cold (really) hard start

[TrollFromDownBelow]

temps have dropped down into the 30's around here.... so not driving the bus frequently. When it is 'over-night' cold, she is REALLY hard to start....takes quite a bit of cranking. Runs fine, and she starts fine after she warms up a bit.

Where should I start my diagnosis?

[Amskeptic]

temps have dropped down into the 30's around here.... so not driving the bus frequently. When it is 'over-night' cold, she is REALLY hard to start....takes quite a bit of cranking. Runs fine, and she starts fine after she warms up a bit.

Where should I start my diagnosis?

You need the cold start valve spritz. It is critical with a cold FI engine.

There is a small red/white wire with a push-on connector on the starter solenoid. It goes to <consult Double Relay Article in Fuel Delivery> double relay only as a way station (the double relay does not affect this circuit) and off to the cold start valve. The other terminal of the cold start valve is grounded at the thermo-time switch. It only sprays for a couple of seconds only when the starter is actuated. Start your diagnosis with a test light on the double relay terminal and alligator clip grounded on bare metal. Have your dearly beloved crank the starter just a second, and make sure that the test lamp illuminates briefly.
Colin

[Gypsie]

I would also check out your Battery Charge status. How old is the battery? Check it's charge level before trying to crank anything. Needs a solid 11v (this number is pulled right out of my ear and is intended to mean a solid charge) for the FI. Overnight cold may be putting you at a start point below 11v, combined with the extra effort to turn the crank there may not be enough juice to run the FI system (pump/CSV etc...).