Brake Pad Inspection and/or Replacement 77 Type II Bus

[LiveonJG]

Could someone give me a step by step for inspecting (Just what am I looking for?) and replacing the pads in my front disk brakes? I've noticed a slight squeal lately from them. Recommendations on brand/type of pads is appreciated as this will be my first foray into the world of disc brakes.

Thanks

-John

[Amskeptic]

Could someone give me a step by step for inspecting (Just what am I looking for?) and replacing the pads in my front disk brakes? I've noticed a slight squeal lately from them. Recommendations on brand/type of pads is appreciated as this will be my first foray into the world of disc brakes.

(edit the subject header to correct model year if necessary, we need to allow accurate searches)

Loosen lug nuts on both front wheels.
Jack vehicle at center pin cap and torsion leaves retainer set screw at the very center of the beam.
Remove wheels.
Look in the rectangular window of the calipers to see how close the pad backing plates (where the horizontal pins go through) are to the disk. 2mm is the wear limit. Pagid makes decent pads. Bus Depot? Remember that street vendors will try to sell you the skinnier 10mm thick 1971-72 pads for your later bus to save money, you want the correct 14mm pads if your bus is later than '72 which you did not mention but I guessed at.
Colin

[covelo]

Jack vehicle at center pin cap and torsion leaves retainer set screw at the very center of the beam.

Don't mean to question your wisdom, but wouldn't it be safer to have three wheels on the ground rather than having the whole front end sitting on a jack?

[LiveonJG]

Jack vehicle at center pin cap and torsion leaves retainer set screw at the very center of the beam.

Don't mean to question your wisdom, but wouldn't it be safer to have three wheels on the ground rather than having the whole front end sitting on a jack?

Chock rear wheels, set jackstands under frame, one each side. That should do it safety wise.

Colin, changed the subject line.

-John

[hambone]

Yeah, there's a lot you can do with th entire front end jacked up, adjust drum brakes, lube th front end, check the works. It's no big deal to do.

[jtauxe]

I'll be doing this job, soon, too, and have not worked on disc brakes before. So, I've read the procedure in the Bentley, and they say to use new spreader springs. Is this necessary? I've not seen these for sale.

The lovely pictures in the Bentley also show the use of special tools, especially the piston retaining device in Figure 7-6. Can I replace pads without special tools?

Are there any other parts (besides the pads themselves) that I will want to have obtained before going in?

The P.O. left me some pads that were manufactured in Australia... it says they're "organic". WTF?

[spiffy]

No, beware of the scare tactics of the manuals. Judge for yourself...is the spring broken? No? Put them back in. No speshul tools needed.

The pads are all you need, disc brakes are an easy job. Read up and use common sense, wash hands, test drive to check.....done.

[LiveonJG]

What Mike said. A big-ass pair of channel lock pliers is nice to loosen the old pads, otherwise no special tools needed. Remember the Bently was written for mechanics that had shelves of fresh new parts. Consider it more of a guideline.

-John

[Amskeptic]

I do like to emphasize that the shim plates behind the pads really need to be present too. These shim plates have cut-outs to hold the "C" shaped piston contact surface so that the gap of the "C" is facing down. This trick prevents squealing.
Colin

[Sluggo]

I do like to emphasize that the shim plates behind the pads really need to be present too. These shim plates have cut-outs to hold the "C" shaped piston contact surface so that the gap of the "C" is facing down. This trick prevents squealing.
Colin

I made this mistake. Left off the plates. Squealing is an understatement. I sounded like an old steam engine locomotive coming to a stop.

[jtauxe]

I do like to emphasize that the shim plates behind the pads really need to be present too. These shim plates have cut-outs to hold the "C" shaped piston contact surface so that the gap of the "C" is facing down. This trick prevents squealing.
Colin

Are these shim plates part of the pads, or a separate piece? I'll need to examine the Bentley...
If they are part of the existing setup, can I reuse them, or should I expect new pads to come with new shim plates? Is it obvious how this is to go together?

Any comments on the "organic" Australian pads? Any reason not to try them?

[LiveonJG]

Are these shim plates part of the pads, or a separate piece? I'll need to examine the Bentley...
If they are part of the existing setup, can I reuse them, or should I expect new pads to come with new shim plates? Is it obvious how this is to go together?

Any comments on the "organic" Australian pads? Any reason not to try them?

They are separate pieces and they sit between the pad and the piston. You will need to reuse them as they do not come with new pads. If you have them, it's obvious how they fit in. If you don't, it may take some time to track them down. Lets hope you have them.

As for you're "organic" Australian pads, google organic brake pads and you'll discover that that just means they have no metal in them. It doesn't mean they are "organic" in the marketing sense. As far as I know, they should be fine to use.

-John

[Ritter]

I believe Bus Depot has the shims.

https://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?pa ... =211615232
https://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?pa ... =211615231

[LiveonJG]

I believe Bus Depot has the shims.

https://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?pa ... =211615232
https://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?pa ... =211615231

That's good to know but 12.56 each? That adds up quick.

-John

[Ritter]

At least you've got the part number to shop around!