Itinerant Air-Cooled

While you have it apart now is the time to replace other items as well such as , front & rear seal, oil pressure switch, oil cooler seals, oil filter mount seal etc...

T-4 heads....only 2 I trust these days with them Len Hoffman or Adrian Headflow Masters.

Bought the engine gasket kit on Tuesday along with the main seal. :)

Before I start putting stuff back together, I thought I'd check the oil relief plug and oil pressure relief valve.

I know where the oil relief plug is (lower left of the photo below) but for the life of me I cannot locate the oil pressure relief valve. I've looked at the Bentley and online but I am a visual person. Telling where it's supposed to be isn't the same as showing me where it is located.

So, where is it? It's supposed to be on the flywheel side of the engine.



Thanks!

misszora wrote:Before I start putting stuff back together, I thought I'd check the:
A) oil pressure relief valve

B) oil pressure control valve

a) Relief valve is the big screw deal located at the rear of the engine.

b) Control valve is nestled on the right side of the engine between the #1 pushrod tubes. It sticks out horizontally and has a spline "allen" head.
(hydraulic lifter engines do not have this valve)
Colin

Miss Zora is running! I'll post more details and pictures later but right now I have a problem I need to resolve and am hoping to find a solution here.

There are leaks at the exhaust flanges where the elbows (afterburner pipes) meet the heater boxes toward the front of the bus. The surfaces may not be perfectly flat and I added handmade gaskets made with an exhaust gasket sheet in addition to the thin, metal gaskets that come with the gasket kit to add some squish-ability in hopes of creating a better seal.

I checked the tightness of the nuts this morning and one needed a little tightening but that's it.

Is there an awesome heat resistant sealant that I could smear in between the new gaskets and flanges that would plug up the leaks? [-o<

Other possible solutions:
* Take the mentioned exhaust parts out, take them to a machine shop to get the flanges flattened
* Remove flanges and weld on new flanges
* Switch to an earlier model bus exhaust set up (very costly for me at this point)



Pointing out the location of the exhaust leak. Same on both sides.

Note: these afterburner pipes are married - rust and welding from previous owner? - to both exhaust manifolds. These are also new-to-me pieces that replaced severely cracked exhaust manifolds. (photos to come!)

THANK YOU!

Those U pipes have a way of really rusting away and warping. The first project I ever worked on with Colin was rebuilding my '78 exhaust, like yours. Bite the bullet, and take the thing apart...it could be no more rust welded than mine was. A 4" angle grinder and a Dremel cutting wheel will help. You have the right idea about truing up the mating surfaces. We built mine up,with welding, and then ground them down to reasonably flat. New gaskets and RTV red hi heat (ULTRA-COPPER RTV-edit) did the trick for a year. I keep looking on Samba parts under "exhaust" and gradually renewed my entire exhaust with parts in better condition. Today it's like new, almost. When I get my freaking engine back in, I will actually appreciate it much more. By the way, the Samba currently has several "U" pipes that look pretty good listed right now.

The place where they are married to the exhaust manifold isn't leaking at all. It's the other side where they meet the heater boxes. The rest of the pieces are in good shape...I've gradually replaced them over the years as well. :)

misszora wrote:The place where they are married to the exhaust manifold isn't leaking at all. It's the other side where they meet the heater boxes. The rest of the pieces are in good shape...I've gradually replaced them over the years as well. :)

That is exactly what Jivermo is referring to. Any triangular flange becomes bowed and difficult to seal.
ULTRA-COPPER RTV
Colin

Ah. Thanks!
I'm also looking into a more sealable gasket. Tristessa recommended an Audi catalytic converter gasket - same dimensions as the VW gasket but are thicker. I'll also see if I can file a bit more off the flanges to get a smoother surface and then bring on the ULTRA-COPPER RTV!!!

BTW, MZ is running wonderfully.

misszora wrote:Ah. Thanks!
I'm also looking into a more sealable gasket. Tristessa recommended an Audi catalytic converter gasket - same dimensions as the VW gasket but are thicker. I'll also see if I can file a bit more off the flanges to get a smoother surface and then bring on the ULTRA-COPPER RTV!!!

BTW, MZ is running wonderfully.

=D> . . . and remember, ultra-copper rtv for that fresh air feeling . . .

Compression:
#1 - 118
#2 - 115
#3 - 110
#4 - 115

I'll take it!

I'm always a little jealous of folks who can get compression readings on all four cylinders. I've got a helicoil with a seized in sparkplug on one...guess it is okay...it runs pretty darn good!