Steering wheel lock

[ruckman101]

Ack! Now I feel bad. Bring it to Nehalem?

Bailing, in the interests of Nehalem, expediency and all, deferring immediate investments in stock components, buying time, and staying on the hill to wire up an ignition start switch.

Crap, that may not work. Maybe Wednesday.


neal

[hambone]

And I was even looking forward to seeing you! Good thing I checked in here...maybe your 2 AM message tells the story, oh I can only imagine.

[ruckman101]

Bertha now sports keyless push button starting like a race car.

Now to get that steering column back together.



neal

[hambone]

You have become the P.O.

[ruckman101]

Stop-gap measure. Actually cleaned up a bit from a P.O., in terms of bare wire splices no more.


neal

[Amskeptic]

You have become the P.O.

Ooowoo ouch, the voice of Conscience ... I love it.
=D>

Don't worry Neal, I am sure that you have not used a drill through the dashboard to mount a plastic toggle switch from Radio Shack to start your bus ... or some other dumbass hack.
Colin

[ruckman101]

lol,

It's true, no new holes were drilled. Manufactured (hacked up) a mounting plate for the ignition module and start button hung from the bolts that mount the fresh air/heat control arm unit.

The original ignition wiring is zip tie bundled under the housing, which is back in place. The turn signal housing isn't tightening down on the column, that's where I left it today. I took off the electrician's tape wrap that I had applied to address just that issue years ago. Wrapping the bare wire splices cured my turn signal/emergency flasher issue. It was immediately blowing the fuse if used.

I was finally able to muscle the key through it's path in the ignition module, and left in the "running" position so that the wheel lock stays retracted.

There were bruises.


neal

[ruckman101]

I'm scratching my head over this.



For the life of me, I don't know why I now have such a huge gap. It wasn't there before.

Here's the stop-gap starting system.



Do headlight modules come in different mounting barrel dimensions? I swapped out the headlight switch, and now it seems humungously larger than the mounting hole in the dash, that's why it is dangling.

And speaking of P.O.s, I inherited this hole.



Gained my brights, turn signals (not self canceling) and emergency flashers, lost the horn.


neal

[Amskeptic]

I'm scratching my head over this.

Headlamp switch should have a ferrule that fills the hole and screws into the switch. The ferrule is the "indexer".

The turn signal switch is adjustable on the column. Loosen the phillips screws and sliding the housing up until you have .040" clearance from the bottom of the steering wheel. THE SELF CANCELLING TAB IS SUPPOSED TO BE ACROSS THE WHEEL! I wrote about that here:

December 9th 2011 Itinerary thread: Home By Thanksgiving

Hi Dick!
Turn signal action is pretty bad. In keeping with the now-fact that Everything Is Wrong with this car, the steering wheel was put on 180* off, so the cancel tab is trying to cancel as I am trying to actuate. The cancel tab is supposed to be *across* from the switch.

I just don't know why I even bother ....
Mom

[ruckman101]

My "indexer" be too big.

And the turn signal switch attaches to the ignition housing, in that there is an indent on the ignition housing that a small lip on the turn signal housing fits to. I could cheat it up, pulling the wires to follow, but then the only thing the signal assembly would be hanging by is the foil tape I already added so that it would fit tight enough not to swivel about. I dunno.

And the cancellation tab on the wheel has been oriented that way since I've had Bertha, I can reorient, but at the moment it's pointless as the tab is above the turn signal at the moment.


Oi,
neal

[Amskeptic]

My "indexer" be too big.

And the turn signal switch attaches to the ignition housing, in that there is an indent on the ignition housing that a small lip on the turn signal housing fits to. I could cheat it up, pulling the wires to follow, but then the only thing the signal assembly would be hanging by is the foil tape I already added so that it would fit tight enough not to swivel about. I dunno.

And the cancellation tab on the wheel has been oriented that way since I've had Bertha, I can reorient, but at the moment it's pointless as the tab is above the turn signal at the moment.


Oi,
neal

The steering column tube has some vertical give as it passes through the bracket support, no? If the turn signal switch needs to pilot into the column so it doesn't spin around, then the column needs to come up, or the steering shaft itself, with the steering wheel, needs to come down. That would require investigating the steering coupler/box/clamp all of which could have mis-assembly issues.

I do not get your headlamp switch issues. The damn thing came out of there didn't it?
Colin

[ruckman101]

The headlamp switch is a replacement. Swapped it out at Hal's when I was there getting in the way of you and Sluggo last summer.

I'll take a closer look at the steering column tube. Isn't the steering shaft itself static, unless I undo the bolts at the box? Maybe it's a good thing Cheryle didn't use Bertha today.


neal

[ruckman101]

AND, the ignition housing mounts to the plate acting as an impact crumple zone. Very rigid, and I didn't move it. Bentley says the cancellation tab for the turn signals goes on the left. You're confusing me Colin.


neal

[Amskeptic]

AND, the ignition housing mounts to the plate acting as an impact crumple zone. Very rigid, and I didn't move it. Bentley says the cancellation tab for the turn signals goes on the left. You're confusing me Colin.
neal

Me too.
I fixed the TBRRD's totally useless turn signal switch by putting it on the right.
It would not stay in blink position when the tab was on the left. It would shut itself off with any movement of the wheel. Now it stays blinky, and only self cancels if it is a big enough turn to have to wind the wheel 120* or so. I like it.

Now I have to go look at the BobD. It will cost about $400.00 on public transportation. Then I will be broke. But I will have answers ...

The steering column tube is supposed to index into the plastic cover plate bushing down at the bottom. The column has plenty of slide slop in the dash bracket assembly that holds the ignition/steering lock. That impact absorber has plenty of up-and-down give when the column is not anchoring it. See if you can get the ignition/steering lock assembly to pull up on the steering column tube. Though I would normally doubt that the steering shaft/coupler/spline collar are the problem, it has been known to happen that the clamp bolt on the coupler flange is not fully seated on the steering box input shaft. That would make your steering wheel and shaft sit high. Good Luck.
Colin

[ruckman101]

I'm not sure on the turn signal assembly, but the ignition/wheel lock bit is one year only, truly 1970, and much peskier to extract from the housing than later versions. Apparently most folks pick up a used housing. The Woodland yard trotted out the entire column as a replacement option, suggesting replacing the lot would be the quickest resolution. Fortunately the ignition on that was gimped and Cheryle didn't pick it up.

Maybe, maybe, the impact plate the ignition housing mounts to bent down a touch, but it seems pretty stout and unlikely. Didn't disconnect anything at the steering box, just dug into the steering wheel. Now let me clarify, not sure about the Woodland assembly, but when I say column, I mean the outer tube that goes over the steering wheel shaft the wheel actually mounts with splines to.

The column, did indeed yank up at one point. I straightened the tab the horn wire went to and crammed it back in place. That's the only variable in the equation that I can recall may be at issue.

Steering wheel steering. Test drove today to heat up the transmission oil before draining. Ramona's. Checked the level before running in Bertha, and it was low with I think synthetic. Red like automatic transmission fluid. Topped with dino oil. All dino now.


neal