help with temporary floorboard repair

VWGirl · Post by **VWGirl** » Sun Jun 06, 2010 4:14 pm

So I got in my bus to drive it today and as soon as I touched the gas pedal, it fell through the floor The previous owner had repaired previous rusted off gas pedal with a door hinge... which broke 5 years ago... I then replaced said door hinge with another about 2 years ago.... today it was the floor board around the door hinge... so the actual mounting point of the floor pedal is done, it is about a 1"x2" section. So... debating how to do a temporary fix. I don't want to do a full out floor replacement like i need to because i need to start with the windshield rust that has cause d the floor rust... so... here are my ideas.

The best idea i can think of is to actually fiberglass the piece back on. I realize this is not the ideal patch, but again it is temporary. There is not much floor board missing, these are not big gaps... the metal is mostly there but just not connected. Will the fiberglass cloths and resin be enough if I coat it top and bottom?

Second option is to bolt a metal plate to the floor to bolt the pedal too. I do not like this option as much as it would require drilling more holes and putting bolts through the floor and there is a lot of stuff in this general area that need to have space.

I would weld it if I had a welder, but I don't, and I can't drive the bus without a gas pedal.

Any other ideas? I wanted to make sure I was doing something that would work before I make a mess that is harder to fix.

I have been trying to get time and money to get the bus off the road and all of the body work done at the same time so that it could get painted. I wanted to keep the bus on the road through November though... and some things have come where it just is not feasible to get this repaired correctly right now (more to come on that later), I do not see the point in having the floor board repaired (not just this spot, but the whole thing) if the water is coming in under the windshield seal and that is not going to be fixed too.

So please, I don't want to hear about how I need to fix this properly, I totally agree, but I need to at least get it fixed to where I can drive it until I can get it fixed properly. I would like to get it as correctly fixed as possible until I can have the whole floorboard/ windshield lip/ doglegs replaced.

Any other recommendations are appreciated.

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 8:19 am

The fiberglass cloth/resin is strong enuff to hold up my battery, but it's kinda flexy. Give it a shot, nothing to lose.

Randy in Maine · Post by **Randy in Maine** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:04 am

Can you just JB weld a piece of steel under the pedal area until proper repairs are made?

Even a piece of wood might do it.

Bookwus · Post by **Bookwus** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:14 am

Hiya VWG,

Like Randy, I would also opt for the epoxy approach.

I'm thinking that if you got a piece of sheet metal and did a little shaping and contouring on it to fit the space needed, went at the existing floor edges with a wire brush attachment to make 'em clean and shiny, and then affixed the patch panel in place with an epoxy..............you'd be in reasonably good shape. Certainly good enough to support a gas pedal set-up so that you could get the Bus to a welding shop.

static · Post by **static** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 9:38 am

When I had my '64, I used a 3/8" piece of plywood as the floorboard just fine. I was broke and 20 years old, and this was the most cost-effective solution. And besides, replacement floor panels were not available then.

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:01 am

try a big piece of sheet metal, overlap rusty area by at least a few inches. Wire brush rusty area and treat with rust converter. prime and paint according to rust converter instructions. run a bead of seam sealer or some kind of durable goop around the perimeter of the hole and rivet or drill screw the patch in place. Use a rivet or drill screw every 2" around the outside edge of the patch. aluminum rivets won't last very long before they start turning to that white dust. paint it up and then re-attach the gas pedal with another hinge. this kind of patch will last much longer than an epoxy type patch. you can find a piece of sheet metal at the dump. I've used pieces of computers and appliances in the past, leave the factory finish in place.

VWGirl · Post by **VWGirl** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:06 am

thanks guys, I hadn't even thought about epoxy. It is pretty small area, literally the area where the hinge is. Wood seems like it would take up too much space... there is no room under the bus for it and putting it inside seems like it would be awkward and uncomfortable.
I will post some pics tonight of what I am working with and maybe that will give some better ideas.

I know you said it can't hurt, but it was a Shorty windshield seal repair (silicone) that caused all the windshield rot which in turn caused the floorboard and dogleg rot.
I really want to fix it right, but my husband and I are trying to close on a house so bthe budget wont be there for a few months at least. I also don't have a welder or the skills yet to do it myself.

Thanks for not being like those other sites that shreik at the thought of doing make do repairs!

Pics to come when I get off work

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 10:35 am

I say a fiberglass cloth resin sandwich of many layers. It will be waterproof and sturdy.
THUS THE HAM HAS SPOKEN
(hey ma the ham is talking again. And my Apple Jacks just threw up.)

VWGirl · Post by **VWGirl** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 3:08 pm

Well, I went and took pictures but now I can't find my camera cable! I only took pics on the bottom side as I couldnt get the carpet up in the front without totally removing the carpet... but it's probably a better picture this way anyway... now to find the cable!

satchmo · Post by **satchmo** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 4:04 pm

I understand the Great and Powerful Ham has spoken, but I don't think fiberglass has the structural integrity you need for the pedal hinge. My vote is to use a piece of sheet metal (thicker stuff like you get from an old car body rather than some galvanized flashing) overlapping some solid floor, and either rivet, screw, or epoxy it in place.

And don't go overboard to make it waterproof; your floor needs somewhere to drain the water leaking in through the windshield!

Good Luck, Tim

VWGirl · Post by **VWGirl** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 5:50 pm

satchmo wrote: And don't go overboard to make it waterproof; your floor needs somewhere to drain the water leaking in through the windshield!

Is it sad that this made me laugh?

hambone · Post by **hambone** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:02 pm

Oh fine.

Yeah I guess it depends on how big the hole is and how much flex will want to occur.
I would just pop rivit an old license plate over the hole.

VWGirl · Post by **VWGirl** » Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:10 pm

I don't so much like the idea of pop rivets on something like that... I think I am going to get a piece of metal to use and drill some more holes in my floorboard... I will use bolts to secure it... now to just find the time!

VWGirl · Post by **VWGirl** » Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:16 am

I couldn't get such a great pic, but this is what i am working with. I think that it is actually just shifted over in the pic, there really isn't that much metal missing

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

help with temporary floorboard repair

help with temporary floorboard repair