Itinerant Air-Cooled

werksberg wrote:I can get new fuel pumps.

The carb fuel pump "looks" like the std. type 1 fuel pump and they are cheap.

The listing for a '74 is for a FI and that one is very expensive!

My original 1974 US Westy has a T4, carbs and a mechanical pump that is NOT like the type 1.

I know the pump for T1 is available but not directy compatible for T4.

So, are the carbs exonerated?

werksberg, FI started in 75, so that is an odd listing. I have the stock Solex dual carb of a 74. How much do they want for the pump? I just went under to clean. Everything is dry now, gas all evaporated.

Dilemma: the oil sump is empty because I drained it last night. The oil sat in an open pan all night, and the gas seems to have evaporated. Should I reuse it? (Colin changed it last week and it has about 1 mile of driving on it). Or should I put in the new Castrol I bought? Aren't I likely to contaminate the oil with gas again?

bleh, very frustrating knowing the bus runs but being unable to start it up.

I would use the dirty oil ( unless it is so bad, it doesn' t feel oily when rubbed between fingers ), for a short try.

Birdibus wrote:So, are the carbs exonerated?

werksberg, FI started in 75, so that is an odd listing. I have the stock Solex dual carb of a 74. How much do they want for the pump? I just went under to clean. Everything is dry now, gas all evaporated.

Dilemma: the oil sump is empty because I drained it last night. The oil sat in an open pan all night, and the gas seems to have evaporated. Should I reuse it? (Colin changed it last week and it has about 1 mile of driving on it). Or should I put in the new Castrol I bought? Aren't I likely to contaminate the oil with gas again?

bleh, very frustrating knowing the bus runs but being unable to start it up.

don't get flummoxed. i'd not reuse that oil. think of it as a hot oil enema for your engine. but i would get a cheap oil until things are sorted out.

74 might possibly have been a split year, half dual carbed, half fuel injected.

You can reuse the oil if you filter it thru like a paint or coffee filter and just use it until the fuel pump issue is cured. Then replace with fresh oil & Filter.

I just stated it "LOOKED" like it was a type 1 fuel pump for referance. I'm for sure my hard parts warehouse suppliers have the correct one.

Birdibus wrote:So, are the carbs exonerated?

the oil sump is empty because I drained it last night. The oil sat in an open pan all night, and the gas seems to have evaporated. Should I reuse it?

Birdibus, we have to be focused on our diagnostic progression. The most important indication of The Fuel Issue was the dipstick line. It was almost an inch and a half above the mark when I checked it as I was diagnosing. After our oil change with the oil you had at hand, it was approximately 1/2 quart low.

If the oil level remained the same after driving it, you DO NOT HAVE current fuel contamination occuring in the oil, but you sure as heck have residual fuel all inside the crankcase that is contributing to the fuel smell in your recently drained oil. Did you check the dipstick mark before you drained the oil? I told you that I was going to try to drain the galleries when I did that 8:15PM oil change where I cranked the engine with the oil filter off. But I said that it would take a good 100 miles to clear out the exhaust system and I suggested another oil change (it is never a waste to do a flush oil change) at that time.

It is a good idea to clean the pump dry with GumOut so you can see if there is a fuel leak at the hose connections versus the fuel pump diaphragm, by all means continue with that pursuit.
Colin

twinfalls wrote:I would use the dirty oil ( unless it is so bad, it doesn' t feel oily when rubbed between fingers ), for a short try.

We shall not use the dirty oil. When diluted with gasoline, it is not to be re-used.
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:

twinfalls wrote:I would use the dirty oil ( unless it is so bad, it doesn' t feel oily when rubbed between fingers ), for a short try.

We shall not use the dirty oil. When diluted with gasoline, it is not to be re-used.
Colin

I was telling about a short try to see about the pump. And that was about oil not much contaminated.
I agree, take not chance, don't re-use.

Not to start a fight or an augurament, but is not recycled oil just filtered and maybe some additives added?


For a short time use, reuse and save the planet fossil fuels.

Screw the planet fossil fuels, save the bearings is more appropiate. If it was bad enough to drain, even if it may be okay, once the oil hits the pan it belongs at the recycler.

Gasoline shreds the film strength of oil. I guarantee you you do not want to have gas-contaminated oil in the engine. I use gasoline as a solvent to clean off oil. That is exactly what happens in the engine, plus gasoline stirs up the sediment that naturally deposits in low-flow areas. No no no.
Colinno

good discussion

I just returned from buying "cheap" oil and filter, supertech and purolator. Quaker State oil is on sale right now at wallymat, at least in this area, in case you are interested, $10.99 per 5 qt. bottle. I bought a cheaper brand though. I'm saving the Castrol and Wix for the next oil change. I going to end up with a lot of old oil... hello recycler! and filters... hello trash barrel.

I see two sizes of hose coming from the fuel pump. Can anyone tell me the sizes? Am I seeing all the hoses? My fingers could not find any cracks, but my eyes were blind. Need better light. I tried to find a good post about removing, rebuilding, and/or reinstalling fuel pumps, but found only a little bit. Know any good topics?

twinfalls wrote:Who knows, how bad oil can be used on our AC VW engines ?

In October or November, spray it on the metal parts of the bottom and drive down a dusty gravel road to coat it.
Wash it off in the spring. Prevents rust you see.

From today's conversation with Colin:
It is rare for original mechanical fuel pumps to fail in such a way that gas floods the engine. The pump has a vent and tube at the bottom for such emergencies, spilling the gas onto the ground instead of down the pushrod tube. Both the diaphragm would have to be broken and the vent tube be plugged in order for gas to flow to the crankcase.

Fuel pump failure is a possible, but unlikely cause of gas contaminating the oil. The most likely causes relate to the carburetors. I might have an issue with stuck choke plates, or I might have a needle valve problem. It seems to be an intermittent occurrence. Colin did a little quick fix to free up the right choke plate where it seemed to bind slightly against the case. If it ever pops, bucks, and kicks like it did in March, my assignment is to pull the carb covers and check the choke plate positons. The needle valves used during the rebuild of my carbs are the old ones. Apparently the new needle valves can have problems. Colin says, when first installed, the neoprene in the valve needs to be primed with fuel in a running engine. If not, it might not seat properly and allow gas to get past.

Birdibus wrote: Colin says, when first installed, the neoprene in the valve needs to be primed with fuel in a running engine. If not, it might not seat properly and allow gas to get past.

I hasten to not generalize too extravagantly. I said that on my car, I did not start the engine after putting in the cheezy new neoprene needle valves, and the gas tank flooded into my crankcase overnight. I have subsequently discovered that it is best to start the engine so that fuel pressure will actively close the neoprene needle valves by cramming the floats against them as the bowls get filled.

Thanks for that elegantly simple dinner, it was exactly what I needed.
Colin