy to kink the cable between its bowden tube and engine tin pass-through. If it's kinked at all it will resist smooth sliding. In a hurry a few weeks ago I did it, and I didn't have time to swap the cable out. Vise-grips on each side of the cable to unbend the bend, and grease in the tubes. Engine in and off to work- I can't tell that it's not a fresh cable.

I also had an issue with the Wolfsburg West accelerator pedal rod boot being too tight, and it took a few days for me to realize I could grease that rod too, as well as all the moving points in the pedal linkage.

Seems like a good place to wonder aloud,of chances for pulling the whole throttle cable through the bowdin tube.Just for cleaning/lube to aid sticky throttle when cold. V cold.

That it is mission creep? Probably.
As I sense the throttle body is more the cause.
But the temps are such, no way to attempt unfastening throttle body without all those hoses,and s boot disgruntlement. Heh, and when it warms up, it wont be a problem...meh.
..So chances of pulling and cleaning and reinstalling throttle cable seem to be a part of the job which could happen...as long as my bowdin tube isnt bumpy?
//Eric

Boxcar wrote:Seems like a good place to wonder aloud,of chances for pulling the whole throttle cable through the bowdin tube.Just for cleaning/lube to aid sticky throttle when cold. V cold.

That it is mission creep? Probably.
As I sense the throttle body is more the cause.
But the temps are such, no way to attempt unfastening throttle body without all those hoses,and s boot disgruntlement. Heh, and when it warms up, it wont be a problem...meh.
..So chances of pulling and cleaning and reinstalling throttle cable seem to be a part of the job which could happen...as long as my bowdin tube isnt bumpy?
//Eric

Sometimes, too much lubrication makes the accelerator sluggish in extreme cold. Get a squirt can or little wick in a plastic bottle (zoom spout oiler) and use automatic transmission fluid into the cable sheath and on the throttle body where the shaft comes up, and be thorough between the levers and springs atop the throttle body, work it in, exercise that redundant spring lever. Then go in the house, get a hot cup of cocoa and a blanky and hibernate until spring CAN'T I HAVE A LOUSY WARM DAY FOR ONCE???
Colin

I hear Guadalajara has moderate temps..
ZoomspoutOiler, Righton. Will do a teetering rampage to raise my bowden floodplane.

Well working conditions precluded any teetering. I exercised atf into spring and holder,and lower throttle lever,all getting close but...
Looks like the kind of assembly that defies instant gratification. Perhaps some more atf drizzle and exercise and heating/COOLING this week will reach the peevish pivoting point..
I shortened over ride spring so assist spring still has 15/20% of first throttle motion.
But its better. Thanks. No more WFO throttle startups.

Boxcar wrote:I hear Guadalajara has moderate temps..
ZoomspoutOiler, Righton. Will do a teetering rampage to raise my bowden floodplane.

Well working conditions precluded any teetering. I exercised atf into spring and holder,and lower throttle lever,all getting close but...
Looks like the kind of assembly that defies instant gratification. Perhaps some more atf drizzle and exercise and heating/COOLING this week will reach the peevish pivoting point..
I shortened over ride spring so assist spring still has 15/20% of first throttle motion.
But its better. Thanks. No more WFO throttle startups.

I did not spell out what may already be obvious to you, that the end of the cable sheath is accessible through the front tin grommet.

Also, check the accelerator pedal link. Sometimes the pedal gets smashed sideways a little, and the link is no longer a good straight shot down to the lever under the front floor. Too, lack of lubrication at the link where it goes through the hole of accelerator pedal will allow that hole to get elongated and the link can accidentally go into the hole too far. Check it out. Here, grease is good, the biggest baddest grease you got. Hit the hinge at the base of the pedal with atf/engineoil/grease in that order.

Heck, if you're a late automatic, go forth under ye rampaged automobile and check carefully the entire throttle cable, lever, pivot, everything at the transmission.

I got my warm day.
Colin70*

I shortened over ride spring so assist spring still has 15/20% of first throttle motion.
But its better. Thanks. No more WFO throttle startups.

Yes indeed, got throttle control way down to where it did not articulate well previous to the atf spring massage.
Starts are now a smooth transition, from still, to idle. No cold, throttle blips to work around the old issue.
The atf, motor oil, heavy grease "lubricative"camel nose in the tent of poor places like the throttle pedal pivot a good hint as well.
Caught the front under vehicle throttle pivot and bowdin terminus, and was reminded even sprays with micro zoom spouts do not flow uphill.
This was still when throttle was sticky, and I couldn't bear the earful of torment to mount my wooden rampage. But yes I am trying to get back under for seasonal rust remediation.. Now is easier for all concerned.
On to more lubing and fixing, decrusting from 2014's list!
Thirties°f here seemed like...well not 70°f,good for you. You drove to it! It>should<be yours!