Cheap #@&^^% Ignition Switches

[RussellK]

What the heck? I've gone through 3 in the last year. This last time I was so sure it couldn't be another switch I had a local guy rebuild the starter. Installed the rebuilt and nothing. Tracked the wire from the switch and its all solid - no shorts. Took out the switch and sure enough a fail at the starting position. I think its 50 and 36 or maybe 30 for the posts. Bought a new switch at O'Reilly for $36 and the counter guy said lifetime warranty. Opened up the old new switch and the ground post inside is burnt like it cant handle the current. I bough a remote starter to carry in the glove box in case I ever need it to get home. Frustrating.

[tristessa]

For whatever it's worth, I installed the switch from a late '80s Golf (MK2) that I pulled from the wrecking yard in my '75 about seven years ago and it's been working fine.

Check the tab on the back of your lock cylinder for wear. When that happens (not if), it doesn't fully engage the switch into the start position, and over time can cause the contacts to burn .. been there done that.

[airkooledchris]

I replaced mine about a year and a half ago. It's already shot.

Ive got a pushbutton switch that I never disabled (from the PO) thankfully, as a backup. Until someone finds a suitable replacement ill just leave it as is now.

[Mike Boell]

Ive got a pushbutton switch that I never disabled.

Just like those new fancy cars

[Amskeptic]

Who here has informed their vendors of this inadequate performance from their new switches?
Colin

[airkooledchris]

I don't know where I bought my replacement one anymore unfortunately.

Scott from Germansupply.com actually pointed out this issue back in 2004 on TS. Apparently only the OE part works correctly long term, but it's $90 compared to the $24 replacement switch, and the OE isn't being made anymore so once they are gone - their gone.

CIP1 and everyone else carries the cheap replacement one. CIP actually has them for $8 now.

I wish there was a middle ground between $90 parts that work and $8 parts that fail within a year.

[tristessa]

I wish there was a middle ground between $90 parts that work and $8 parts that fail within a year.

^^^ THIS ^^^

[chachi]

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[tristessa]

Battery connections clean & tight?

[chachi]

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[RussellK]

Who here has informed their vendors of this inadequate performance from their new switches?
Colin

I bought this last switch from O'Reilly's because my local VW parts shop was closed for vacation. I've commiserated with the local shop about poor quality parts including switches before and he's as frustrated as we are about the quality of parts. When he started some 20 years ago he had one shelf allocated to parts needing to be returned to suppliers. Now he has an entire store-room.

[RussellK]

yeah, first tried replacing my worn battery ground strap with no change. i can only assume that because i get full power at the "on" position (enough to fix and check my plate light...finally) that the connections are good.

I'd check the wires to the starter solenoid too.

[Amskeptic]

walked out to the bus, which has been running and shifting great, turned the key, powered on great with all lights, then turned it to start and everything blacked out. i can only assume it's the starter switch, no? all signs point to yes. any other easy gotchas?

Battery terminals!
It was the starter load that blacked everything out. A big load on a slightly loose post will cause an instant oxidation.
Colin

[chachi]

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[jtauxe]

Has anyone tried this one? WW says it's "German"...
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/Detai ... 1905865LGR

I just ordered 3 of these, for 3 buses with FUBAR'ed ignition switches... I hope it works.