Help-Clutch Cable Boot

[westy78socal]

Any tips how to get the new clutch cable through the old boot cover at the back end. I tried extra grease, WD40 but it get stuck just after the threaded part of cable is all the way in there. Also, that is where the cable shreded, just under the threaded part where you scew the nut onto the transmission and the part covered by the boot. Any ideas why it would do that.

[westy78socal]

I bought a new sleeve and it went through no problem. Now I have to figure the tension on the clutch. Right now it seems to engage when I bring the pedal up about 1/2-1 inch. Is that about right?

[Hippie]

I think you're supposed to adjust it from the top down...That is, how much freeplay is there when you push down the pedal before you have resistance. I don't remember how much...maybe 1 to 1 1/2 inches?


Rob

[Sluggo]

Loosen/tighten the cable till you have the proper resistance. Should go down about 1/2" - 3/4" before it starts to engage (show resistance). I think I remember Colin telling me that a new cable should be seat closer to 1/2" to allow for a little stretch as it breaks in. Freeplay should not be more than 3/4" though.

[Amskeptic]

Early buses like slightly less play than later buses. I say, do the 1" to 1-1/2" so you have a good disengagement before the floor and plenty of play at the top. As the disk wears down, it eats up the free-play, so why not err on the side of a little extra play?
Colin

[westy78socal]

Early buses like slightly less play than later buses. I say, do the 1" to 1-1/2" so you have a good disengagement before the floor and plenty of play at the top. As the disk wears down, it eats up the free-play, so why not err on the side of a little extra play?
Colin

It seems to be close to half the distance when I push down on the pedal before feeling tension. When I bring it up it's almost an inch before it starts to engage. This is guesstimation of course.

[chitwnvw]

I have my wing nut nearly all the way up the threads. What, if anything, does one use to shim if they can't take out enough of the slack on the cable?

[Sluggo]

I have my wing nut nearly all the way up the threads. What, if anything, does one use to shim if they can't take out enough of the slack on the cable?

I'd say get a new cable. That one is very stretched.

[DurocShark]

Chitwnvw: When you adjust the wingnut, do you clamp or otherwise hold the cable itself? I made that mistake the first time I adjusted my 73. It unwound the cable making it too long, and it soon snapped.

[chitwnvw]

Chitwnvw: When you adjust the wingnut, do you clamp or otherwise hold the cable itself? I made that mistake the first time I adjusted my 73. It unwound the cable making it too long, and it soon snapped.

I put a cresent wrench on the area before the threads and wedged it in there to keep the cable from spinning.

You must have been real strong to spin that sucker until it snapped! :diabloanifire:

[DurocShark]

Much as I would like everybody to think I'm HeMan incarnate, it snapped while driving. But my unwinding it made it WAY weaker.

[Amskeptic]

I have my wing nut nearly all the way up the threads. What, if anything, does one use to shim if they can't take out enough of the slack on the cable?

You are supposed to shim the cable sheath at the transaxle bracket to get your sag of 1 1/2". Large washers that slip over the metal (plastic?) end of the sheath before it slips into the transaxle bracket, that will get your adjustment wing nut where it belongs. . . except for us early 1973 buses where it was discovered that replacement cables are a little too long. But do the above anyway, it will help.
Colin

[westy78socal]

Should I tighten up the clutch cable if the pedal is sort of squeeking when I push it down and when it comes up?

[Amskeptic]

Should I tighten up the clutch cable if the pedal is sort of squeeking when I push it down and when it comes up?

No, not necessarily. What you should do is to lubricate everything in the clutch actuation system.
A) disassemble the pedal pivot and lubricate the bushings
B) yank the cable right out of there and grease the heck out of it as you reinstall it.
C) remove transaxle bracket (two 13mm nuts) and remove the vinyl-coated flexible cable sheath known as the Bowden tube, rinse all the rusty crap out of it, follow with a bath of engine oil then reassemble and run the greasy cable up through to the wing nut whichj needs a big dose of grease where it pulls the actuating arm. . . see that spring coiled around the actuating arm's shaft, lubricate it.
D) either ensure that the cable boot is accounted for, or put a big plug of grease where the cable comes out of the Bowden tube.

No more s-q-u-e-a-k-i-n-g