Itinerant Air-Cooled

I'm in Oregon, we have hills.

Mike Boell wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 01, 2018 6:22 am

I too have my finger on the trigger but can not decide on the added cost for the ceramic coating.

As Len put it, the coating is cheap insurance if you drive hard. I don't drive hard, but a Vanagon is a brick on wheels. The slightest headwind, and I lose 5mph. So, I figured it worthwhile. I, too, have a dream of long hauls...

cegammel wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 01, 2018 1:25 pm

Mike Boell wrote: ↑

Fri Jun 01, 2018 6:22 am

I too have my finger on the trigger but can not decide on the added cost for the ceramic coating.

As Len put it, the coating is cheap insurance if you drive hard. I don't drive hard, but a Vanagon is a brick on wheels. The slightest headwind, and I lose 5mph. So, I figured it worthwhile. I, too, have a dream of long hauls...

No. The Vanagon is at a whole higher level of aerodynamic slipstream svelte than any baywindow bus. It weighs only 300 lbs more than a baywindow bus. It is so civilized that people think it is a stone because it is lacking in the drama that amuses us baywindow owners.

That said, get the coating. It will pay for itself in 60,000 miles of better fuel economy because you can lean out more. Ask Len what are acceptable CHTs with the coating . . . let us know.
Colin

Alrighty...I need help.

I have not started the van in about two months. I just pushed on the #4 cylinder rocker arms, and both lifters, intake and exhaust, moved in, with the intake requiring very little pressure and making a squeaky / squishy noise.

Given that the engine has not run, and there is no oil pressure, should the lifters move?

I am terrified of putting my new heads on a crappy lifter.

What is the absolute correct method of lifter testing?

Thanks for your help!

cegammel wrote: ↑

Mon Jul 16, 2018 10:22 am

Alrighty...I need help.

I have not started the van in about two months. I just pushed on the #4 cylinder rocker arms, and both lifters, intake and exhaust, moved in, with the intake requiring very little pressure and making a squeaky / squishy noise.

Given that the engine has not run, and there is no oil pressure, should the lifters move?

I am terrified of putting my new heads on a crappy lifter.

What is the absolute correct method of lifter testing?

Thanks for your help!

Remove them, disassemble them, clean them, assemble them in a bucket of oil.
OR
try to start the engine and let it pump up the lifters until they are quiet.

You CAN successfully:
a) remove them as necessary after engine assembly
b) adjust the lifters whether or not they are pumped up at the time of adjustment.
Colin

So...I am worrying too much?

So I bought a new toy...an OTC cylinder head leak down tester. I have exhaust leakage from the problematic #4, as well as what I think is a significant leak between head and cylinder. New heads come tomorrow! No confirmation from BD yet on my seals...

Engine is out and stripped. #4 exhaust is recessed. I'll post photos soon of the cylinder dishes...they all look a little scorched to me.

My adjustment screws are pitted and worn, so it looks like I'm buying a set of those as well.
Is it worth digging through my used parts, or should I plunk down the $120 for new ones?

I also have oil leaks from the top of the engine...and around the cylinders...and the front main seal.

Is it possible to polish valve adjusters?

So the difference in these...worth it, or not?

Okdokie...I have had an oil leak since I put this engine in, but never severe enough to register on the dipstick. I thought it was the front main seal, so I took the opportunity to pull the flywheel and check. I have no sign of leakage anywhere on the front of the engine, just a little clutch dust and grease residue. I have reassembled everything now. I do have oil around the distributor and on top of the case. So, I am going to slap this sucker back in the van and worry about oil next time...

I think in 10k miles or so, I will pull the transaxle and do CVs, clutch, check for leaks again...etc.

I really hope I didn't screw anything up...

God bless this car. Now having exhaust issues. May have to back Len's exhaust studs out, put on the header, then put studs back. It seems that buying a new 3/4 side header is not an option for the Cal. spec vans...

cegammel wrote: ↑

Sat Aug 11, 2018 2:42 pm

God bless this car. Now having exhaust issues. May have to back Len's exhaust studs out, put on the header, then put studs back. It seems that buying a new 3/4 side header is not an option for the Cal. spec vans...

Why on Earth would you disturb the exhaust studs? You may wallow out the flange hole, you may bend and twist the flange if the studs are not meeting up with the holes, but leave those studs alone if you can.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote: ↑

Tue Aug 14, 2018 6:42 pm

Why on Earth would you disturb the exhaust studs? You may wallow out the flange hole, you may bend and twist the flange if the studs are not meeting up with the holes, but leave those studs alone if you can.
Colin

I have to say, that yes, mucking with the studs is bad juju ... I would probably still be running my smoothly running, although well worn engine if I had not decided to replace the studs 10 years ago, because, you know, people recommend doing these things 'while you are in there'. those exhaust studs need every bit of thead of thread inside the head that they can grab.

Heating that elbow fixed the problem nicely. Unfortunately, I had already backed them out and reset them before realizing that fact. I did speak with Len first, and all is Kosher... I hope.