'72 Westy top refurbish and canvas replacement
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
- Status: Offline
'72 Westy top refurbish and canvas replacement
I'm finally getting around to a project I've been procrastinating for about a year now. Most of it has to do with correcting some lame half-ass fixes by the PO. I've gone with the German Westy tent from Bus Depot - the expensive one OUCH. Luckily, I'm not planning on doing this again anytime soon
A few questions and solicitations for advice.
Is there supposed to be some type of rubber sealing strip that is supposed to go beneath the front portion of luggage rack and the roof metal? seems water can enter the luggage rack area then comes under and into contact with the rear bottom portion of the tent.
Instead of fixing two broken rubber poptop holddowns, PO put a huge bolt that goes all the way through the fiberglass top, metal roof, and the headliner. I'm undoing all of this. fiberglass kit repair to the top, metal repair to the roof (I don't weld, so any recommendations for that?), and installation of a salvaged OG wood front headliner I got from BustedBus that is in decent shape.
Although my bus had a paint job several years ago, the very top was not painted, you can see where the pain stops, so I'd like to finish the job on the fiberglass. The luggage rack bars and tie down hooks are rusted and need some TLC. Were the bars painted originally, what color??
The rubber bushings are really crusty too as you can see - any recommendations for replacements if there is such a thing?
As for the actual paint on the roof, you can see it is original but pretty moisture starved. I'm planning on some good old fashioned elbow grease for that and I hope to get some shine back.
Any words from the wise on products to use and general advice. Thanks as always.
A few questions and solicitations for advice.
Is there supposed to be some type of rubber sealing strip that is supposed to go beneath the front portion of luggage rack and the roof metal? seems water can enter the luggage rack area then comes under and into contact with the rear bottom portion of the tent.
Instead of fixing two broken rubber poptop holddowns, PO put a huge bolt that goes all the way through the fiberglass top, metal roof, and the headliner. I'm undoing all of this. fiberglass kit repair to the top, metal repair to the roof (I don't weld, so any recommendations for that?), and installation of a salvaged OG wood front headliner I got from BustedBus that is in decent shape.
Although my bus had a paint job several years ago, the very top was not painted, you can see where the pain stops, so I'd like to finish the job on the fiberglass. The luggage rack bars and tie down hooks are rusted and need some TLC. Were the bars painted originally, what color??
The rubber bushings are really crusty too as you can see - any recommendations for replacements if there is such a thing?
As for the actual paint on the roof, you can see it is original but pretty moisture starved. I'm planning on some good old fashioned elbow grease for that and I hope to get some shine back.
Any words from the wise on products to use and general advice. Thanks as always.
-'72 Westy-
- deschutestrout
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Maupin, Oregon
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Jeepers Troy, looks like you're undertaking a project! Wish I could help with ideas but your treading ground unknown to me. I'm sure others will soon chime. Good luck, I'm sure it will turn out better than what you started with! Gotta luv PO's and the bolts they install...holes they drill, etc. etc. You gonna have this ready by Nehalem?
"You're not always obligated to paint an outhouse." Ruckman 2011
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline
Luggage rack should drain free. You could use silicon caulk on that front part by the tent if you wanted, but it's never been a problem for me.
There is metal filler, in a tube, that you can use when you fix the fiberglass. That it one wacky way to not deal with the pop top straps! Props to the PO.
Paint the luggage rack tie downs with a rust converting primer and then with what ever you want, a silver paint would be nice.
Chi'
There is metal filler, in a tube, that you can use when you fix the fiberglass. That it one wacky way to not deal with the pop top straps! Props to the PO.
Paint the luggage rack tie downs with a rust converting primer and then with what ever you want, a silver paint would be nice.
Chi'
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
- Status: Offline
It is looking like I won't be going to Nehalem. Not because of the bus, but because of my day job Furthermore, I'm pretty sure this may take me a month or two to chip away at - these things tend to take me more time than the average bear. Sure would love to go and see Spiffy again and meet Wayne and others.deschutestrout wrote:Jeepers Troy, looks like you're undertaking a project! Wish I could help with ideas but your treading ground unknown to me. I'm sure others will soon chime. Good luck, I'm sure it will turn out better than what you started with! Gotta luv PO's and the bolts they install...holes they drill, etc. etc. You gonna have this ready by Nehalem?
POs and their "creativity" have caused many a curse word for us all.
-'72 Westy-
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
- Status: Offline
Thanks Chi - That metal filler sounds like a good idea - since the spot is not really visible and will not encounter moisture, it doesn't have to be perfect. Just thought I should seal up the hole in some way besides a strip of duct tape.chitwnvw wrote:Luggage rack should drain free. You could use silicon caulk on that front part by the tent if you wanted, but it's never been a problem for me.
There is metal filler, in a tube, that you can use when you fix the fiberglass. That it one wacky way to not deal with the pop top straps! Props to the PO.
Paint the luggage rack tie downs with a rust converting primer and then with what ever you want, a silver paint would be nice.
Chi'
-'72 Westy-
- deschutestrout
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Maupin, Oregon
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
- Status: Offline
a little update here -
luggage bars - rivets drilled out wire wheeled and painted (Hammered Rustoleum)
poptop hinges - I'm cleaning these up and need to source and replaceone bolt in the middle on one of them.
poptop and luggage rack - old shatty tent removed, seals removed and adhesive removed along with all the other bits. cut out and fitted a new section of wood.
Like several of my fellow Portland vw enthusiasts (IFBwax, zora, and bookwus), I've decided to call on the services and expertise of William Smith (WILLY) to do a first class job on the fiberglass repairs and painting of my roof and poptop. I know I could have done much of this myself, but I just don't feel I have the equipment to do the job right and I know Willy has these things and the artist's hand with the spray. This morning, I dropped off the bus while my wife hauled the detached pop-top and luggage rack over to Willy's place in Molalla. Willy and his wife have been great to deal with and I'm excited to see how the glassing and paint turn out.
I'll post some pictures soon with how it turns out as well as the work I'm doing on the other stuff.
luggage bars - rivets drilled out wire wheeled and painted (Hammered Rustoleum)
poptop hinges - I'm cleaning these up and need to source and replaceone bolt in the middle on one of them.
poptop and luggage rack - old shatty tent removed, seals removed and adhesive removed along with all the other bits. cut out and fitted a new section of wood.
Like several of my fellow Portland vw enthusiasts (IFBwax, zora, and bookwus), I've decided to call on the services and expertise of William Smith (WILLY) to do a first class job on the fiberglass repairs and painting of my roof and poptop. I know I could have done much of this myself, but I just don't feel I have the equipment to do the job right and I know Willy has these things and the artist's hand with the spray. This morning, I dropped off the bus while my wife hauled the detached pop-top and luggage rack over to Willy's place in Molalla. Willy and his wife have been great to deal with and I'm excited to see how the glassing and paint turn out.
I'll post some pictures soon with how it turns out as well as the work I'm doing on the other stuff.
-'72 Westy-
- gmag69
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Up in smoke man.
- Status: Offline
Please ask Willy if he could post some in progress pics and tell us what he used on the top to fix the fiberglass. I'd like some input on this before I dive into mine this year.
Check out my Westy Resto thread. viewtopic.php?t=2063
bretski wrote:...oh, and we just bombed the moon.
- soulful66
- Addicted!
- Status: Offline
Just a suggestion on the pop top hinges. In 1973, the hinges are a real stout solid metal design, far better than the tube design on the '68 - 72 type. True value has a good selection of metric bolts, but here is a great place to find metric hardwear and hoses ( even steel reinforce brake vacuum hoe ) www.belmetric.com
I am planning on a hightop swap because my canvas is shot on my '72. Best of luck with your project.
Best Regards,
John
I am planning on a hightop swap because my canvas is shot on my '72. Best of luck with your project.
Best Regards,
John
'72 westy 3TC
'73 westy 1700 dual solex
'79 westy 2000 F.I.
'73 westy 1700 dual solex
'79 westy 2000 F.I.
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
- Status: Offline
Willy's wife was planning on shooting some pics and emailing them to me. I know he was planning on doing a simple fiberglass repair on the hole and also glassing in the the new wood section for sturdiness just like it was done back in Germany.gmag69 wrote:Please ask Willy if he could post some in progress pics and tell us what he used on the top to fix the fiberglass. I'd like some input on this before I dive into mine this year.
-'72 Westy-
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
- Status: Offline
First of all, welcome back home. Wish all ya'll were back for good.soulful66 wrote:Just a suggestion on the pop top hinges. In 1973, the hinges are a real stout solid metal design, far better than the tube design on the '68 - 72 type. True value has a good selection of metric bolts, but here is a great place to find metric hardwear and hoses ( even steel reinforce brake vacuum hoe ) www.belmetric.com
I am planning on a hightop swap because my canvas is shot on my '72. Best of luck with your project.
Best Regards,
John
As for the hinges, mine are the original '72 ones. Is the problem that they bend or that they don't function properly. Mine seem to work well. I've introduced them to a gentle wire wheel and some metal polish so they don't make my new tent look like crap. nice and shiny
Before
After
-'72 Westy-
- Oregon72
- IAC Addict!
- Location: Sherwood, Oregon
- Status: Offline
- hambone
- Post-Industrial Non-Secular Mennonite
- Location: Portland, Ore.
- Status: Offline
Lookin good! Way to make the rest of us look bad! (well most of us. You know who you are.)
http://greencascadia.blogspot.com
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat
http://pdxvolksfolks.blogspot.com
it balances on your head just like a mattress balances on a bottle of wine
your brand new leopard skin pillbox hat