Installing a 30mm Schadek Oil Pump in my Type IV
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
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Installing a 30mm Schadek Oil Pump in my Type IV
I'm gonna be installing a 30mm oil pump in my Bus. Any tips? I have the type 1 cover to fit it. Should I just use the regular paper gasket and some permatex?
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline
I seem to remember most of the struggles with mine were getting the clearance between the gears and the pump cover to a minimum. One of the gears, I had to heat up and press the gear to a different position on the shaft.
Some people even omit the outside gasket to further reduce clearance. I was too chicken. I left the gasket. Even used a little curil t on it. Colin got a chuckle out of that.
Oh, and how could I forget, the pump would not clear the cam gear. I had to have the cam gear machined so that the bolts were recessed into the face of the cam gear. Good luck.
Some people even omit the outside gasket to further reduce clearance. I was too chicken. I left the gasket. Even used a little curil t on it. Colin got a chuckle out of that.
Oh, and how could I forget, the pump would not clear the cam gear. I had to have the cam gear machined so that the bolts were recessed into the face of the cam gear. Good luck.
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
Re: Insatlling a 30mm Schadek Oil Pump in my Type IV
If the pump is aluminum, permatex + paper should be fine. If it is cast iron, your expansion/contraction rates are going to exacerbate leaks so make sure you are nicely sealed up.Sluggo wrote:I'm gonna be installing a 30mm oil pump in my Bus. Any tips? I have the type 1 cover to fit it. Should I just use the regular paper gasket and some permatex?
Why a 30mm? Stock Type 4 pumps have plenty of capacity when the rest of the engine is properly assembled. . . . You got oil light issues? With a stock sender? You know the aftermarket deals are turning on the idiot light at 10psi + which is too high of a cut-off.
Colin
BobD - 78 Bus . . . 112,730 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
Chloe - 70 bus . . . 217,593 miles
Naranja - 77 Westy . . . 142,970 miles
Pluck - 1973 Squareback . . . . . . 55,600 miles
Alexus - 91 Lexus LS400 . . . 96,675 miles
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Re: Insatlling a 30mm Schadek Oil Pump in my Type IV
It's a Schadek pump so we know the metal is good. It's a stock sender. A new Type 4 pump is very expensive. Couple hundred bucks. The 30mm Schadek is an affordable and effective replacement.Amskeptic wrote:If the pump is aluminum, permatex + paper should be fine. If it is cast iron, your expansion/contraction rates are going to exacerbate leaks so make sure you are nicely sealed up.
Why a 30mm? Stock Type 4 pumps have plenty of capacity when the rest of the engine is properly assembled. . . . You got oil light issues? With a stock sender? You know the aftermarket deals are turning on the idiot light at 10psi + which is too high of a cut-off.
Colin
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
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- germansupplyscott
- Trusted Air-Cooled Parts Vendor
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
you might want to read this:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=180354
and then decide if you want a 30mm pump. 26mm pump is the way to go. the stock pump has 24mm gears, so the 26mm unit is already pumping more oil (and causing more drag) than stock.
i have a 30mm pump in my personal 79 bus and i will never use one again, i can back up the claims of increased oil temperature with a 30mm pump. the 30mm pump puts out too much pressure and the oil is often bypassing the cooler at highway rpm.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=180354
and then decide if you want a 30mm pump. 26mm pump is the way to go. the stock pump has 24mm gears, so the 26mm unit is already pumping more oil (and causing more drag) than stock.
i have a 30mm pump in my personal 79 bus and i will never use one again, i can back up the claims of increased oil temperature with a 30mm pump. the 30mm pump puts out too much pressure and the oil is often bypassing the cooler at highway rpm.
- chitwnvw
- Resident Troublemaker
- Location: Chicago.
- Status: Offline
That's pretty interesting Scott. Although it seemed to be from the t1 folks who were adding on external oil coolers. John from aircooled was also poo pooing the 30mm pumps, yet aircooled.net says this:
But you're driving a t4 so I have to take this seriously. Guess it's time to hook up an oil temp guage..."Choose the 30mm pump for T-4s, 21 or 26mm pump for Type 1s."
- Sluggo
- Wishin' I was Fishin'
- Location: Portland, Or.
- Contact:
- Status: Offline
Interesting read. I stuck with the Type 4 pump becausegermansupplyscott wrote:you might want to read this:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=180354
and then decide if you want a 30mm pump. 26mm pump is the way to go. the stock pump has 24mm gears, so the 26mm unit is already pumping more oil (and causing more drag) than stock.
i have a 30mm pump in my personal 79 bus and i will never use one again, i can back up the claims of increased oil temperature with a 30mm pump. the 30mm pump puts out too much pressure and the oil is often bypassing the cooler at highway rpm.
A: The pump turned out not to be my problem.
B: I didn't want to split the case to grind the cam bolts down more.
I get my head back tomorrow. When I put her all back together I'll know if my Fuel Pump Push Rod Bushing fix worked.
1977 Bus with Sunroof - "Lucky '77"
2000cc Type IV w/Dual Weber 36s,
Aircooled.net SVDA w/Compufire,
Redline Weber Fuel Pump,
Holley Regulator,
Half Ass Brush & Roller Rustoleum Paint Job,
Incomplete Custom Interior,
Dual Batteries,
Crunched Slider Door.
------------------------------------------------------
- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
People have muttered under their breath that I am a few fasteners short of a full build, but lemmee tell ya, do not blow off the stock engineering until you:Sluggo wrote: I stuck with the Type 4 pump because
A: The pump turned out not to be my problem.
B: I didn't want to split the case to grind the cam bolts down more.
I get my head back tomorrow. When I put her all back together I'll know if my Fuel Pump Push Rod Bushing fix worked.
A) Know what is wrong. . . .
B) Have needs far beyond the stock engineering's capacity.
Colin
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- Getting Hooked!
- Location: Baltimore, MD
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- Amskeptic
- IAC "Help Desk"
- Status: Offline
No. All oil pumps put out excess pressure and volume. The relief valve is the arbitor of pressure at the seals. When you were trying to overcome the low pressure at the fuel pump bronze bushing, did you lengthen the spring?chitwnvw wrote:I have some weeping at the oil cooler seals is it possible that this is caused by the 30mm Schadek? There and the dip stick holder....just wondering...
Colin