Itinerant Air-Cooled

Anyone do this with the engine in place?

Suggestions, tips, and points to ponder

I want to retorque the heads but know that If I start on it and it doesn't work I will pull the engine and I want to come tho the table prepared to avoid if at all possible.

Gypsie wrote:Anyone do this with the engine in place?

Suggestions, tips, and points to ponder

I want to retorque the heads but know that If I start on it and it doesn't work I will pull the engine and I want to come tho the table prepared to avoid if at all possible.

I start with torquing the lower head nuts accessible after removing the rockers for the cylinder blocking the particular nuts. If the lower nuts are all above 20, I do not worry about the uppers. If one is less than 18, I still refuse to worry. If they are all below 20-23 and there are a couple of really low ones (less than 17)< I pull the upper cylinder covers up a bit and get torque wrench extension snuck under the sides. This does require removing FI runners. Start with the middle nuts and cross out to outside nuts, i.e. if the nuts are numbered from 1-4 as you look, you must either do 3 to 1 or 2 to 4 as you torque to the outside. Do not loosen if they are at 23 figure. If they are less than 23, then back off a 1/4 turn so you can reach torque figure while in motion.
Colin

How do I confirm their current torque value?

set your torque at the desired pressure and apply. if the wrench breaks, you are at that torque already.

So you could go to 23 and if the head nut turns, then you are less than 23. IF you have to turn a lot, then you are really far away from 23.

make sense?

-d

I was amazed at how many nuts needed re-torque on Bill's engine. So much so that I have vowed to go in after a few thousand miles on any new engine to check.

With that huge hatch of yours, widdle the engine down to almost the long block and retorque.

Or not. It is entirely possible that you will find that none of them "moved"....but then again......what if?