I'm missing a stud because the stud boss broke...there is nothing to drill/tap into...that's on the left head. Right head has some funky insert on the #2 cylinder that has a death grip on the spark plug that looks like it has 40k miles on it, but hey, it's still firing! Hence why I need new heads (which is a real shame, because the engine runs good, and the valves never get tight....only slightly loose between checks).sgkent wrote: ↑Sat Jul 22, 2017 12:21 pmthe studs should not come out when you remove it. Only the nuts need to come off. Why you are missing a stud I don't quite understand. Enjoy your trip. you can use a piece of fuel line to listen for where the exhaust leak actually is before you start pulling things off.
I have to remove the stud (right head) not so much to get the manifold off...but to get it back on again. When I drilled one of the tap holes (#2 cylinder) it was slightly of, so the angle it sticks out does not allow me to get the manifold on with all 4 studs in; only way I can do it is to screw out one stud, install the manifold, and then replace the stud. There's no question where the leak is coming from; I fire the engine up cold, and then I can feel it coming out of the #2 exhaust...you have about 30-60 seconds before things get too hot to stick your fingers up there.