Fuel pump issues/replacement options

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 2:48 pm

I checked my fuel pressure the other day and it checked out except it did not build pressure when I brought the RPM up, in fact they went down

Any of you know of another way to test this and if this COULD contribute to my hot head temps?

Much appreciated.

steve74baywin · Post by **steve74baywin** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:17 pm

If it is FI still the pressure regulator should keep it from going too high. I think,,, note I said think, as long as it doesn't drop below 26 or so at anytime you should be good. One test is to remove the vacuum line from the pressure regulator, this should cause it to go higher than the recommended 28 psi.

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 3:33 pm

steve74baywin wrote:If it is FI still the pressure regulator should keep it from going too high. I think,,, note I said think, as long as it doesn't drop below 26 or so at anytime you should be good. One test is to remove the vacuum line from the pressure regulator, this should cause it to go higher than the recommended 28 psi.

Thanks for the reply...but I think I should be getting an increase in PSI as the rpms go up....I am getting a drop in PSI. At idle I did the regulator test and the numbers are good. (29 psi at idle and 38 psi when I pull the hose.) I am just wondering if this is why my plugs are white....just trying to connect some dots here.

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 6:49 pm

I just read this off of type 2 mailing list...

"If you are going to bench test it with gasoline running through it, you need to remember that these are 'push' pumps, not 'pull' pumps. So you need your gas source to be able to gravity-feed the pump."

My PO hooked up a Ba6 heater and ran the fuel hos from a 'tee' connection right before the fuel filter....do you think this could be messing up the gravity feed down from the tank...it does flatten it out a bit :smt102

Post by **Amskeptic** » Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:01 pm

spiffy wrote:
I think I should be getting an increase in PSI as the rpms go up....I am getting a drop in PSI. At idle I did the regulator test and the numbers are good. (29 psi at idle and 38 psi when I pull the hose.) I am just wondering if this is why my plugs are white....just trying to connect some dots here.

Your idle test has cleared the fuel pressure regulator as a culprit.
The fact that you get a drop off as the rpms go up suggests either a restriction or a pump that can't keep up the volume.
And yeeees, you will get white plugs and potential overheating with a drop off in fuel pressure at higher flow volumes.
You can perform a volume test into a graduated cylinder per the Bentley.
Colin

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:23 am

And yeeees, you will get white plugs and potential overheating with a drop off in fuel pressure at higher flow volumes.
You can perform a volume test into a graduated cylinder per the Bentley.
Colin[/quote]

Okay, I was planning on testing the spray pattern and seals anywho, so that will be a good time to accomplish that. I also checked my double relay and the power to the pump...solid 12V at all connections and my harness is a-okay on resistance on both ends. I am going to try tonight to de-commision my Ba6 from the fule supply just to eleminate that as a possible contributor......plus it scares the hell out of the wifey.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Wed Aug 09, 2006 7:37 am

spiffy wrote: Okay, I was planning on testing the spray pattern and seals anywho, so that will be a good time to accomplish that. I also checked my double relay and the power to the pump...solid 12V at all connections and my harness is a-okay on resistance on both ends. I am going to try tonight to de-commision my Ba6 from the fule supply just to eleminate that as a possible contributor......plus it scares the hell out of the wifey.

I think you want to fill a liter bottle in 30 seconds, that is the "delivery" specification. Use the end of the fuel rail just before it goes into the regulator. There is a relationship between "delivery" and pressure.
Low pressure>low delivery, usually a pump/pump check valve issue.
Correct pressure>low delivery is an upstream (filter) restriction.
High pressure>normal delivery is a downstream restriction (regulator return hose).
Colin

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 2:48 pm

What PSI should a replacement fuel pump put out? I think I remember someone recommending a Ford Courier (1980?) fuel pump, but I am not sure if that was for a carb application......

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 8:15 pm

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDeta ... 52&ptset=A

How about that for an on the road replacement? 1 year warranty as well....

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:01 pm

spiffy wrote:What PSI should a replacement fuel pump put out? I think I remember someone recommending a Ford Courier (1980?) fuel pump, but I am not sure if that was for a carb application......

1980 Ford Courier pump put's out 2.5 to 4 Psi, carbs only. I posted that over thesamba. If you can't get the correct pump fast enough, I'll bet a Napa guy could find a pump in stock with the correct pressure and volume for your FI you just have to know what you need. Thats how I found the Ford Courier pump nearly 7 years ago and that pump is still running in my Dune Buggy.

Bill

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Thu Aug 10, 2006 9:05 pm

vdubyah73 wrote:
spiffy wrote:What PSI should a replacement fuel pump put out? I think I remember someone recommending a Ford Courier (1980?) fuel pump, but I am not sure if that was for a carb application......
1980 Ford Courier pump put's out 2.5 to 4 Psi, carbs only. I posted that over thesamba. If you can't get the correct pump fast enough, I'll bet a Napa guy could find a pump in stock with the correct pressure and volume for your FI you just have to know what you need. Thats how I found the Ford Courier pump nearly 7 years ago and that pump is still running in my Dune Buggy.

Bill

Thanks....I thought I had read that somewhere!!! I will go check it out, an alternative would be nice.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 4:50 pm

spiffy wrote:What PSI should a replacement fuel pump put out? I think I remember someone recommending a Ford Courier (1980?) fuel pump, but I am not sure if that was for a carb application......

FI pump has a relief valve that opens at 60 psi. That apparent excess allows you your 36 psi at the litre per/30 seconds rate.

Aftermarket carburetor pumps can range from 3-5-7 psi. OEM dual carbs like 5 psi.
Colin

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:06 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
spiffy wrote:What PSI should a replacement fuel pump put out? I think I remember someone recommending a Ford Courier (1980?) fuel pump, but I am not sure if that was for a carb application......
FI pump has a relief valve that opens at 60 psi. That apparent excess allows you your 36 psi at the litre per/30 seconds rate.

Aftermarket carburetor pumps can range from 3-5-7 psi. OEM dual carbs like 5 psi.
Colin

I think I am close to solving this head temp thing and the injectors getting cleaned and a new fuel pump (everything else is new

) and a run on the analyzer might just get me to where I need to be....If not...well at least I done learned sumptin'

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:18 pm

Well, after looking around and $155 pumps from the flaps and their non stock connections I decided to go with the bosch pump from CIP1....$159, free shipping and it got here in two days......if I could only get German supply to send the fuel hose faster :smt075

Okay, I feel better...should be a fun day of gas bathing

Post by **Amskeptic** » Tue Aug 15, 2006 7:20 pm

Man this has more suspense than 24's Jack Bauer's trip to China on a slow boat. Keep us posted. . . :D
Colin

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Fuel pump issues/replacement options

Fuel pump issues/replacement options