WHEN to check the oil?

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Sat May 12, 2007 7:20 pm

The oil level on the dipstick seems to vary quite a bit depending on when I check the oil. I know when the engine sits, the oil drains to the lowest point.

My question is - when do you check the oil - cold or warm? I usually check the oil when I get gas, but that means the engine is hot, so if I make sure it's topped off then, am I over-filling?

Westy78 · Post by **Westy78** » Sat May 12, 2007 8:08 pm

For the most accurate reading pull the dipstick on a completely cold engine. Like first thing in the morning before driving. That way most of the oil has had a chance to drain back into the sump. Making sure you're on the most level surface you can helps too. It doesn't take much of a slant to the front or back to get false readings.

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Sat May 12, 2007 8:40 pm

Thanks!

And I should be as close to the top line without going over? I ask because now I'm a little over when it's cold. I assume that's why I'm leaking more oil than usual - I probably blew a seal or something? (or is that just ice cream?

see joke thread...)

Westy78 · Post by **Westy78** » Sat May 12, 2007 8:45 pm

Yep, I try to keep it somewhere between half way up the hash marks and the full line. IIRC the difference between the bottom line and top line is half a quart or one pint. If you're only over the line just a smidge you're probably OK but you are correct that you don't want to overfill.

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Sat May 12, 2007 9:03 pm

Westy78 wrote: IIRC the difference between the bottom line and top line is half a quart or one pint. If you're only over the line just a smidge you'r?e probably OK but you are correct that you don't want to overfill.

Or in my case, about 1/2 a litre! Crazy Canadians...

It's possible that I have overfilled. He's leaking more than usual. If I did blow a seal, is there one more likely to have blown?

I really need to deal with these oil leaks!

Bleyseng · Post by **Bleyseng** » Sun May 13, 2007 7:49 am

Its no problem if its over the top line by a 1/8th of a inch (4mm) as we run 914's like that all the time to just have a little more oil in the sump.

If you didn't know, driving around the valves covers are about 1/2 full of oil so leaks at the valves covers or pushrod tubes are common. Fix em as soon as you can.

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Sun May 13, 2007 9:58 am

looking more closely, the leak may be coming from above the right valve cover. It's also dripping onto the right heat exchanger. That sounds like a fire hazzard to me...

bottomend · Post by **bottomend** » Sun May 13, 2007 3:30 pm

Make sure it's on a flat piece of ground. Even a little bit of an incline and will give you strange readings.

I usually check mine at the gas station too, but I wait untill I've filled up. that allows a bit of the oil to run back into the bottome of the crank case.

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Sun May 13, 2007 5:21 pm

thanks! I'll remember that!

So - what are those rods behind/going into where the valves are? Are those the push rods? becasue one of them has an awful lot of oil on it...

Hippie · Post by **Hippie** » Sun May 13, 2007 8:17 pm

Push rod tubes, yes.
(The actual push rods run up and down inside the tubes opening and closing the valves)
Those are common leak spots but it's not very hard to put new seals on them in a '77.

Rob

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Sun May 13, 2007 8:26 pm

good to hear! Any tips on how to do that?

tellis · Post by **tellis** » Mon May 14, 2007 7:35 am

77_Bus_Girl wrote:good to hear! Any tips on how to do that?

1) Take your time
2) Be careful not to crush the tubes as you remove them
3) If you have the wire retainer, pay careful attention to how it goes on.
4) Do NOT use any sealant on the O-rings, a little clean oil will do
5) Don't over-torque the bolts which hold the rocker arms

If you need a more detailed explanation, just let us know.

77_Bus_Girl · Post by **77_Bus_Girl** » Mon May 14, 2007 9:41 am

tellis wrote: If you need a more detailed explanation, just let us know.

Thanks! I should be fine as long as there is a good write-up in the Bentley...

tellis · Post by **tellis** » Mon May 14, 2007 9:54 am

In my copy of the Bentley the procedure is on pg. 33 of the "Engine And Clutch" section, but the procedure described is for the upright engines.

The write-up isn't great, and I wouldn't recommend following their advice to use a screwdriver to remove the pushrod tube. I find that wrapping a shop towel around the tube and GENTLY grabbing it with some Vise-Grips and then twisting it is usually enough to get it free, and then it just slides right on out. Then a little Gum-Out, new seals, a little oil on the new seals, and reverse the procedure, putting the proper torque on the rocker shaft retaining nuts, and adjusting the valves is all that is needed. It's really not that hard of a job, and it builds character, just like redoing your CV boots.

tellis · Post by **tellis** » Mon May 14, 2007 10:02 am

If you are needing a step-by-step, and for the late model buses my copy of the Bentley is lacking, here's one that should suffice:

http://type2.com/bartnik/pushrod.htm

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

WHEN to check the oil?

WHEN to check the oil?