CV joint and transmission questions

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satchmo
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CV joint and transmission questions

Post by satchmo » Thu Dec 07, 2006 5:51 pm

I'm taking my engine and transmission out for a little refresher. I have unbolted the CV joints where they join the tranny and have a couple of questions.

1) Is there any value in reversing the axles/cv joints in order to get more mileage out of them? What I mean here is taking the right side axle and rotating it end for end on the horizontal axis so the outside cv joint is now inboard and vise versa. Similar thing on the left side. Or should the cv joints only rotate one direction for their entire life?

2) The boots and cv joints are pretty clean where they attach to the transmission, so I assume the final drive on the transmission is not leaking fluid. Any reason to replace the seals here 'just because I have the transmission out?'

3) On the other hand, there is a lot of grease and dirt accumulation around the outer cv joints and boots. Why would that happen? Can the cv joint grease leak? Don't I have them on tight enough? Maybe I put too much grease in them the last time I repacked them. Or could this come from the wheel bearings?

4) I'm going to take the transmission nose cone off and check the condition of the hockey stick, the nose cone bushings, and the little plastic shifter ball. This is on an 002 transmission. Has anyone done this and do you have advice for me? I guess Long Enterprises sells the shifter ball.

You can probably tell I am pretty obsessive/compulsive about the cleanliness of the undercarriage. Accumulating crud means something needs to be fixed, right? My shift lever/rod/linkage is constantly rattling too, and I can't take it anymore. Hense the transmission comes out and new bushings go in everywhere I can put one.

Thanks, Tim
By three methods we may learn wisdom:
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius

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spiffy
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Post by spiffy » Thu Dec 07, 2006 6:51 pm

I would think that you could reverse the CV's direction, not sure you would get any more life out of them. I put one of mine back together wrong one time and had the pleasure of a nice crunch in the shop parking lot.
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67 Riviera "Bill"

vdubyah73
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Post by vdubyah73 » Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:13 pm

1) Theoreticaly, flipping them gives them the unused side of the balls and races to take the wear.

2) I like the old saw if it ain't broke don't fix it.

3) Grease has oils in it that seperate out over time. Think of a tub of margerine that has a little oil on top. Plus when they were repacked the grease tends to get messy when reassembling. May not have been completely wiped up after.

4) Can't help, I haven't a clue.

You ought to repack the CV's while they're out.

Bill

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Amskeptic
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Re: CV joint and transmission questions

Post by Amskeptic » Thu Dec 07, 2006 7:36 pm

satchmo wrote: 1) Is there any value in reversing the axles/cv joints
2) Any reason to replace the seals here
3) On the other hand, there is a lot of grease and dirt accumulation around the outer cv joints and boots.
4) I'm going to take the transmission nose cone off and check the condition of the hockey stick, the nose cone bushings, and the little plastic shifter ball. This is on an 002 transmission. Has anyone done this and do you have advice for me? I guess Long Enterprises sells the shifter ball.
1. Yes, but do not flip end-for-end. The wear surfaces will be in the identical spots. If you switch sides, then you'll have fresh contact points.

2. No.

3. Inners have a shouldered flange, outers are a flat flange. BMWs tape/paint the outer seam to help keep grease in and dirt out. Actually, they stay pretty clean as they throw a little grease, sort of like ear wax. Outflow rinses. . . .

4. Ask about the plastic vs metal and share Long's recommendation here.
Careful about the shift rod rattle, new shifter bushings are cheezy and are a total pia to whittle down the locator lugs. Look at the oem bushings and you will see they do not really have wear as you compare them to the crap replacements. My last shift rod rattle was due to a poorly synchronized carb.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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satchmo
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Re: CV joint and transmission questions

Post by satchmo » Wed Dec 13, 2006 6:27 pm

Amskeptic wrote:
satchmo wrote: 1) Is there any value in reversing the axles/cv joints
2) Any reason to replace the seals here
3) On the other hand, there is a lot of grease and dirt accumulation around the outer cv joints and boots.
4) I'm going to take the transmission nose cone off and check the condition of the hockey stick, the nose cone bushings, and the little plastic shifter ball. This is on an 002 transmission. Has anyone done this and do you have advice for me? I guess Long Enterprises sells the shifter ball.
1. Yes, but do not flip end-for-end. The wear surfaces will be in the identical spots. If you switch sides, then you'll have fresh contact points.

2. No.

3. Inners have a shouldered flange, outers are a flat flange. BMWs tape/paint the outer seam to help keep grease in and dirt out. Actually, they stay pretty clean as they throw a little grease, sort of like ear wax. Outflow rinses. . . .

4. Ask about the plastic vs metal and share Long's recommendation here.
Careful about the shift rod rattle, new shifter bushings are cheezy and are a total pia to whittle down the locator lugs. Look at the oem bushings and you will see they do not really have wear as you compare them to the crap replacements. My last shift rod rattle was due to a poorly synchronized carb.
Colin
Okay. Lemme get this straight. I can flip the axles side to side, but not end to end, and get a little more mileage out of the cv joints, correct? I have no idea what you mean when you are talking about the inner and outer shoulders. Of what? Each CV joint? Inner is toward axle shaft and outer is to main drive/axle stub? Please clarify.

I have the transmission out, but haven't removed the nose cone yet. I will post a few pictures when I do. I am curious about this ball joint on the end of the 'hockey stick.' Luckily, the NLA rubber boot that covers the nosecone/shifter lever is in great shape.

I removed the rear shift rod. The rear rod boot was toast and I will replace it. The shift rod bushings seem to have worn very little, but a close look at the rod shows where the metal circlip on the rear bushing had been rubbing on the rod. I have to think my engine and transmission were mounted at an angle that pushed the rod down too much. I'll post a picture of this tomorrow.

You're right. The replacement shift rod bushings are crap (must mean they are not Scottish, huh). I'll post some pictures of them too. I will reuse my old ones, of course.

However, I am going to put another (crappy) bushing on the shift rod between the two that were already there as per the 1977 VW Bulletin. I found some thick grease that is used for boat trailer bearings that should work well for the re-installation of the rod.

Pictures tomorrow. Tim
By three methods we may learn wisdom:
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius

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satchmo
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Post by satchmo » Thu Dec 14, 2006 11:11 am

Here are some pictures of the shift rod bushings. The old ones look fine. The new ones need a lot of whittling to make them fit.

[albumimg]333[/albumimg]
[albumimg]334[/albumimg]

Here is the wear pattern on the shift rod. Something was going on that made the circlip for the bushing wear on the rod.

[albumimg]332[/albumimg]

I took the transmission nose cone off to check the condition of the hockey stick (shift lever), the bushings in the nose cone, and the little ball type bushing the hockey stick fits in. Everything looked good. Minimal wear on the hockey stick. The ball bushing looks fine.

Tim

[albumimg]335[/albumimg]
[albumimg]336[/albumimg]
[albumimg]337[/albumimg]
By three methods we may learn wisdom:
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius

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whc03grady
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Post by whc03grady » Wed May 16, 2007 6:33 pm

For what it's worth, when I got my transmission rebuilt by Rancho, they kind of laughed when I asked if the new shifter ball would be plastic or metal. "[chuckle] It'll be metal," they said.
Ludwig--1974 Westfalia, 2.0L (GD035193), Solex 34PDSIT-2/3 carburetors.
Gertie--1971 Squareback, 1600cc with Bosch D-Jetronic fuel injection from a '72 (E brain).
Read about their adventures:
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IFBwax
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Post by IFBwax » Wed May 16, 2007 9:49 pm

Please translate the side to side end to end thing...

wheel a b tranny c d wheel

Is this what you want?

b a tranny d c

or is this what you want

d c tranny b a

or lastly

c d tranny a b

Thanks!
The best navigators aren't sure where they're going until they get there. And then they're still not sure.

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satchmo
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Post by satchmo » Tue May 22, 2007 2:49 pm

I think the final answer is number 3, as in:

wheel c d tranny a b wheel
By three methods we may learn wisdom:
First, by reflection, which is noblest;
second, by immitation, which is easiest;
and third, by experience, which is bitterest. -Confucius

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Amskeptic
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Post by Amskeptic » Tue May 22, 2007 6:13 pm

satchmo wrote:I think the final answer is number 3, as in:

wheel c d tranny a b wheel
You are correct!
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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IFBwax
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Post by IFBwax » Tue May 22, 2007 6:14 pm

Thanks guys!!! Won't be long now.. hopefully.
The best navigators aren't sure where they're going until they get there. And then they're still not sure.

Frank Bama

http://www.partypickle.blogspot.com

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