Itinerant Air-Cooled

Jivermo wrote:I am reminded of why my son and his friends refer to you as the "VW bus guy with the Daisy Dukes...".

You tell those youngsters to mind their manners.
I have a name.
I also have an effortless ability to smite them blind with such a grotesque vision of the deterioration of the human organism in its fiftyfifth year slipping the overwhelmed failing threads in the raggedly ripped remnants of repulsively rended denim that it will steal their every reflective moment with a startle reflex, their every contemplative repose for the rest of their lives with a new horrified discomfited distraction that will become them, "he used to be such a happy guy ten, twenty years ago, what happened?" "Oh, we try to get him to verbalize a little, but he just won't leave his shell."

Further reminders available upon request . . .
Duke Daisy - earl of hurl

airkooledchris wrote:The sliding window on the drivers side, bottom corner closest to the driver. Could just be the rust holes likely under the seal the interior panel is already warped, I'd just like to minimize the moisture inside

The rear hatch is worse right now but I have a course of action already for it. I'll squeeze the bus in the garage for a few weeks until I can address both

How's our bondo windshield doing? If leak-free, that thar is an "economical" course of action for any other holes along the window channels.
Colin

Just rained for two days here in Pensacola.

Windshield - leaks at both corners onto the floormat

Sliding door vent window - leaks at pivot and between stationary glass and vent window frame

Left center vent window - leaks somewhere, but is dry on visible inside surfaces

Left rear vent window - same

All glass . . . out we go. It is Caulk Sealer Time.
Colin

What type of caulk sealer? I have used that black butyl from the glass companies before and it did the trick. Silcone sucks!

Bleyseng wrote:What type of caulk sealer? I have used that black butyl from the glass companies before and it did the trick. Silcone sucks!

3M 8509 is what has been recommended.

Everything is butyl black 3M 8509 caulked, vent windows and windshield and side windows. It is repulsive. I am disgusted. Must drive into "flash flood watch". That'll be the test.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:Must drive into "flash flood watch". That'll be the test.
Colin

Drove into flash flood watch up to Atlanta for Christmas, drove back down through heavy rain for a total of 5" rain. I had horribly wet floor in the front of the car that I was about to blame on the windshield, but it turned out to be a passenger door not fully closed all night in the relentless rain.

I had a horribly wet passenger compartment floor under the mat at the left center vent window that turned out not to be the window, but the sloppy cheap rivets that hold the partition panel trim to the back of the wheel well box, so it was accumulated 58 mph tire splash.

We are now dry inside. Period. It is very important to do you very best to keep the interior dry. The destructiveness of a wet interior cannot be overstated.
Colin

Glad to hear it's fixed. Where/how did you apply the caulk. How ugly is it? Pics?

Amskeptic wrote: It is very important to do you very best to keep the interior dry. The destructiveness of a wet interior cannot be overstated.
Colin

Good new years resolution =)

in order:
Rear hatch
drives side slider
door plastic barriers (non-existent currently)
passenger slider (the whole shebang, which somehow isn't leaking into the bus currently, rather straight down through it's own rust holes at the bottom)

zabo wrote:Glad to hear it's fixed. Where/how did you apply the caulk. How ugly is it? Pics?

Pics. You tell me how ugly it is . . .


Outside:



Inside:



Caulk was applied to all seating surfaces as window comes to a close, then both horizontal runs. If I find accelerated rust along the pinchweld the next time these things come out, it will be validation of my fear that sealants keep water in as well as out.
Colin