PSA: Check your shift couplers

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rallybug
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Location: North Salt Lake, UT
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PSA: Check your shift couplers

Post by rallybug » Mon Apr 13, 2015 7:45 am

Came off the freeway yesterday afternoon in my '79 Bay and coming up to lights, went to change down gears and nothing. #-o Luckily I still had 4th and it was willing to pull away from a standstill, grudgingly and very slowly...

Pulled into Costco's parking lot and looked underneath to see this:

Image

That's after I pushed the one rubber block and the pin back in! The other rubber block, washer and screw are missing completely!

I managed to pull away in either 3rd or 4th - difficult to tell, and got most of the way home, although the Gods did not shine on me for traffic lights. The final set of traffic lights are, of course, on a hill, and when I tried to pull away, nothing. No-one behind me luckily, and right on the lights is a Chevron gas station, so I rolled into their backwards. Across and downhill from the Chevron is an elementary school with a large turning circle, so I rolled into their and attempted to time my exit to allow me to get through the lights before they changed back to red.

Failed..

With the clutch protesting at the abuse, I gave up and rolled back into the Chevron. I got out and there was the pin and remaining rubber block sat in the street - no wonder I couldn't get anywhere! I picked it up, put it back into the coupler, and then got some duct tape to wind around the open end of the pin to stop it sliding out. Tried again and this time I was able to get through the lights and continue up the hill with some more clutch abuse, and then it was a level street and slightly downhill to my drive. Made it!

So, the coupler I have is like this one from Bus Depot - I don't know if I bought it there or somewhere else, as lots of vendors sell the same kit:

Image

I lost everything to the right of the main piece (one block, the lag screw and the washer).

So, now to order replacement bits. I don't know that I want to order the same kit - looking at it now in the light of experience, it looks a bit cheesy and lacking in security. Would the one that aircooled.net sell be a better option?

Image

It loses the hinky pin with the flare at one end, replacing it with a straight tube and a bolt with a Nyloc, which has to be more secure. I presume that I could just replace the parts other than the main piece in-situ, as the main piece is probably the same for both kits, yes?

Other options are one made by NoBars on The Samba:

Image

He makes them for Bugs, but aren't the couplers the same for all late a/c VWs?

And the CB Performance "Rhino"

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Both of those options would mean complete removal of the existing coupler, of course.
Harvee the Wonder Bus - a 1979 CA-spec 7-seater bus

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Amskeptic
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Re: PSA: Check you shift couplers

Post by Amskeptic » Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:49 am

rallybug wrote: With the clutch protesting at the abuse,
Ouch!
Next time, just shift it into first using a visegrip on the coupler cage and drive home in first gear (I have seen your hills!) . It is not good to damage your car when you have a two second work-around.

It is a simple thing to figure out that 1st is a counter-clockwise twist and a push as you face the rear of the car. Seriously.

So, yeah, get the nut and bolt style of coupler with the rubber blocks. Those urethane or plastic or solid ones just add viibration and harshness that you don't need.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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rallybug
Getting Hooked!
Location: North Salt Lake, UT
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Re: PSA: Check you shift couplers

Post by rallybug » Tue Apr 14, 2015 9:58 am

Is it just a straight take out the old rubber block and pin, put in the new blocks and nut-bolt combo, or do I need to be in neutral first? I assume that I don't need to actually remove the main coupler bit?
Harvee the Wonder Bus - a 1979 CA-spec 7-seater bus

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Amskeptic
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Re: PSA: Check you shift couplers

Post by Amskeptic » Tue Apr 14, 2015 5:38 pm

rallybug wrote:Is it just a straight take out the old rubber block and pin, put in the new blocks and nut-bolt combo, or do I need to be in neutral first? I assume that I don't need to actually remove the main coupler bit?
Yep, it is a snap, albeit a little tight in there.
Colin
(check the cage-to-collar swege before you build it up. twist the cage from one side to the other and look closely for any movement between the cage and the collar joint. It is subtle and maddening when it develops a little slip, you'll feel like a failure at the stop plate adjustment)
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles

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