Itinerant Air-Cooled

Hello kind forum,

Simply put: my ignition is getting stiff. When I turn the key to start the bus, there's some resistance. It kind of feels like there's some gunk in there that prevents the smooth operation of the ignition.

Can I spray some silicone into the key slot? WD-40?

Thanks,

James

I'd take it apart, not the plastic ignition switch with the wires but the rest of it. Clean and new light grease

I have an early bus (69). Do I have to remove the steering column to get at the assembly?

appetite wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 23, 2018 1:46 pm

I have an early bus (69). Do I have to remove the steering column to get at the assembly?

Feel free to do a little squirt of WD-40 at the top of the circle of the key cylinder as you turn it. Also, do a little wetten of the key teeth before your insert it. If you can get a WD-40 straw between the steering wheel and the turn signal switch bezel just over the key area where you think the deadbolt is located, squirt between the steering shaft and column, then turn the wheel back and forth a bit, remove key, see if you get a steering lock. If yes, only turn the key to unlock AS you pull against the steering wheel to unload the deadbolt.

If the above yields no improvement, then yes, the early bus has a more diabolical disassembly process waiting with your name on it.
Colin

I might suggest using a bit of graphite lube that’s made for locks. I was experiencing an ignition that would sometimes just get stuck and wouldn’t turn at all. Then sprayed a bit of graphite into the barrel and it’s been working perfect ever since.

The early bay key switch assembly has two main components: the mechanical lock cylinder and the electrical switch portion. It would be worth pulling the electrical portion out (because it’s easy) and trying the mechanical cylinder by itself to isolate where the problem lies.

On an early early bay (pre-71?) two SMALL screws hold the electrical components in after you’ve removed the four large Phillips head screws under the steering column support and tilted the wheel/column back a few inches. I would disconnect the battery first, because there is an unfused hot wire in there.

Robbie

OK, thanks all.

I will try the WD-40 and graphite remedies and see if that loosens things up. The weather here in NJ promises maybe another two weeks of bus driving, then we tuck it away until the first big rain of the spring washes away all the road salt of winter. I'll wait for next year for more invasive measures.

Projects for the winter include recovering the drivers seat and maybe finally getting back to the guy who offered a spare engine from a 73/74 Ghia:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13457

Dreaming of warm weather...

James

appetite wrote: ↑

Tue Oct 30, 2018 3:00 pm

OK, thanks all.

I will try the WD-40 and graphite remedies and see if that loosens things up. The weather here in NJ promises maybe another two weeks of bus driving, then we tuck it away until the first big rain of the spring washes away all the road salt of winter. I'll wait for next year for more invasive measures.

Projects for the winter include recovering the drivers seat and maybe finally getting back to the guy who offered a spare engine from a 73/74 Ghia:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=13457

Dreaming of warm weather...

James

No graphite at the ignition switch, it can cause shorts. Just do the WD-40 and report back. Next step is a non-graphite disassembly and lubrication with silicone grease near the plastic bits and good moly at the deadbolt.

Ghia engine is only a possible IF it has the mounting holes in the case for your mustache bar. Type 2, Type 3, and universal cases have those critical mounting holes. If it does not have the three factory mounting holes (with factory supplied steel threaded inserts!) NO.
James? No.
No oil pump adapter allowed.
Colin

Well I’d listen to Colin on the sticky lock but no ill effects using graphite on mine so far. I have always heard to only use graphite because anything else eventually gums up and gets sticky again.

71whitewesty wrote: ↑

Wed Oct 31, 2018 8:31 am

Well I’d listen to Colin on the sticky lock but no ill effects using graphite on mine so far. I have always heard to only use graphite because anything else eventually gums up and gets sticky again.

Graphite is excellent and is called-for for all door locks on the exterior because of what you wrote, yes.

Graphite is potentially dangerous if it falls into the ignition switch and causes a conductive track between let's say #30 and #50 at 55 mph. You wouldn't necessarily hear it up in the driver's seat.
"Daddy, what's that sound?"
"Be quiet kid, you bother me."
"But . . . "

Reporting back on this issue...

After a week of rain, all of the road salt has been washed away and today's temps were perfect for taking the bus out of hibernation for the first time this season.

After installing the battery, checking fuel lines and dutifully performing other sundry maintenance chores, I addressed the stiff ignition as per Colin's advice, with some squirts of WD40. Perhaps the squirts were too generous: on our inaugural ride, I had a bit of a drip of the slippery stuff rolling down the steering column.

Still, the twist of the key is smoother and less, well, stiff.

Hoping that's all there is to it.

James

appetite wrote: ↑

Sun Mar 24, 2019 3:09 pm

Reporting back on this issue...

After a week of rain, all of the road salt has been washed away and today's temps were perfect for taking the bus out of hibernation for the first time this season.

After installing the battery, checking fuel lines and dutifully performing other sundry maintenance chores, I addressed the stiff ignition as per Colin's advice, with some squirts of WD40. Perhaps the squirts were too generous: on our inaugural ride, I had a bit of a drip of the slippery stuff rolling down the steering column.

Still, the twist of the key is smoother and less, well, stiff.

Hoping that's all there is to it.

James

And that is all there is to it . . .

...and in my experience likely to get better as you use it and the greasy goodness makes it’s way through they system.

I guess Gypsie doesn’t get around here much anymore.

Kubelwagen wrote: ↑

Mon Apr 01, 2019 3:43 pm

...and in my experience likely to get better as you use it and the greasy goodness makes it’s way through they system.

I guess Gypsie doesn’t get around here much anymore.

Speaking of greasy goodness? Ewwwwwwwwww.
Colin

Following up on this repair.

WD40 in generous amounts was the remedy. Worked wonders.

Thanks Colin.