Since I'll have the engine out

deadaheadub · Post by **deadaheadub** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 2:58 pm

Since I'm pulling it to repair the sparkplug thread, I thought I'd do what I can to improve the engine. It seemed to run well before (don't know compression since that's what I was in the process of doing when I became aware of the stripped thread). So, other than rebuilding everything, what can I do that is relatively easily done, and not way too expensive to do not knowing whether it needs to be done or not? You know, the relatively cheap stuff that would be stupid not to do while it's going to be out anyway. I was going to check the push rod tubes 'cuz that could be a source of the leaks I have; as well as the front and rear seals. On the push rod tubes, do I just put on new seals, or do the tubes often get bent and I might need to have new tubes already bought and on hand in case I need to replace them?

Where's the best online place to buy things like the seals and tubes, a head gasket (I don't need the whole engine gasket/seal kit I see for sale)?
And what about different quality seals and gaskets? Which are best?
I'm asking because many of you know the intricacies and specifics of parts quality, having done it many times before, unlike me. Thanks!

vwlover77 · Post by **vwlover77** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:30 pm

Please tell us what year Bus you have and what engine you have as it may make a difference...

deadaheadub · Post by **deadaheadub** » Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:51 pm

vwlover77 wrote:Please tell us what year Bus you have and what engine you have as it may make a difference...

76 2.0L FI
thanks

vwlover77 · Post by **vwlover77** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 10:05 am

I hope others will chime in.....

You only need to replace the pushrod seals, not the tubes, unless they are visibly bent. It's just as easy to do that job with the engine in as out - maybe easier in if you don't have an engine stand. You do not have to remove the heads to replace them.

Other things to do while the engine is out:

- You already mentioned front and rear seals (usually, the front [flywheel end] is the big leaker)
- Replace clutch disk and pressure plate if worn, maybe machine the flywheel, if needed
- You mentioned head gasket - these engines require no gaskets at the head to cylinder mating surface, so unless you are tearing it apart to rebuild it, you need no gaskets other than valve cover gaskets (which also are easy to replace with the engine in).
- You'll be pulling a head to get the stripped spark plug hole fixed, so examine the head carefully for cracks, or signs of valve problems. Might as well pull the other head to check it too. There's a wealth of info on ratwell.com regarding this:
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Heads.html
- While the heads are off, take a look at the cylinder walls for wear, too.
- Clean it all up and paint the tin all pretty, etc....
- Having the engine out is a great time to replace ALL fuel AND evaporative lines. Again, more info at ratwell.com:
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FuelHoses.html

deadaheadub · Post by **deadaheadub** » Wed Apr 18, 2007 8:49 pm

Excellent. I love learning this stuff. Thanks

deadaheadub · Post by **deadaheadub** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 11:14 am

vwlover77 wrote: - You mentioned head gasket - these engines require no gaskets at the head to cylinder mating surface, so unless you are tearing it apart to rebuild it, you need no gaskets other than valve cover gaskets (which also are easy to replace with the engine in).

Thanks, vwlover77. I didn't know that --stupid noob!

Where should I look for the parts I'll need? Based on your experiences, what online shops do you all prefer?

vwlover77 · Post by **vwlover77** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 5:42 pm

For online parts, I'd recommend busdepot and germansupply....

http://www.busdepot.com

http://www.germansupply.com

bottomend · Post by **bottomend** » Thu Apr 19, 2007 11:06 pm

You should also change the oil cooler seals too.

Make sure you diagram the FI parts so you remember how it all goes back togather. Dont mistakenly switch heads if you take them both off.

Check crankshaft endplay and adjust if required.

TrollFromDownBelow · Post by **TrollFromDownBelow** » Wed May 02, 2007 4:05 pm

Relatively the same topic, but different slant....

Have a used engine that I will be installing. It's not in a vehicle, therefore no convienient/easy way to see how it will run when I install (can't compression check it either).

Therefore, without completely tearing the engine down, what can I visually inspect/measure that will give me a clue as to the real condition of this gem?

I'm thinking, pull the heads and check for sunk valve seats....what else??

vwlover77 · Post by **vwlover77** » Thu May 03, 2007 6:18 am

You can do a leakdown test which will give you a very good indication of the condition of the rings and valve sealing. I see that Harbor Freight has the testers for a pretty reasonable price now. You'll need an air compressor, too, but hopefully you can borrow or rent one if you don't have one.

TrollFromDownBelow · Post by **TrollFromDownBelow** » Fri May 04, 2007 9:40 am

Thanks!

What's the lkak down tester tool called?

vwlover77 · Post by **vwlover77** » Fri May 04, 2007 11:06 am

"Cylinder Leakdown Tester"

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=94190

TrollFromDownBelow · Post by **TrollFromDownBelow** » Fri May 04, 2007 11:38 am

Thanks! have a harbor freight store that's only 20 min away; will stop by and pick one up.

IFBwax · Post by **IFBwax** » Fri May 04, 2007 8:49 pm

Change the fuel filler hoses both at the top by your gas cap.. and also the one that goes into your tank.

http://www.partypickle.blogspot.com

Check the 2nd or 3rd post on my blog.

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Itinerant Air-Cooled

Since I'll have the engine out

Since I'll have the engine out