Summary of Oil Filter Filtration Comparisons

Moderators: Sluggo, Amskeptic

Post Reply
User avatar
Hippie
IAC Addict!
Location: 41º 35' 27" N, 93º 37' 15" W
Status: Offline

Summary of Oil Filter Filtration Comparisons

Post by Hippie » Tue Dec 29, 2009 5:50 am

Visit my crappy little website! It's free...and worth every penny:

http://filtrationcomparisons.weebly.com/

User avatar
midatlanticys
Addicted!
Location: Azores Portugal
Status: Offline

Post by midatlanticys » Tue Dec 29, 2009 10:41 am

Nice job Hippie!! =D> =D> nothing *crappy* about that at all. I think you've done a fine job of presenting some good evidence with a well thought out procedure! Thanks for the time/effort!

Do you suspect all filter media is the same across any one brands filters made for generic daily drivers?
"The sad thing about governments is that in every single case, government formed by the people eventually becomes so large it begins to prey upon the people who created it.” -- B. Hoover

User avatar
Hippie
IAC Addict!
Location: 41º 35' 27" N, 93º 37' 15" W
Status: Offline

Post by Hippie » Tue Dec 29, 2009 12:09 pm

midatlanticys wrote: Do you suspect all filter media is the same across any one brands filters made for generic daily drivers?
Hey, thanks!
That seems to be the case about the media in ordinary circumstances....say buying a Mobil 1 or K&N, Purolator/PureONE, Bosch Premium, or probably WIX of different sizes for different vehicles.
When you go from differerent models like a Fram TG to an XG = very different. Purolator Classic and PureONE = different. etc.
There are a few models of Purolators with different ratings printed on the box, too...but only like 4 models.

Or if you get a filter MADE be one company but boxed as another brand = often different. I think the media in Purolator Classic is different than PowerFlow--their cheap service sector generic they keep behind the counter at AAP.
WIX builds most NAPA store filters, only the high-end NAPA Gold has WIX's heavy media. ProSelect (formerly NAPA Silver) usually has a very thin and coarser, (relatively open pore) media.

Also, I am fond of certain Toyota TRD filters, but different models are made by different manufacturers and come in different colors as some are labeled "Sport Filter" and these are different medias sometimes.

Rob

User avatar
bretski
Ellipsis-Meister
Ellipsis-Meister
Location: out of hibernation...for now
Status: Offline

Post by bretski » Fri Jan 15, 2010 8:21 am

I thanked you before for the threads, and I'll thank you again for the site!

Your results of Toyota filters were of interest to me, as the owner of a Highlander. I've always used Denso filters without so much as a second thought. Given the sludge problems that have been prevalent in 1MZ-FE engines of my era, I've stuck with the OEM Denso filter so as to have "ammunition" in case I ever needed to make a claim with Toyota. I might switch to Wix after I hit the end of the extended sludge warranty period. Thoughts? (and we can take this to another forum if it's too far off-topic).
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"

"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio

User avatar
Amskeptic
IAC "Help Desk"
IAC "Help Desk"
Status: Offline

Post by Amskeptic » Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:03 pm

bretski wrote:
Given the sludge problems that have been prevalent in 1MZ-FE engines of my era, I've stuck with the OEM Denso filter so as to have "ammunition" in case I ever needed to make a claim with Toyota.
Thoughts? (and we can take this to another forum if it's too far off-topic).
Engine/Oil/Condensation it is appropriate engine conversation so far. I need to delete my prior post.

So you have a sludge problem? I found a similar thing just about to bite the Lexus before I changed the oil and drove it hard on the freeway for 3,600 miles. Sludge is proof of water, end of story.

There are things you can do to help prevent water/condensation.
1) In the wintertime, if you start it, you have to drive it. Even if you only wanted to move it from end of the driveway to the other, if you start it, you must get it up to operating temperatures . . . quickly. Best way to do that is to follow your VW owner's manual suggestion and apply it to every internal combustion engine you use. "Drive off immediately, keep it mellow until warmed up."

2) No warm-up idling. I will give a sub-freezing engine a minute of warm-up, but none of this starting it and going in the house to have a cup of coffee while the engine is idling in the driveway. Do not ever do that.

3) Once warmed up, drive it like you mean it. You want as hot an engine as you can get, in the winter, that means make it work at low rpms, do everything you would not do in the summer with your bus.

4) Change the oil frequently. Even synthetic oils, which will not absorb water like dyno does, will trap oil at the bottom of the sump and in nooks and crannies throughout the engine. Water and iron/steel will find ways to make mischief.

Colin

User avatar
dhoch14
Old School!
Location: Granada, ES
Status: Offline

Post by dhoch14 » Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:12 pm

sooooooooooooooooooo which filter is best for a lil VWs? :scratch:
93 VW T4 2.4D Cali

User avatar
Sluggo
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Wishin' I was Fishin'
Location: Portland, Or.
Contact:
Status: Offline

Post by Sluggo » Fri Jan 15, 2010 3:17 pm

Excellent write up. I think it should be added to the (sorely lacking) "Tech Articles" section.
:vwgauge420:

1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------

User avatar
bretski
Ellipsis-Meister
Ellipsis-Meister
Location: out of hibernation...for now
Status: Offline

Post by bretski » Fri Jan 15, 2010 6:08 pm

I don't have a sludge problem, but the engines are prone to it. Enough so that Toyota will replace or fix the engine if it occurs within 8 years (I think 8, maybe 10). Anyway, I'm right at the cusp of 8 years on that car. I change the oil every 5000 miles, which is the factory recommended interval. Per Toyota, regular oil changes have proven to be the best prevention for the sludge issue in the 1MZ-FE's.

I completely agree on the regimen of getting the engine to full operating temp any time it's driven in cold. I *am* guilty of doing a little driveway warm-up on extremely cold mornings. Sorry... :blackeye:

This winter has been particularly cold, and I've had a problem with the Denso filter leaking when the temp has gone below -5 or so. On these mornings, I've found a small puddle of oil under the car, and traced it to the filter. My belief is that the extreme cold is contracting the gasket, allowing it to weep a bit. I brought this up to the Toyota dealer where I buy my filters. She gave me a freebie. Very customer-service oriented...surprised me in fact.

The Denso filters used to be Japanese made, and were of excellent quality. In 2007, they outsourced to Thailand, Phillipines, etc...I had a stockpile of Japanese filters, but ran out last year. Anyway, not to turn this into a "global economy" rant, but I think I'll switch to the Wix or maybe Mobil1 once the sludge warranty period is expired.
1978 Deluxe Westfalia - "Klaus"

"transcripts are overrated. hardware store receipts: those are useful." --skin daddio

User avatar
Hippie
IAC Addict!
Location: 41º 35' 27" N, 93º 37' 15" W
Status: Offline

Post by Hippie » Sat Jan 16, 2010 4:03 pm

Good advice on the warmup, but there are times I can't see, so I warmitup longer than I want to to get defrosters working.
Other than that, that's the way I drive in winter, too.

The Densos are a good choice for your Toy. TRD are better (Toyota Racing Development) and are what I am running on my Tacoma.
K&N and Purolator, too. If you run a 90915-YZZD1, or " "-YZZD3, you should be able to run a TRD PTR43-00080, Puro L10241, oversize PuroONE PL20195 (I definitely prefer oversize in PureONE for max flow) K&N HP-1002, or oversize HP-2009. Double check my numbers though as these are from memory.

For Veewees, I probably best recommend Mobil 1 Extended Performance, K&N, and Mann. Wix is fine, too, but I prefer the first three.

Post Reply