Heater cable broke

[72Hardtop]

Will need to replace the heater cable on the passenger side. It's broke about four inches before the barrel clamp that connects it to the junction box. How difficult a job is this as far as routing the cable thru the tube front to back or is it vise versa?

No issues with cable prior to this. Cable controls were both functional so I have no reason to believe the cable is frozen in the line anywhere.

[SlowLane]

A quick field fix is to bend the broken cable tip into a hook and use some wire to extend the cable back to the barrel connector. This will only work if there's enough of the cable left protruding with the heater control fully on. I did this on my first Beetle using some electrical hookup wire and it held together for months, maybe even years. Remember to snip the hook off when you go to pull the cable out for replacement.

I'm pretty sure the cable needs to be fed in from the front. Can't remember how much trouble it is to get to inside the dash on a bus. In a Vanagon it's a bloody PITA.

[72Hardtop]

I was debating whether to try snipping a section off a wire hanger and using some crimps of some kind on each end to hold the hanger wire in place...essentially mending the broken wire so to speak. Any ideas as to what can be used to crimp the wire hanger piece in place with? There is about 5 inches or so of wire protruding from the tube itself.

[JLT]

In a Vanagon it's a bloody PITA.

It is in a bus, too. But if the old one slides out easily, the battle's half won.

When one broke on my bus, I happened to have the engine out, which made it easier. I decided to replace them both, on the theory that the other one was not far behind the first one.

[bajaman72]

I was debating whether to try snipping a section off a wire hanger and using some crimps of some kind on each end to hold the hanger wire in place...essentially mending the broken wire so to speak. Any ideas as to what can be used to crimp the wire hanger piece in place with? There is about 5 inches or so of wire protruding from the tube itself.

Try a barrel nut. Like for the throttle.

[ruckman101]

Blush. Been avoiding the task myself. Bought the cable years ago. For far too long I've crawled under my bus and wired the heat exchanger flap open in the fall when it get's cold and undone the wire in the spring when I get too warm.


neal

[vdubyah73]

barrel clamp the broken piece to the remaining cable and adjust for full movement. mine has been like that for 6 years now.

i know, i'm a hack.

[satchmo]

In addition to the above, what is the consensus regarding the installation of new cables to prevent future corrosion: Oil or silicone lube inside the cable sheath? Grease or oil on outside of cable sheath prior to insertion into tube? Is there a boot available for the front of the cable tubes?

Thanks.

I'm thinking the heater cables are similar to the ones on a bicycle and those have a plastic inner liner best lubed with silicone or even teflon lube like they have for chains.

Tim

[bigbore]

I have replaced many of these cables and it has to be done from the front pushed in to the rear. I have had a few that were stuck in the steel tube and they can be a bugger to get out but all of them came out finely. When they are stuck I clamp a pair of vise grip pliers on and pull the cable housing will come unraveled but keep pulling till it all comes out.

[chachi]

...

[grandfatherjim]

I just replaced mine the other day, on our 72. It wasn't hard at all. I did both while I was at it. You do have to feed them in from the passenger compartment.
If I remember correctly, they are a specific length in 72, so be sure to get the right ones. I think there are a few places selling the more common sizes from other years and pretending they will also fit a 72. I'm pretty sure the passenger one was 4125 mm, but I forget the driver's side. It was not 4125 mm.
There did not seem to be enough of the outer steel tube protruding to be able to put a rubber boot on them. I meant to fill that area with grease. I hope I remember this tomorrow.
Jim

[72Hardtop]

Update:

I replaced the cable with a new one. The R/R was easy. No binding in the old cable upon removal. Thank you California for all those dry seasons

[Amskeptic]

In addition to the above, what is the consensus regarding the installation of new cables to prevent future corrosion: Oil or silicone lube inside the cable sheath? Grease or oil on outside of cable sheath prior to insertion into tube?

All of the above . . . where applicable.
Colin

[Hippie]

I like to use motorcycle cable lube--you know the kit that sort of clamps on the cable sheath so you can power-squirt oil in there from the aerosol can.