Re: Continuing problems with Headflow Masters engine
Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 10:08 am
From the original wording, it sounded like he split the case without removing the heads/head nuts, doesn't it?
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...I swear that's what he told me. Hopefully I get clarification this week.asiab3 wrote:From the original wording, it sounded like he split the case without removing the heads/head nuts, doesn't it?
the miz wrote:Thanks Colin, that makes sense. That's probably what he did...it just wasn't explained quite that way.Amskeptic wrote: He removed the cylinder barrels with the pistons remaining inside so as not to disturb the ring break-in, yes, I do that too. But the heads, the pistons and cylinders, and the case halves all would have to be disassembled.
Colin
Miz
the miz wrote:...I swear that's what he told me. Hopefully I get clarification this week.asiab3 wrote:From the original wording, it sounded like he split the case without removing the heads/head nuts, doesn't it?
I did a compression test on a cold engine. I know it's recommended to warm it up first, but since the leak happens at first start-up I thought testing on a cold engine may reveal more?Amskeptic wrote: Please, do a compression test.
Colin
Those look reasonable . . . .THall wrote:I did a compression test on a cold engine. I know it's recommended to warm it up first, but since the leak happens at first start-up I thought testing on a cold engine may reveal more?Amskeptic wrote: Please, do a compression test.
Colin
#1 - 110
#2 - 110
#3 - 113
#4 - 115
Not until I figure out what's up with that damn leak. What next?Amskeptic wrote:Those look reasonable . . . .
Colin
(have ya had ENOUGH of diagnostics??)
Ask Adrian for authorization to pull rocker assemblies and re-torque lower head nuts. If any start to move at less than 18 ft/lbs as established on your clicker torque wrench ahead of time, that is evidence that all head nuts must be re-torqued, requiring the removal of upper cylinder tins, etc.THall wrote:Not until I figure out what's up with that damn leak. What next?Amskeptic wrote:Those look reasonable . . . .
Colin
(have ya had ENOUGH of diagnostics??)
Well to be able to ask for authorization means I'd need to speak to or receive email response from Adrian...neither of which I've been able to do in the past week.Amskeptic wrote: Ask Adrian for authorization to pull rocker assemblies and re-torque lower head nuts. If any start to move at less than 18 ft/lbs as established on your clicker torque wrench ahead of time, that is evidence that all head nuts must be re-torqued, requiring the removal of upper cylinder tins, etc. If they do not move, then set torque wrench to 23 and do them from the inside out, i.e. 3* *1 2* *4
Colin
a) We'll call that good news . . . I think. At full torque, the heads may seat better over time if they are not leaking so much as to erode. Please keep an eye on exhaust blasts out between the barrels and heads.THall wrote: A) I removed the 3/4 rocker assembly. No nut movement from any of the four at 18 or 23 ft/lbs.
B) I found it curious that I did not have a push rod tube retainer wire installed? Is that an AMC head thing, or an Adrian thing?
A) After finding the lower head bolts torqued to at least 23 ft/lbs and the injectors tested to be in good shape, I thought what the hell, let's throw on my back-up fuel pump and pressure regulator. I was reading fuel pressure of about 34-35psi prior, and losing pressure very quickly after shutting down the engine. With the replacements I'm reading 30psi and it's holding pressure. Also, the leaking slowed to a single drip on the first start-up after the swap yesterday. I'll fire it up again tonight and see what happens...Amskeptic wrote:a) We'll call that good news . . . I think. At full torque, the heads may seat better over time if they are not leaking so much as to erode. Please keep an eye on exhaust blasts out between the barrels and heads.THall wrote: A) I removed the 3/4 rocker assembly. No nut movement from any of the four at 18 or 23 ft/lbs.
B) I found it curious that I did not have a push rod tube retainer wire installed? Is that an AMC head thing, or an Adrian thing?
b) That is an Adrian thing. Now then, did he glop up the push rod tubes with rtv sealant? Are they dry?
Colin
(p.s. congratulations on your initiative, your car appreciates it)
Continue attempting to contact Adrian. You need to be on-record with your symptoms. You may have accidentally removed a bad fuel pressure regulator that was not pulling back the fuel pressure at high vacuum. Kudos.THall wrote:A) After finding the lower head bolts torqued to at least 23 ft/lbs and the injectors tested to be in good shape, I thought what the hell, let's throw on my back-up fuel pump and pressure regulator. I was reading fuel pressure of about 34-35psi prior, and losing pressure very quickly after shutting down the engine. With the replacements I'm reading 30psi and it's holding pressure. Also, the leaking slowed to a single drip on the first start-up after the swap yesterday. I'll fire it up again tonight and see what happens...Amskeptic wrote:a) We'll call that good news . . . I think. At full torque, the heads may seat better over time if they are not leaking so much as to erode. Please keep an eye on exhaust blasts out between the barrels and heads.THall wrote: A) I removed the 3/4 rocker assembly. No nut movement from any of the four at 18 or 23 ft/lbs.
B) I found it curious that I did not have a push rod tube retainer wire installed? Is that an AMC head thing, or an Adrian thing?
b) That is an Adrian thing. Now then, did he glop up the push rod tubes with rtv sealant? Are they dry?
Colin
(p.s. congratulations on your initiative, your car appreciates it)
B) Yes, he applied a white sealant and they are all dry.