Auto tranny 2nd gear band adjustment

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 12:21 am

Any Ideas about how often the second gear brake band should be readjusted/checked. I've never done it and wonder about this process. Seems pretty simple to make this adjustment.

I don't think the Gypsie Wagon is shifting at the proper times.

It seems to want to go from first, just touching on second for a bit, then to third? before getting to 30 mph! I'm in third then it will not come back down to second until 10-15 unless I do it manually (with shifter) or forcing a kickdown with the accelerator floored.

FYI-The shifter 'clicks' into place a little below the "D" (APP 1/2") which seems a little out of place as it sits between the D and 2.

Would this 1/2" varience in the location of the shifter handle (SH) affect shift points? (i.e. if the shifter were to be sitting directly adjacent to the D would shift points change?) I have attempted to hold the SH in this position and haven't noticed a difference but it wants to slip to either side of the SH locking nubs, making this test suspect.

Thanks for anything you can offer to assist me in this dilemma.

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 4:33 am

Not too familiar with old skool VW autos, but that sounds about right for old skool autos in general. It'll kick down when you nail it, will it stay in second longer during hard acceleration or does it still upshift at what seems early to you? Electronic autos are much different today than old skool auto's controlled by vacuum and kick down linkages. The 1/2'' discrepancy is prolly just a linkage adjustment, as long as you can feel all the detents in the shifter and every gear is available manually the 1/2'' shouldn't matter. Remember back in the 70's with the fuel embargo the idea was to get into top gear quickly and efficiently.

vwlover77 · Post by **vwlover77** » Thu Oct 16, 2008 10:15 am

I had a '79 automatic Bus for many years and that behavior sounds about right to me as well.

Under normal acceleration, it would indeed be in 3rd gear by 30-35mph and would not come back to second unless I slowed for a 90-degree turn or pressed the accelerator fully to the floor and waited a second or so.

More throttle or steep grades would cause it to hold second gear longer when accelerating from rest.

I loved the fact that the transmission wasn't hunting around for a gear all the time.

I'm no automatic transmission expert, but I think the band adjustment is needed only if slippage is occuring, and that the band adjsutment does not influence the shift points.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 9:09 am

vwlover77 wrote: I'm no automatic transmission expert, but I think the band adjustment is needed only if slippage is occuring, and that the band adjsutment does not influence the shift points.

Yo are correct.
High rpm upshifts under light throttle usually occur due to vacuum modulator vacuum line leaks, if you have a vacuum modulator. Short shifts can be caused by crap in the valve body's myriad passages and check balls. With the late VW automatics, I believe the throttle link adjustment is critical to correct shift points. I tink.
Coilin

karl · Post by **karl** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 11:15 am

Modulator pressure controlls the quality of the shift: soft or firm.

Throttle pressure controlls the timing of the shift: early or late.

The throttle cable adjustment is critical. See the 68-79 Bentley, section 10, page 30.

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Fri Oct 17, 2008 1:54 pm

karl wrote:Modulator pressure controlls the quality of the shift: soft or firm.

Throttle pressure controlls the timing of the shift: early or late.

The throttle cable adjustment is critical. See the 68-79 Bentley, section 10, page 30.

There you have it, in a nutshell.

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Mon Oct 20, 2008 9:30 am

Excellent feedback. I have a Vanagon Bentley but think they are similar in the linkage adjustment area.

?- When the adjustment calls for the pedal to be fully depressed with enrichment engaged it is described that the kickdown lever not be in "Kickdown position" until the pedal is pushed further 'to the floor'. Is there an indicator of some sort that will let me know if it is in or out of kickdown, (i.e. lever resistence or a 'click type reaction'). I do get kickdown when standing on the pedal, just wondering if it should be in this position. I drove Spiffy's bus and it felt a little livelier. Not necessarily "kickdown" but downshifting on acceleration.

Any recommendations on 'power-flushing' type service? Or some sort of innards cleaner? I really don't get slippage, just trying to maximize performance.

back to 11-12 mpg!

-Gypsiepullinghishairout

spiffy · Post by **spiffy** » Tue Oct 21, 2008 11:44 am

Mine will go into 3rd around 30 as well. If I am running around town at 30 to 35 mph I will just keep the selector at 2 to hold it there. Now, if I get "on it" like on an on ramp second will take me all the way up to about 45 before it grabs third.

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:41 pm

Well, I adjusted the accelerator cable. Feels much peppier. I don't have to floor it to giddyup.

Seems to drop down to a lower gear when going slower and giving a reasonable amount of pedal. Not kick down, more like downshifting.

Also discovered a fuel leak from a piece of bad hose. Only leaked when the fuel pump was running. I would venture at least a gallon if not more per tank went on the ground as I puttered around town (stop and go, mostly at idle driving). Grrr.

Changed the hose. No more leak.

Filled it up today and am crossing my fingers for the mileage report. I'll let you know.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 6:47 am

Gypsie wrote:Seems to drop down to a lower gear when going slower and giving a reasonable amount of pedal. Not kick down, more like downshifting.

That IS kickdown. . . . 67hp Volkswagen style.

Gypsie · Post by **Gypsie** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:55 am

There is another kind of kickdown I experience when I floor it that is more like an "overdrive" type feeling. (Passing, on ramps and big hills stuff)

Perhaps it feels different because with the pedal floored there is enrichment?

It is my understanding the "Kickdown" is a mechanically activated phenom. (Pedal to the floor moves kickdown lever into kickdown position.

Perhaps what I am feeling with the slight acceleration "downshift" is just a more efficient power transfer with all the mix adjustments and new tranny fluid (at the proper fill level. i.e. not under filled. Doh!)

I think I've beaten this horse to death.

She feels happy. Still have not refilled fuel to check mileage. Another trip to the cabin this weekend will be very telling for freeway mileage.

vdubyah73 · Post by **vdubyah73** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 4:12 am

On downshift the engine would feel and sound less labored, RPM would go up. Overdrive would sound/feel the opposite, engine would work harder and RPM would drop.

Post by **Amskeptic** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 2:35 pm

Gypsie wrote:There is another kind of kickdown I experience when I floor it that is more like an "overdrive" type feeling. (Passing, on ramps and big hills stuff)

Perhaps it feels different because with the pedal floored there is enrichment?

There is no turbo boost/nitrous oxide dump/reactor light-off with "kickdown."

All kickdown has ever done on any car since forever, is to merely drop down a gear. Some cars will drop down two gears instantaneously, and that'll kick you in the pants. If you kickdown a VW Vanagon and it just so happens to be close to where it would have downshifted anyway, it is going to feel like a pretty normal shift. If you kick it down in an unexpected moment, you might find it more dramatic, but it is all the same. The important element of "kickdown" is that it drops down the instant you engage the kickdown switch.
Colin

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Auto tranny 2nd gear band adjustment

Auto tranny 2nd gear band adjustment