'74 Bus No Turn Signals Or Emergency Flashers

[Emily's Owner]

I haven't driven the bus in a week (1974 transporter) and I don't seem to have turn signals or emergency flashers (the turn signal stalk has been loose for many years now and the self cancel doesn't cancel). I've checked the fuses, replaced that plug in flasher box, no dice. So I pulled the dash and noticed that the (I don't have technical words since I haven't the vaguest idea what goes on back there) cap that all the wires attach to had popped away from the emergency flasher switch housing. So I pushed it back together and it sparked while I did it. Now, the turn signals and the emergency flashers still don't work, my alternator/battery idiot light stays on, my gas gauge doesn't register (needle stays down at empty), what did I screw up when I sparked that switch? The alternator? My husband believes I screwed up the alternator with the spark, which is why the idiot light is lit.

I have no idea what I'm doing (obviously), and am worried that I've made it worse by pulling the instrument panel.

Suggestions?

[spiffy]

Maybe the emergency flasher switch got fried? I don't think you fried the alternator, the light will go on if certain "paths" are broken.

[Amskeptic]

the self cancel doesn't cancel
I pushed it back together and it sparked while I did it.
Now, the turn signals and the emergency flashers still don't work, my alternator/battery idiot light stays on, my gas gauge doesn't register (needle stays down at empty),

A) Fix the self cancel by pulling the switches up to just under the steering wheel. When the switches drop, the self-cancel tab can't reach the switch. Carefully snug the switches to the steering column jacket tube whatever.

B) Make sure the e-flasher is reassembled correctly or get a replacement.

C) I believe you will find that you merely blew a fuse to the instrument cluster. Check owners manual for which one and hopefully it will verify the one you find melted when you look at the fuse box.
Colin

[dtrumbo]

C) I believe you will find that you merely blew a fuse to the instrument cluster. Check owners manual for which one and hopefully it will verify the one you find melted when you look at the fuse box.
Colin

I agree. Looking at the wiring diagram, fuse #11 sure looks like a likely culprit for the new problems you're having. Sometimes the fuse "looks" good, but you need to take it out of the fuse box and use an ohm meter to verify that it really is good.

[hambone]

Fuses are cheap, it's a good idea to replace them every few years. Sometimes the connector metal tabs where the fuses sit gets dirty or tarnished, needing a good clean.

[Emily's Owner]

I pulled the instrument panel (first time ever for me) and found that the hazard switch is in two pieces, so I'll be scrounging one or buying new if that doesn't work. How easy is it to get it apart? I noticed Bus Boys sell a $22 tool that is supposed to make the job easy...If I'm careful, can't I just pry it apart and install the new one?

[dtrumbo]

This sounds like what you need.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... %2D233%2D2

The switch is all one piece (or at least is supposed to be!) I'm thinking the tool you spoke of is to remove the little escutcheon screw that holds it in the dash. I couldn't find it Bus Boys site, but is it like this?

http://www.airheadparts.com/viewDetail. ... oduct=6671

It sounds like you've already tried to "re-assemble" the existing switch with little success so perhaps it's time to replace it. The emergency flasher switch is integral to your turn signals working so until you get this squared away, your turn signals won't work either.

[gmag69]

Set the top back onto the switch and take a zip tie and wrap around the switch. Pull it tight and see if your flashers work. If they do you can use it like that till you can get yourself a new one. I've heard of others doing this and having it work for them. I've never personally done it.

[Emily's Owner]

This sounds like what you need.

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp ... %2D233%2D2

The switch is all one piece (or at least is supposed to be!) I'm thinking the tool you spoke of is to remove the little escutcheon screw that holds it in the dash. I couldn't find it Bus Boys site, but is it like this?http://www.airheadparts.com/viewDetail. ... oduct=6671

Yup, that's it. I have a used switch speedily coming from a fellow forumite - it should do the job, if not I'll buy a new one.

[vdubyah73]

The slotted escutcheon, behind the knob, holds the switch in place. You can get it off using a pair of needle nose pliers held slightly open to fit in the slots, or a pair of flat screwdrivers crossed over each other like scissors. Go gentle, it is easy to slip and poke yer eye out.


Bill

[bus71]

An ordinary table fork with center tine removed makes a good tool for switch removal.

[hambone]

You can get it off using a pair of needle nose pliers held slightly open to fit in the slots...

I second this method, works fine.

[Emily's Owner]

My switch arrived today (Thanks marT/Tram), I haven't figured out what box my bus books are in (still not quite completely unpacked), so I assume it's pretty straightforward, yes?

[Amskeptic]

My switch arrived today (Thanks marT/Tram), I haven't figured out what box my bus books are in (still not quite completely unpacked), so I assume it's pretty straightforward, yes?

Let's not assume it is straightforward.

Disconnect battery. Consult your Bentley and look up the switch and make a mental note of the colors and terminal #s you'll be dealing with. Compare the info for your bus against the switch you have received. If all is parallel, yes, it is straightforward swapping out (with battery disconnected please). If there are terminal discrepancies, you can make discretionary calls, butchoobetterhaveagoodideerofwhatcherdoon.
Colin

[dtrumbo]

As usual, Colin's advice is spot-on. If you find there are differences between the switches and you get stuck, take a picture of both of the switches, post 'em on here and we'll guide you through it.