µSquirt ( microSquirt ) powered Vanagon ramblings

[Boxcar]

that there is SOME data.

[luftvagon]

Current View:

[Amskeptic]

Current View:
[img

Use words, too . . .
Colin

[luftvagon]

Is it about time to start writing L-Jetronic conversion document?

[Amskeptic]

Is it about time to start writing L-Jetronic conversion document?

Yep. Do you have any data over the summer re:
load/mixture/CHTs/specific fuel consumption?
Colin
(did ya stay clear of tornadoes this summer?)

[luftvagon]

We did - missed us by 5 miles or so. I think you were here post carnage. Where would you like me to start this thread? Electronics or Fuel? Or Type2?

[Amskeptic]

We did - missed us by 5 miles or so. I think you were here post carnage. Where would you like me to start this thread? Electronics or Fuel? Or Type2?

Engine.
Then we can have the full ignition/fuel/engine performance/metallurgy at various temperatures write-up.

[luftvagon]

Well, my "freshly" (2-years/4000 miles) rebuilt alternator, is finally ready to go. After excitement, I'm seeing about 12.3v at 1000 RPM with (100W) lights, and heater booster and heater fan set to 3. Is this thing even charging? The voltage is only slightly better while driving.

This will probably be my last set of "upgrades": a Chevy 105amp alternator (upgradeable to 140), LEDs all around (stoplight,brakelight,blinkers and 30W led headlights).

I do not use engine heat to heat the cabin, so the alternator will adopt much easier not having to worry about squirrel cage.

I wonder how much "cooling" does the squirrel cage provide to the heater boxes? Any issues with not passing some air over the heater boxes?

[Amskeptic]

Well, my "freshly" (2-years/4000 miles) rebuilt alternator, is finally ready to go. After excitement, I'm seeing about 12.3v at 1000 RPM with (100W) lights, and heater booster and heater fan set to 3. Is this thing even charging? The voltage is only slightly better while driving.

This will probably be my last set of "upgrades": a Chevy 105amp alternator (upgradeable to 140), LEDs all around (stoplight,brakelight,blinkers and 30W led headlights).

I do not use engine heat to heat the cabin, so the alternator will adopt much easier not having to worry about squirrel cage.

I wonder how much "cooling" does the squirrel cage provide to the heater boxes? Any issues with not passing some air over the heater boxes?

Does your engine cooling fan contribute to the heater box fresh air fund with two little ducts sprouting off the bottom of the fan housing to the exchangers? If so, you're good. The heat exchangers have to have airflow at all times to cool the exhaust pipes coming off the heads, which in turn helps draw heat from the heads/exhaust valve seats.
Colin
Colin

[luftvagon]

The van that delivers....

[luftvagon]

long stretch on I-40 with a slight incline - a stretch Colin and I did some tuning on last year.

Gear (not pictured) = 4th
RPM = 3303
Ignition = 23.4 degrees BTDC
Engine Temperature (picked up on #3 cyl intake runner bolt) = 156 F
Ambient Temperature measured on intake = 116 F
Barometric Pressure (not pictured) = 101.9 kPa (30.11 inHg)
Manifold Absolute Pressure = 89.5 kPa (26.43 inHg)
Engine Vacuum: 101.9 kPa (ambient) - 89.5 kPa (MAP) = 3.66 inHg
AFR = 13.7

250 mile trip MPG (pulling a trailer and 1 bike 125 miles, and returning with two bikes, and 1 additional passenger) = 17.33 MPG

For the most of the time, I kept the engine at 3200-3400 RPM, at 70-75 kPa MAP (~8 inHg vacuum), ~28-32 BTDC, 14 AFR, and transmission in 4th gear.

=D>

[SlowLane]

Well, my "freshly" (2-years/4000 miles) rebuilt alternator, is finally ready to go. After excitement, I'm seeing about 12.3v at 1000 RPM with (100W) lights, and heater booster and heater fan set to 3. Is this thing even charging? The voltage is only slightly better while driving.

This will probably be my last set of "upgrades": a Chevy 105amp alternator (upgradeable to 140), LEDs all around (stoplight,brakelight,blinkers and 30W led headlights).

I do not use engine heat to heat the cabin, so the alternator will adopt much easier not having to worry about squirrel cage.

I wonder how much "cooling" does the squirrel cage provide to the heater boxes? Any issues with not passing some air over the heater boxes?

Does your engine cooling fan contribute to the heater box fresh air fund with two little ducts sprouting off the bottom of the fan housing to the exchangers? If so, you're good. The heat exchangers have to have airflow at all times to cool the exhaust pipes coming off the heads, which in turn helps draw heat from the heads/exhaust valve seats.

Hang on a minute, Luft. Our Vanagons don't have the "two little ducts" Colin is referring to here, which are a feature of the late Bays.
As you're likely aware, the heater boxes are cooled full-time by the squirrel-cage fan bolted to the alternator shaft. By full-time, I mean whether you are using cabin heat or not. Deleting that squirrel-cage fan in quest of more alternator current will have deleterious effects on your engine's heat-shedding ability. Tread cautiously.

FWIW, I upgraded my Westy'y running lights to LEDs using GoWesty's kit. At $180, it seemed pretty pricey, as per GoWesty's reputation, but I found as I shopped around for the individual LED pieces that their price for the kit wasn't too far off the mark, and they had already done the research to figure out which light works best in each location. The LEDs are a major improvement in brightness over the incandescent bulbs, but I doubt that I'm saving much in the way of current draw

I also splurged on a pair of TruckLite 27270C LED headlamps. They were designed for the long-haul trucking industry, but seem to be very popular with the Jeep and Harley crowds. Very nice. Bright as all heck. There is an "X"-shaped bright spot in the beam pattern that some people report as distracting, but it doesn't bother me much. Colin, I was going to mention that a pair of these might aid in alleviating Chloe's long-suffering generator.

Each Trucklite 27270C draws:
@ 12.8v: 1.80a (low beam), 3.60 amps (high beam) = 23W low beam, 46W high beam

I also see a large drop in voltage when I turn on the fresh air fan, but I think that might be because my dash-mounted voltmeter is measuring voltage in the dashboard, rather than directly across the battery.

[luftvagon]

Hey SlowLane. I have kept my original (rebuilt) alternator for now. It turns out I was measuring voltage incorrectly using ECU built in voltage meter, thinking that was what was being fed to the battery. This did not click with me, until I actually sat down to think about it. That voltage is actually at ECU to be used to compensate for injector opening. I have about 1v drop from battery to the ECU (12.6v) using the factory harness that once used to power double relay (#30?)...

a non issue, as far as my system is concerned. my system compensates well even-though voltage compensation is linear, while in reality not.. but averaging works ok.

Actually, if anyone else can measure their voltage on #30 @ double relay, and let me know what numbers you are seeing. I may just run a new 6 gauge wire from the battery directly to my system's version of "double relay".

[SlowLane]

Hi Luft. Here's something you might be interested in. It's a universal laptop power adapter which accepts both 120VAC and 12VDC inputs. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MDH6KP2

I have one of these units and can attest that it "feels" like a solid piece of work. Comes with ten adapters to fit a wide variety of laptops. The adapter used dictates what voltage the unit will supply to the laptop. Quite a clever bit of engineering.

Oh, yes, in reviewing your engine photo, I note you are using zip ties to bundle your spark plug wires together. You might want to look into investing in some ignition cable spacers instead...

I'm presently grumbling over the fact that my two-month-old genuine Bosch reman alternator is making moaning noises under all conditions. Fortunately I still have my original alternator and there is an auto-electric guy here in town who has a stellar reputation. Time for a professional rebuild, methinks.

Update: I just found an outfit which purports to make a 120A alternator for the '80-'83 air-cooled Vanagon: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_447/VW-Vanagon.htm At $270, it's rather pricey, but it might be worth a query.

[Amskeptic]

Hi Luft. I note you are using zip ties to bundle your spark plug wires together. You might want to look into investing in some ignition cable spacers instead...

Good call, Slow Lane. You always were my favorite.

Luft, how could you? Why can't you be more like Slow Lane?

Colin (channeling my 3rd grade teacher)

(looks like your manifold absolute pressure plus engine vacuum = barometric. That would make sense and all. For the readership, less that and more cylinder head temp reading?)