Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

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BumbleBus
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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Sat Jun 25, 2011 11:03 pm

tristessa wrote:Get rid of that Weber and put the stock carb setup on there? :cyclopsani:
Well.. duh. Heh, heh. If I could I would believe me. Ain't in the budget at the moment sadly. :blackeye:
tristessa wrote:I don't see any reason *not* to tee those two lines together and connect to the air cleaner.
I did tee the lines together this afternoon and drove around for about 30 miles tonight. She's purring and the fumes are much, much less so I know it's working at least some what. Whether it's "ok" or not remains to be seen, but every little bit helps. That's sorta been my credo with this resto, "if it's better than it was before it's okay for now."
'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by Oregon72 » Sun Jun 26, 2011 10:21 am

BumbleBus wrote:
tristessa wrote: That's sorta been my credo with this resto, "if it's better than it was before it's okay for now."
Let me remind you how it was before--- I'd say you're doing pretty good

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Tue Jun 28, 2011 12:40 pm

So when I turn left there is a fairly serious scraping sound rear/left that I'm pretty sure is the hand brake cable rubbing on the wheel hub. Since I've driven over 50 miles since my first ever brake job I figured I'd pop off the left rear drum and see what's what.

According to Sir Bentley I'm missing a hand brake cable clasp/clip so I just added a little zip tie to the arm end over the solid metal so that should keep the cable from scraping for now. Ghetto™ sure, but poverty & lack of hardware are the mother of all innovation. :rr:

I did see this though:
Image

And to a lesser extent on the other side:
Image

Is this normal wear-in or does my drum need machining? If I back off the pads anymore I'll get no hand brake bite. I'm doing the "hand tight & back off 3-4 clicks". I have excellent braking when driving around though I notice this afternoon my reservoir was down to 1/3rd full, but I have no leaks. Anyway... rambling on as usual.

Back to installing my cork flooring...
'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Mon Aug 01, 2011 10:13 am

Just shy of 2 years after Bumblebus arrived in my life we did our first overnighter together finally. Now or never. Enough tweaking. Enough wrenching. A 90 degree summer day & our destination was only 25 miles away. Figured I could get out & push us there worst case. Heh, heh. Threw every spare part I had in there just in case... I was that paranoid & sure something would break. I took back roads at 35-45mph for as long as I could, but then had to do a 15 mile highway run. I watched in horror as the taco plate oil sender VDO temps climbed through 200... 210... 220... finally leveling off. I smelled residual burning mouse piss & could think of nothing else but that I'd missed a nest somewhere deep in the recesses of the vital cooling mechanisms. Pressing on none the less @ ~55mph @ max torque 3,200 rpm with a stiff head quartering wind we finally made it to our goal. A 500 acre ranch nestled up against the mountains just outside West Glacier, MT. Our drummer scored a spread for his wedding weekend & as the bass player it was my duty to be there to party with him the whole time. It was a blissful weekend filled with marriage, music & merriment & during the 9am drive back Sunday morning in 60 degree ambient the oil temps never got above 190 @ 55mph. Thanks Bumblebus for showing me that you can drive me to a happy place & back (& survive an insane lightning/thunder/hail/rain storm) in style.

:rr:

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Finished the weekend with a friend showing me how to sew so I can make curtains.. started simple with a camp pillowcase. L11H on the fabric just like Bumble. :drunken:

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'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Thu Jun 27, 2013 2:41 pm

Dumb Question 101 time...

I purchased this repo mechanical fuel pump:

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http://www.eisparts.com/021127025A.html

From EIS Parts.com. Over the whole electric pump stuff. Back to basics. What the photo barely shows (on the right hand image) is that there is a third, narrow nipple also on this pump. A quick google-fu reveals this may be a vacuum line?? Or fuel return line? Anyone know which and what I can do about it? So like... if it's vacuum... port it from the carb? If it's fuel return... return from where? And I read if I just block it off there will be too much pressure? Fuel pressure? Vacuum pressure?

Sincerely,
Ignorant & Confused
'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Thu Jun 27, 2013 2:58 pm

While I'm at the dumb questions... having recently taken (towed) Bumblebus out of storage I note a new, rather insistent, oil leak. I've tracked it to what appears to be the outer #2 exhaust pushrod tube seal. All my pushrod tubes appear "like new". My question is... can long-ish term storage cause the seal to dry up etc. or should I be wondering about another cause. It's only the one seal far as I can tell. I've read this seal replacement can be done without removing the motor/heads on the Type IV and that it's something a n00b like me can probably even do myself in an hour. Might be something I tackle since I can't abide Bumble leaving it's mark too much. Thanks again.
'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by SlowLane » Thu Jun 27, 2013 4:55 pm

BumbleBus wrote:What the photo barely shows (on the right hand image) is that there is a third, narrow nipple also on this pump. A quick google-fu reveals this may be a vacuum line?? Or fuel return line? Anyone know which and what I can do about it? So like... if it's vacuum... port it from the carb? If it's fuel return... return from where? And I read if I just block it off there will be too much pressure? Fuel pressure? Vacuum pressure?
I seem to recall reading a thread (either here or at theSamba) about these fuel pumps that mentions a "drain" from the fuel pump body. Apparently you're supposed to attach a short length of hose to that nipple and run it down to rest on the top of your lower "sled" tin, where it will deposit a nice oily patch that is supposed to get dried up by the flow of hot cooling air. You'll note that the nipple is plumbed into the lower half of the pump, which technically vents into the crankcase, so no fuel pressure or vacuum is involved here.
I've never had or worked on a type IV of that vintage, so maybe one of the other guys with more direct experience can chime in.
BumbleBus wrote:oil leak. I've tracked it to what appears to be the outer #2 exhaust pushrod tube seal. All my pushrod tubes appear "like new". My question is... can long-ish term storage cause the seal to dry up etc. or should I be wondering about another cause. It's only the one seal far as I can tell. I've read this seal replacement can be done without removing the motor/heads on the Type IV and that it's something a n00b like me can probably even do myself in an hour. Might be something I tackle since I can't abide Bumble leaving it's mark too much.
Yes, replacing the type IV pushrod tube seals is eminently do-able by a relative newbie. Head removal is not required, although you do need to remove the rocker arm assemblies, so be prepared to handle those appropriately. It's probably best to do one cylinder at a time if you need to go that far. I would budget more than an hour for the job myself, but I hate to rush things.

It's entirely possible, though, that that one pushrod tube has just crept out of the case enough to start leaking. Before you even start unbolting things, see if you can press it in (gently, using a wooden dowel or plastic thingy on the outer end of the tube after removing the rocker arm cover). While you''re in there, check for the presence and proper installation of the convoluted pushrod tube retention wire springy-things. If you don't have them, then that's probably your problem. If you do have them, make sure that the "flat" parts of the retaining wires are bearing against the ends of the pushrod tubes, not sitting inside the tubes.

If you do decide to replace the o-rings, get Viton ones. AirHead Parts carries them,
'81 Canadian Westfalia (2.0L, manual), now Californiated

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by drober23 » Fri Jun 28, 2013 5:42 am

Bumble,

Did you get any input on the brake photo? It looks to me that most of your wear is occurring in the middle of those shoes. Is it possible that the shoes are too small? See if you can measure the drum diameter to see if it is out of spec, but I would not be stunned if you got the wrong shoes in there. Just a thought.

Changing subjects, to when you pull the push rod tube. When you take the rocker arm assemblies off, make a note of how the spring goes back in. It stumped me the first time I had to replace it. Not hard if you pay attention to how it came out though.

By the way, I love the fabric on the pillowcase!

Good luck to you!
DJ

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(plus more busses than sense)

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by SlowLane » Fri Jun 28, 2013 10:32 am

drober23 wrote: When you take the rocker arm assemblies off, make a note of how the spring goes back in. It stumped me the first time I had to replace it. Not hard if you pay attention to how it came out though.
The more I think about the process, the more I realize how many fiddly little details there can be with pulling the rocker arms and replacing the pushrod o-rings. This alone could be the topic of its own thread/sticky. In general, drober's last sentence applies to every procedure to do with the rocker arms: pay close attention to how they come out, and assuming they were installed correctly in the first place, you'll have a good chance of getting them back in correctly. At the very least, you won't make it worse.
The rocker-arm nuts are rather small, and they don't take a great deal of torque (I don't have my Bentley to reference right now). You don't want to over-torque them. Make sure you have a torque wrench that goes low enough for those nuts.
'81 Canadian Westfalia (2.0L, manual), now Californiated

"They say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing, but it is not one half so bad as a lot of ignorance."
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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by bajaman72 » Fri Jun 28, 2013 11:30 pm

I still have my fuel pump laying close by. The third nipple is a vent I believe. Mine has a small hose still attached that wasn't hooked to anything... :scratch:
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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Sat Jun 29, 2013 12:15 am

bajaman72 wrote:The third nipple is a vent I believe.
Yeah... threadjacked a relevant thread over on the Samba for confirmation and the ever knowledgeable "busdaddy" confirmed it's an overflow type nipple. I'll just route it somewhere benign in case of future failure.

Good to know about the brake shoes maybe being wrong size. Thanks for the replies!
'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Sun Jun 30, 2013 2:09 pm

I've been re-assembling my Solex TCIC 34 progressive carburetor with a nice rebuild kit from Italy and taking photos the whole time to aid this put-back-together process. Coupla issues that I didn't get a photo of:

1. Accelerator pump set screw setting. At idle should the accelerator pump set screw be resting just against against the diaphragm ready for a pump or should there be a gap? I feel like without a gap the set screw pushes in the diaphragm a lot more than looks healthy. I wouldn't want to rupture my brand new diaphragm by pumping too deeply.

2. Electric choke. Please correct if incorrect. Upon engine start up I want the butterfly valve on the choke fully closed normally yes? I read the weber/redline initial setup where upon you block open the choke valve to allow the choke cams to cycle fully... and that... just confused me. :-)

Thanks! So close to camping I can taste it!!
'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

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Re: Bumblebus Restoration Thread - '72 L11H Campmobile.

Post by BumbleBus » Tue Jul 02, 2013 7:47 pm

Progressing past total neophyte to base amateur seems to elude me despite my best efforts. I just finished rebuilding my Solex progressive carburetor (yeah, yeah I know) and that went well. I set the carb to initial settings based on redline/weber instructions. Re-checked valves etc and fired up the bus for the first time in awhile. Vroom!

Okay... I set idle mixture per instructions and adjusted idle stop to just shy of 1000rpm with choke fully open. I then re-timed the bus and this is where things get weird. If if set idle at 7.5 BTDC per 009/prog instructions the bus dies. Hmm. Backed the dizzy back to the notch and vroom idles like a kitten and advances really well (except the hinting of back firing when I let off the throttle hmm). Problem is that at idle I'm at like 36 ATDC... what... the?? This is the only place I can get the bus to run really well. What the heck did I miss? Thanks for advice!

And now to the video... sounds okay right? Idling at 36 ATDC... ungh...

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1GKTKaCRQ3o[/youtube]
'72 Sierra Yellow Campmobile

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me than a frontal lobotomy.

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