Itinerant Air-Cooled

From the original wording, it sounded like he split the case without removing the heads/head nuts, doesn't it?

his enterprise should be renamed 'Houdini Masters'

asiab3 wrote:From the original wording, it sounded like he split the case without removing the heads/head nuts, doesn't it?

...I swear that's what he told me. Hopefully I get clarification this week.

the miz wrote:

Amskeptic wrote: He removed the cylinder barrels with the pistons remaining inside so as not to disturb the ring break-in, yes, I do that too. But the heads, the pistons and cylinders, and the case halves all would have to be disassembled.
Colin

Thanks Colin, that makes sense. That's probably what he did...it just wasn't explained quite that way.
Miz

It is very explained at important to times all correctly.
Colin

the miz wrote:

asiab3 wrote:From the original wording, it sounded like he split the case without removing the heads/head nuts, doesn't it?

...I swear that's what he told me. Hopefully I get clarification this week.

I think, because I am of the "cross the engine head torque sequence" camp, that I am concerned:
A) that the head studs and case halves won't be _________________. (Colin, want to fill in the blank? I do not know the technical terms for what happens when the metal on the case is stressed unevenly.)
B) for bearing clearances, because one can not get a torque wrench on the main bearing nuts with the cylinders in place. (Or maybe even the case parting line hardware in this case.

Robbie

Yes, it's possible to do this but not fun. In my opinion it should be done right if you are going to split the case to change the cam. Rehone the cylinders and new rings go in. Step by step to make damn sure everything is right. Shortcuts always bite you in the ass later........

Well Adrian never said when he was gonna send me out a new injector. So, I sent out two old ones I had to Rich at Crusin Performance last Monday for cleaning and flow test. I received them back Saturday and installed both of them in #3/#4.

Same drip at #4. I don't think it's an injector issue. I also unplugged the CSV in an attempt to rule that out as an issue.

I tried to contact Adrian to ask what his thoughts are now since he believed it was a leaky injector causing the problem...no reply yet.

Amskeptic wrote: Please, do a compression test.
Colin

I did a compression test on a cold engine. I know it's recommended to warm it up first, but since the leak happens at first start-up I thought testing on a cold engine may reveal more?

#1 - 110
#2 - 110
#3 - 113
#4 - 115

THall wrote:

Amskeptic wrote: Please, do a compression test.
Colin

I did a compression test on a cold engine. I know it's recommended to warm it up first, but since the leak happens at first start-up I thought testing on a cold engine may reveal more?

#1 - 110
#2 - 110
#3 - 113
#4 - 115

Those look reasonable . . . .
Colin
(have ya had ENOUGH of diagnostics??)

Amskeptic wrote:Those look reasonable . . . .
Colin
(have ya had ENOUGH of diagnostics??)

Not until I figure out what's up with that damn leak. What next?

THall wrote:

Amskeptic wrote:Those look reasonable . . . .
Colin
(have ya had ENOUGH of diagnostics??)

Not until I figure out what's up with that damn leak. What next?

Ask Adrian for authorization to pull rocker assemblies and re-torque lower head nuts. If any start to move at less than 18 ft/lbs as established on your clicker torque wrench ahead of time, that is evidence that all head nuts must be re-torqued, requiring the removal of upper cylinder tins, etc.
If they do not move, then set torque wrench to 23 and do them from the inside out, i.e. 3* *1 2* *4
Colin

Amskeptic wrote: Ask Adrian for authorization to pull rocker assemblies and re-torque lower head nuts. If any start to move at less than 18 ft/lbs as established on your clicker torque wrench ahead of time, that is evidence that all head nuts must be re-torqued, requiring the removal of upper cylinder tins, etc. If they do not move, then set torque wrench to 23 and do them from the inside out, i.e. 3* *1 2* *4
Colin

Well to be able to ask for authorization means I'd need to speak to or receive email response from Adrian...neither of which I've been able to do in the past week.

Authorization be damned I removed the 3/4 rocker assembly. No nut movement from any of the four at 18 or 23 ft/lbs.

I found it curious that I did not have a push rod tube retainer wire installed? Is that an AMC head thing, or an Adrian thing?

THall wrote: A) I removed the 3/4 rocker assembly. No nut movement from any of the four at 18 or 23 ft/lbs.

B) I found it curious that I did not have a push rod tube retainer wire installed? Is that an AMC head thing, or an Adrian thing?

a) We'll call that good news . . . I think. At full torque, the heads may seat better over time if they are not leaking so much as to erode. Please keep an eye on exhaust blasts out between the barrels and heads.

b) That is an Adrian thing. Now then, did he glop up the push rod tubes with rtv sealant? Are they dry?
Colin
(p.s. congratulations on your initiative, your car appreciates it)

Amskeptic wrote:

THall wrote: A) I removed the 3/4 rocker assembly. No nut movement from any of the four at 18 or 23 ft/lbs.

B) I found it curious that I did not have a push rod tube retainer wire installed? Is that an AMC head thing, or an Adrian thing?

a) We'll call that good news . . . I think. At full torque, the heads may seat better over time if they are not leaking so much as to erode. Please keep an eye on exhaust blasts out between the barrels and heads.

b) That is an Adrian thing. Now then, did he glop up the push rod tubes with rtv sealant? Are they dry?
Colin
(p.s. congratulations on your initiative, your car appreciates it)

A) After finding the lower head bolts torqued to at least 23 ft/lbs and the injectors tested to be in good shape, I thought what the hell, let's throw on my back-up fuel pump and pressure regulator. I was reading fuel pressure of about 34-35psi prior, and losing pressure very quickly after shutting down the engine. With the replacements I'm reading 30psi and it's holding pressure. Also, the leaking slowed to a single drip on the first start-up after the swap yesterday. I'll fire it up again tonight and see what happens...

B) Yes, he applied a white sealant and they are all dry.

THall wrote:

Amskeptic wrote:

THall wrote: A) I removed the 3/4 rocker assembly. No nut movement from any of the four at 18 or 23 ft/lbs.

B) I found it curious that I did not have a push rod tube retainer wire installed? Is that an AMC head thing, or an Adrian thing?

a) We'll call that good news . . . I think. At full torque, the heads may seat better over time if they are not leaking so much as to erode. Please keep an eye on exhaust blasts out between the barrels and heads.

b) That is an Adrian thing. Now then, did he glop up the push rod tubes with rtv sealant? Are they dry?
Colin
(p.s. congratulations on your initiative, your car appreciates it)

A) After finding the lower head bolts torqued to at least 23 ft/lbs and the injectors tested to be in good shape, I thought what the hell, let's throw on my back-up fuel pump and pressure regulator. I was reading fuel pressure of about 34-35psi prior, and losing pressure very quickly after shutting down the engine. With the replacements I'm reading 30psi and it's holding pressure. Also, the leaking slowed to a single drip on the first start-up after the swap yesterday. I'll fire it up again tonight and see what happens...

B) Yes, he applied a white sealant and they are all dry.

Continue attempting to contact Adrian. You need to be on-record with your symptoms. You may have accidentally removed a bad fuel pressure regulator that was not pulling back the fuel pressure at high vacuum. Kudos.
Colin