Itinerant Air-Cooled

Bleyseng wrote:The caulky stuff should be the sealant Raby uses which works pretty good. The twisting method is when you install the pushrod tubes when inserting them into the case and seating them home into the head. Rotate the tubes 90' so not to pinch the O rings and seat them in as they kind of suck into place.

...yeah, it doesn't seem to work as well when Adrian uses it...or maybe it is just not a sub for proper Viton push rod tube seals. Also, the new (Brazilian?) push rod tubes are pretty flimsy, I plan to replace them with the originals scavenged from my old engine at some point. I now understand what you mean on the rotating...I misunderstood and was hoping to rotate to a spot where the O-ring would seat/seal and the leak would slow/stop.
As mentioned, the big problem, currently, is the mega leaky valve cover.

Thanks again,
miz

the miz wrote:

Bleyseng wrote:The caulky stuff should be the sealant Raby uses which works pretty good.

...yeah, it doesn't seem to work as well when Adrian uses it...or maybe it is just not a sub for proper Viton push rod tube seals. Also, the new (Brazilian?) push rod tubes are pretty flimsy,

Thanks again,
miz

Weird, I wonder why?


Timcan'tbelievesomeofthethingsIfindinmyHFMrebuild

Like I said, rotate as you install the tubes to avoid the pinched O ring like in the picture.

Yeah, that's what happens with those green seals that come on the build, I don't seem to have that problem with the tan/puce ones.
miz

the miz wrote:Yeah, that's what happens with those green seals that come on the build, I don't seem to have that problem with the tan/puce ones.
miz

Good to know, I got a set of viton replacements from Bus Depot for the partial rebuild of the HFM rebuilt.

Tim

MountainPrana wrote: Timcan'tbelievesomeofthethingsIfindinmyHFMrebuild

Wait. That green hernia is from your engine? It is a HFM engine?
Colin

Amskeptic wrote:

MountainPrana wrote: Timcan'tbelievesomeofthethingsIfindinmyHFMrebuild

Wait. That green hernia is from your engine? It is a HFM engine?
Colin

Yup... I am meaning to put together a list of all the Hugely Flawed Migraines that I've found so far and add it to the Hold Off On Headflow Masters Engines thread... but I keep finding more things to fix.

Tim

MountainPrana wrote: Good to know, I got a set of viton replacements from Bus Depot for the partial rebuild of the HFM rebuilt.

Tim

Yeah, those BD seals coupled with my old/stock push rod tubes are the trick. I also don't think you need that silver schmuck...or any sealant really...it's only the ones with green seals and silver schmuck all over that leak!

MountainPrana wrote: Yup... I am meaning to put together a list of all the Hugely Flawed Migraines that I've found so far and add it to the Hold Off On Headflow Masters Engines thread... but I keep finding more things to fix.

Tim

...ooh, good one, Tim...I was thinking Huge F$#king Mess...but migraines have happened as a result...Heartbreaking Failure Machine?
miz

Ok, so I think I have narrowed the oils leaks down to 1 super slow drip on the 1-2 valve cover...it must be that the cover is bent, since I've replaced the gasket. At any rate the leakage has slowed to the point where it is ok to drive...so I did! I took Vana out for a 30 min spin last night and then decided to drive her to work today! She seems to be running pretty strong and heck, its the first time she's moved under her own power in 10 months or so.

One thing I did notice: at low RPMs, like at idle after a cold start, the battery light gives a faint glow...it wanes with higher RPMs and is absent when then engine is under load (i.e.: driving). This seems odd to me...could something suddenly be up with the alternator?

Right now the problem doesn't seem bad enough to keep me from driving.

...stay tuned for the 100mi. oil change.

-miz

Huge congratulations on finally getting to drive your bus again. I'll hope your trips to and from work are eventless. Man, you've been through the ringer with this!

Alt/dash light: it is probably a diode going bad...keep driving until convenient time to dismantle or take to equiv. of jivermos' rasta-rebuild guy

the miz wrote:I took Vana out for a 30 min spin last night and then decided to drive her to work today! She seems to be running pretty strong and heck, its the first time she's moved under her own power in 10 months or so.

This is such good news! Glad to hear things are going in the right direction.

the miz wrote:One thing I did notice: at low RPMs, like at idle after a cold start, the battery light gives a faint glow...it wanes with higher RPMs and is absent when then engine is under load (i.e.: driving).

If you push down on the belt midway between the alternator and the pulley with firm pressure how much does it flex (deflection)? Mine came back on the loose side.

Tim

MountainPrana wrote: This is such good news! Glad to hear things are going in the right direction.
If you push down on the belt midway between the alternator and the pulley with firm pressure how much does it flex (deflection)? Mine came back on the loose side.Tim

Thanks, Tim...that's a good suggestion...which had occurred to me...I just haven't checked tension yet. I'll do that.

dingo wrote: Alt/dash light: it is probably a diode going bad...keep driving until convenient time to dismantle or take to equiv. of jivermos' rasta-rebuild guy

...good point, but it is basically a "new" alternator...<2000mi. on it. Luckily I have a spare from my old engine...and have seen a spot like Jivermo's Rasta-man in North Minneapolis...

Thanks for the input!

miz

phaedrus76 wrote:Huge congratulations on finally getting to drive your bus again. I'll hope your trips to and from work are eventless. Man, you've been through the ringer with this!

Thanks! ...looks like I'll actually get to bring my bus to the IAC party during Colin's visit this year!

miz