Is it possible...

[chitwnvw]

Hey,

Newly installled engine...

I went to find TDC on number 1, and I couldn't get the fan to turn by turning the alt bolt. So I jacked up the rear hind quarters of the bus, and with it in gear turned the rear wheels, they do turn but still the fan does not.

Is it possible to have mated the engine to the crank, with a snug fit where they line up and still not have the splined shaft engaged in the crank shaft?

[Amskeptic]

Hey,

Newly installled engine...

I went to find TDC on number 1, and I couldn't get the fan to turn by turning the alt bolt. So I jacked up the rear hind quarters of the bus, and with it in gear turned the rear wheels, they do turn but still the fan does not.

Is it possible to have mated the engine to the crank, with a snug fit where they line up and still not have the splined shaft engaged in the crank shaft?

If both rear wheels are off the ground with the transmission in gear, chances are that as you turn one wheel, the opposing wheel goes in the opposite direction due to the differential. If you have only one wheel off the ground, the leverage required to actually move the engine is going to be impossible in 1st/2nd/3rd gears, and damn close to impossible in 4th.
If you have questions about the engine's ability to rotate, you must investigate.
If the 22mm alternator nut method is merely slipping the belt, try pressing down firmly on the mid-point of the belt and rotate the engine backwards.
Colin

[Hippie]

I don't think it can bolt up without the splines being meshed, but the flywheel could be rubbing on the bellhousing.

[chitwnvw]

So with a fresh day and a fresh outlook, I take another stab at it this morning. I try holding down the belt, still no turning. I look hard at the fan and wonder if it is binding, so I remove it and reinstall it. Now with it seated and the bolts finger tight, it will turn, as soon as I take a socket and hand tighten them with that, no more turning. I thought maybe I had the wrong bolts, that they were too long, so I removed one from another bus and they are spot on. I thought maybe the front seal was standing too proud and the bolts were digging into it, so I shimmed the bolts with another washer...same behavior, hand tighten with a socket and it won't turn anymore.

[SlowLane]

That sounds awfully familiar...

Try this: without the fan, finger tighten your fan bolts into the fan carrier hub until they bottom out on the case or seal. Try this at a few different positions of the crank until you find the "highest" point of interference (ie. fewest number of threads inserted). Measure the distance from the face of the carrier hub to the underside of the bolt head. Compare that to the thickness of the fan. That'll tell you how close you are to interference when the fan is in place.

Oh, and do you have the spacer that goes between the fan and the carrier hub (or, alternatively, the pulley that is used with AC systems)?

[Amskeptic]

That sounds awfully familiar...

Try this: without the fan, finger tighten your fan bolts into the fan carrier hub until they bottom out on the case or seal. Try this at a few different positions of the crank until you find the "highest" point of interference (ie. fewest number of threads inserted). Measure the distance from the face of the carrier hub to the underside of the bolt head. Compare that to the thickness of the fan. That'll tell you how close you are to interference when the fan is in place.

Oh, and do you have the spacer that goes between the fan and the hub flange?

Good call!
Colin
(I wonder if that is it?)

[chitwnvw]

Kahhhhhhnnnnnn!!!!! No spacer!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Indeed, good call and no idea where that sucka wandered off to.

[SlowLane]

Oh, good. That's an easy fix, then (once you dig up the spacer). Not like forgetting to install the cam plug until after the heads are torqued down...

[Amskeptic]

Oh, good. That's an easy fix, then (once you dig up the spacer). Not like forgetting to install the cam plug until after the heads are torqued down...

So tell us .... how it sounded ..... so "familiar" ...

[hambone]

Glad you got it fixed. That stuff is stressful.

[chitwnvw]

The spacer fixed that issue, still not sure how the spacer between the fan and the crank is any different than the washer/shims that I placed under the fan bolt, I will reflect on that.

Now I am not getting power to the fuel pump when I move the afm wiper. Is the path of that current the wire to the relay by the booster fan, then to the coil and then to the double relay?

[Amskeptic]

The spacer fixed that issue, still not sure how the spacer between the fan and the crank is any different than the washer/shims that I placed under the fan bolt, I will reflect on that.

The fan bolt? There are three. Unless you are talking about the center bolt.
The center bolt snugs up the fan hub very specifically to the crankshaft.
That hub has three flanges for the three fan bolts. The hub flanges demand the three hole + one dowel locator spacer washer, to keep the fan away from the housing. It is designed to within two millimeters. Because the a/c buses have the pulley ahead of the fan, that spacer is a must have for buses without a/c. You are trapped by dimensions figured out in 1968.

Now I am not getting power to the fuel pump when I move the afm wiper. Is the path of that current the wire to the relay by the booster fan, then to the coil and then to the double relay?

Fuel Delivery Forum. Now.
Colin