Flywheel Seal Frustration

[type2sam]

Greetings all.

I've got about 1000 miles on a rebuilt 2.0 that I installed last summer. I've had a oil leak coming from the mating surface between the engine and transmission the entire time. Admittedly I've been trying to enjoy driving my bus around and putting off the engine drop I knew I needed to do. The engine is past the 12 month warranty, so I've got no claim there.

Anyways, I obtained a new flywheel seal and dropped the engine Friday afternoon.

The outer surface of the pressure plate and the entire area behind the flywheel was covered with an oily film. The top of the engine in the general area of the flywheel inspection hole was also covered with an oil film. Even the plastic sheeting I put in the engine hatch to protect the insulation had some oil sprayed on it.

There was a good sized lake of engine oil in the bell housing. One of the galley plug bores (while facing the flywheel seal - the one just to the right of the cam plug) had some oil in the recess - this plug is recessed about 1/4" into the case. At this point, I was not sure if this meant a leaking plug or just oil that had been "captured" in the recess as it appears oil has really been flying around.

The rebuilder replaced the galley plugs with threaded brass units. I gave them both a twist with the correct sized Allen wrench and found them both to be solid with no movement. I cleaned up the exposed threads in the recess just because.

I pulled the flywheel seal (an Ehlring, fully seated in the case) and found a few shallow scrapes on the inner surface of the seal recess. I smoothed these down with some polishing compound. Endplay, as measured with a dial indicator, was .005 - acceptable from what I've read.

The flywheel is grooved - I used some 220 to smooth it somewhat and did the 45 degree clockwise movement as detailed by Colin. Installed a new Viton Victor-Reinz seal FLUSH to the case and tried the Colin "grease-on-the-flywheel-snout trick" to see where the seal was contacting, but couldn't quite determine the contact point.

I was running out of time and decided to leave it flush and lube the inside perimeter with moly grease.

I reinstalled the engine and took it for a ride - the leak is back and in the very same location.

I plan on pulling the engine again in the next few weeks - I don't expect to drive it a whole lot until then. Here's my plan of attack:

1. Address the groove in the flywheel - mirror finish is my goal here

2. I am considering (with much trepidation) pulling the galley plugs and JBWelding them in there. The current sealant is yellowish (might be greenish - I'm colorblind). It's not RTV, but is the same sealant used under the engine through-bolt nuts.

Any ideas on what torque I should set these to?

Any thing else that I'm missing? Any words of caution/encouragement?

Thanks,

Scott

[vwlover77]

Yes, when you're done, come and do my engine too! I've been through exactly what you have and still have an oil leak. Not massive, but annoying. After two brand new crankshaft seals within a few thousand miles and polishing the flywheel hub to mirror smoothness, I'm convinced the GEX-installed oil galley plugs are the source of the leak.

I'm now convinced that oil did not splash into this gallery plug hole, but leaked from it.

But I'm scared I'll strip the hex head trying to remove the plug. I wonder if an impact wrench is the only way to get them out, or whether it's better just to clean it up and cover it over with JB Weld?

[chitwnvw]

I would think some heat would expand the aluminum, and allow you to extract those plugs... Although I've been guilty of the clean and JB method on a leaky trans, depends what you can live with...

[germansupplyscott]

make sure the o-ring is in the flywheel.

[type2sam]

In my case, the o-ring is definitely in there. I replaced the one that was in there as it seemed to be somewhat less flexible that the new one I had on hand.

vwlover77 - oh man, I hope I don't need to do this again and again. I guess at some point, you just decide to live with it. If I find it, I'll share the secret with you :)

[vwlover77]

Well, on the bright side, I'm a lot quicker at pulling the engine than I used to be!

[Bleyseng]

Find a good used flywheel or new one without the groove is the best solution. The rear main seal isn't going to seal right if there is a groove! Reset the end play while you are at it too...

[Amskeptic]

Find a good used flywheel or new one without the groove is the best solution. The rear main seal isn't going to seal right if there is a groove! Reset the end play while you are at it too...

You do not want a polished surface on the flywheel. You want etched 45* scratches. Seals need lubrication to maintain their seal. Just make the 45* scratches in one direction only the direction that would help throw the oil back towards the engine as the flywheel rotates.

The o-ring between the flywheel and the crankshaft is a big important sealing moment. Best indication of that o-ring not doing its job is oil in the crankshaft bolt holes. They should be dry at disassembly. That seal needs to be replaced at every pull. The flywheel's groove for that thing must be clean. The crankshaft, at the mating surface with the flywheel, must be absolutely un-nicked and smooth.

The gallery plugs are the greatest source of Unknown since the oil pressure and temperature are impossible to observe. I choose to JB Weld over the gallery plugs, clean smooth and seriously thorough not as a plug or oil retaining method, but as a leak check method. Etch the case aluminum around the plugs to give the JB Weld some bite. Smooth it down flat and pretty and taper it to the case aluminum so you can see that there is no oil escaping at your NEXT pull to see why the ^%(^$*%*!* the leak hasn't gone away.
Colin