1600 Damper Pipe Exhaust Leak

[sped372]

Supposedly these are different and are *only* for the damper connection. I haven't personally measured the diameter of the pipes to compare the H.E. vs. Tail dimensions. I'm waiting to hear back on the shipping but he's only asking $2/ea for the donut which seems reasonable... if it seals the blasted leak.

[Amskeptic]

Supposedly these are different and are *only* for the damper connection. I haven't personally measured the diameter of the pipes to compare the H.E. vs. Tail dimensions. I'm waiting to hear back on the shipping but he's only asking $2/ea for the donut which seems reasonable... if it seals the blasted leak.

Tailpipe is smaller. How you ask? Why would the tailpipe be smaller? Because exhaust contracts as it cools, that's why.
Colin

[asiab3]

I did the clamps like that on the engine almost into Gretchen Ghia. It just seemed like it would be easier to get to need be when it was in the car.
Didn't go RTV on the mesh gaskets. Still could I guess.


neal

The clamps have very little grab at their centers against the radius of the pipe exiting. They are meaty at their edges where we want to sandwich the ring/mesh/flange. Most factory assembly photos show the vertical bolt/nuts. YMMV.

I'm getting rid of the Vintage Speed Bazooka Exhaust today and getting my ceramic coated stock Ernst back on. I'm seeing Bentley E&C figure 5.1 showing the damper pipe clamp with bolts vertical and heat exchanger to muffler clamp with bolts horizontal. This in in my 1974 edition of the Bentley. Was this updated in a later version, an oversight, or errata?

Muffler removal instructions also mention "M8 self-locking nuts." In all my muffler kits I have seen copper M8 nuts with a flat side and semi-rounded side. Are these self-locking by their natural metallurgy? I have never seen or used washers with them on exhaust studs.

Thanks to those of you who struggled with the clamps, leaks, and Ultra Orange so that I may learn from your experiences.

[sped372]

As an update to this, I think my damper leak is actually cured but now I've noticed one at the heat-exchanger to muffler connection as well. Leakiness springs eternal?

[Amskeptic]

As an update to this, I think my damper leak is actually cured but now I've noticed one at the heat-exchanger to muffler connection as well. Leakiness springs eternal?

I have had eight discrete new leaks at the heat exchanger to muffler connections. Crap exhaust hardware.

Really.

You have to have robust conical washers to squeeze the donut gaskets as you tighten the clamps.
These flimsy skinny little conical washers just fold at the parting lines of the clamps. I have had so much exhaust poisoning in Chloe from these cynical parts I oughtta sue.
Colin
(will weld on triangular flanges next muffler)

[sped372]

Yeah I cringe when I take it apart and the washer has nice creases in it. Just great.

[asiab3]

re: Orientation of clamps:

The name of the game is actually "clear the damn moustache bar..."

Since the HE connections are straight, orientation doesn't matter, right? Got it on last night and I'm lovving the light purr and tick tick tick tick and proper heat risers and quieter cruising.

[Amskeptic]

The name of the game is actually "clear the damn moustache bar..."
I'm lovving the light purr and tick tick tick tick proper heat risers and quieter cruising.

I attacked my mustache bar with a dremel to make wrench room. clamps have a slight cant to them for "no-touch nobody" orientation.
Colin

[asiab3]

The name of the game is actually "clear the damn moustache bar..."
I'm lovving the light purr and tick tick tick tick proper heat risers and quieter cruising.

I attacked my mustache bar with a dremel to make wrench room. clamps have a slight cant to them for "no-touch nobody" orientation.
Colin

My PO did the same to my mustache bar. How the heck did these cars come from the factory???

Is the "flange weld" an approved hack?

In other news, I had to dismantle and reshape the right side kidney/small heat exchanger pod. Three hours with vice grips and body hammers and I FINALLY got it to line up both with the main heat exchanger and fresh air tube hole. Not even CLOSE from Bus Depot.

RobbieAlreadyComplainedOnce

[Amskeptic]

I had to dismantle and reshape the right side kidney/small heat exchanger pod. Three hours with vice grips and body hammers and I FINALLY got it to line up both with the main heat exchanger and fresh air tube hole. Not even CLOSE from Bus Depot.

RobbieAlreadyComplainedOnce

Classic Dansk shoddy contemptible disregard. It is a Dansk?
Dansk is on my Belatedly Discovered junk list.
Keep an eye out for Leistritz.
Colin

[asiab3]

I had to dismantle and reshape the right side kidney/small heat exchanger pod. Three hours with vice grips and body hammers and I FINALLY got it to line up both with the main heat exchanger and fresh air tube hole. Not even CLOSE from Bus Depot.

RobbieAlreadyComplainedOnce

Classic Dansk shoddy contemptible disregard. It is a Dansk?
Dansk is on my Belatedly Discovered junk list.
Keep an eye out for Leistritz.
Colin

Ernst. I've only heard crap about Dank. Still looking for Leistritz.

[ruckman101]

Dang it. Gots my new stock german muffler, all boned up on doctoring the clamps, straightened dented flanges, got the little barrels into the bubbles the fresh air hoses heater hoses connect to, and no fittee.

Snug at the heads, but the pipes of the heat exchangers are far from close, hitting wide, and I have no gaskets, or I would loosen them up, fit and tighten. I really don't want to be trying to bend them a touch with a BFH, or crowbar approach. Thought about augmenting the used gaskets with hi-temp ATV, since I have it for the clamps, but isn't one of the points of metal gaskets proper heat transfer between the exchanger pipe and the heads? Would I be creating a hot spot on my heads?

Annoying. And I bet tomorrow morning it will be exactly the same.

Anyone have any suggestions? Double up with the used gaskets at the exhaust added to the exchanger connection? Krikey.


neal

[Amskeptic]

Dang it. Gots my new stock german muffler, all boned up on doctoring the clamps, straightened dented flanges, got the little barrels into the bubbles the fresh air hoses heater hoses connect to, and no fittee.

Snug at the heads, but the pipes of the heat exchangers are far from close, hitting wide, and I have no gaskets, or I would loosen them up, fit and tighten. I really don't want to be trying to bend them a touch with a BFH, or crowbar approach. Thought about augmenting the used gaskets with hi-temp ATV, since I have it for the clamps, but isn't one of the points of metal gaskets proper heat transfer between the exchanger pipe and the heads? Would I be creating a hot spot on my heads?

Annoying. And I bet tomorrow morning it will be exactly the same.

Anyone have any suggestions? Double up with the used gaskets at the exhaust added to the exchanger connection? Krikey.


neal

Krikey is too soft of a word . . . but you are a gentleman.

You *can* work the bubbles loose on the pipes, and slide them to "best approximate fit" where the sleeves to the exchangers barely make it and the fresh air hose collars barely make it through the rear tin.

All of us *must* inform our vendors of these lousy fitting parts with an explanation at the ready. When our vendors say "that is how we get them", ask what channels of communication are available to speak to their suppliers and the upstream manufacturers. As long as we are docile and passive, nobody is motivated to improve . . . and we spend a lot of time trying to make this stuff work.
Colin

[ruckman101]

I guess I was less than concise in my description. The heater exchange pipes were wide compared to the new German exhaust. I ended up running into town for new gaskets for the heat exchangers. It was still a struggle. Initially I attached the heat risers to the manifold, and then the manifold wouldn't seat on the heads. Backtracked and started with the manifold at the heads, then the heat risers, then began snugging everything down, exchangers, muffler at the heads, risers, manifold. It came together. The clamp on the passenger side was insanely frustrating. How to get fingers and wrenches in there was a trial and a half.

We kind of bumped into the top of well assembly that slid under the apron and dented the old muffler in. This happened after my patch job on the little hole of the muffler. The exhaust leak was louder than ever, and I found no other issues giving it a look. But once out of the bus, you could see the huge gaping hole where the weld had broken around the pipe going into the body on the drivers side, and the muffler itself was resting against the engine tin. Burnt a nice spot on the paint from the heat.

The good news was that the torque on my heads had held. Only two bolts needed to be snugged up, the outers on cylinder #3. The bad news is that because of time constraints, I am still running my "rebuilt" transaxle.


neal

[72Hardtop]

If you want the best in terms of exhaust paste/caulk use the following:

http://hylomar.com/hylomar-product-rang ... -products/

Both can withstand temperatures of 1000*C or 1832*F. It will expand slightly and then harden like steel. It's also carbon monoxide proof and shock/vibration resistant and will provide a gas tight seal.